Sanded through clear coat

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
37
Location
FL
Well on my 2014 tundra I had some pretty good rocker panel chips due to my offroad tires. I though that I might build up the touch up paint and then wet sand lightly down blend and polish. I new the risk but being at the very bottom of truck I thought i'd try. Long story short, I just barely went through the clear. Question is will the clear possibly peel from this area or will it be fine. Cosmetically one really has to look for it to see it. About a fingernail in size. Thanks.
 
Great question. My angle is this - do rock chips cause the clear to peel? I'd Argue no.

And a rock ship would be a ragged but hard/vertical edge.

If it's so tiny, I might try brushing a bit on from a touch up paint that comes with clear. That will be more prone to peel than the or stuff, IMO, but it may also keep things from oxidizing.

Another option is to find a sealant that cross links with itself, and maintain a to. Of coats on there. The spot is small enough it would take no time.
 
Lawnman -

How about getting clearbra installed on the rockerline and below.

I'm not a fan of PPF on the hood/doors, pillars, etc. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise - PPF is porus and does yellow/suck in grime.

However, depending on the bodystyle of the cars, I always have some level of PPF below the rocker line. It helps alot with the grime/debris that get's kicked up.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Can you airbrush on some clear coat over the section you sanded?

This is typically how it's fixed.


I was wondering if that works well or not. I buffed through the clear on my truck in one small spot low down on the rear fender and was thinking this might be the best way to fix it.
 
A good "airbrush" tech can do the job without sanding or buffing.

The way I do it, is to use a thin mix of clear coat, (a healthy bit of reducer, and apply light coats. No masking. Concentrating on the spot in question and feathering the edges. The edges will look frosty.

I let it skim over, then spray reducer over the top to wet it out.

This lets the paint "flow" into a smooth layer. The "overspray" at the edges smooth out into a nice gloss. If done correctly, it's nearly impossible to see.
 
Just clean it well, use some prepsol or IPA, scuff it lightly with 800 and spray a couple of coats of 2K clear out of a rattle can over the area.
The only downside is the clear once mixed has a short 2 day or less pot life, use it up or toss it when your done. It gives a nice finish on wood so think of anything else you might want to clear coat before using it.

Don't worry about a little over spray, you can sand it down the next day and buff it.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospray-high-gloss-clear.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043B7UQY?*Version*=1&*entries*=0
 
Last edited:
You can go to your local auto paint mixer and buy a high quality clear in a spray can.

Hit it with that and then buff it with some compound and no one will ever know.

I've fixed the lips in my wheel wells multiple times like this and no one can ever tell.
 
Originally Posted By: chefwong
Lawnman -

How about getting clearbra installed on the rockerline and below.

I'm not a fan of PPF on the hood/doors, pillars, etc. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise - PPF is porus and does yellow/suck in grime.

However, depending on the bodystyle of the cars, I always have some level of PPF below the rocker line. It helps alot with the grime/debris that get's kicked up.


Whatever you wind up doing, PPF is a good idea. It solves your initial problem.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top