Fix or cut losses advice.

[Hollow]

Vehicle in question: 1992 Oldsmobile 88 Royale base model. Just shy of 80,000 original miles. I am the second owner of it, first was my wife's grandmother. This vehicle was rather neglected as it was bought new by a 70 year old widow in 1992 and we got it in December of 2014.

Known and current issues:
-Missing front bumper (from accident #4 that resulted in the state finally revoking the elderly driver's license)
-Shocks and struts are shot.
-Bad camshaft sensor and/or interrupter magnet.
-Something messed up in ABS system, I've just pulled the fuse right now.
-Sporadic issue with driver's front brake dragging, not sure if a caliper is going bad or related to the larger ABS issue.
-Parking brake does not work.
-AC does not work.

Since December, I have replaced the radiator(cracked), valve cover gaskets(bleeding oil everywhere), plugs, wires, air filter, oil changes, 4 new tires, and rear brake system(drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and all due to brake fluid leak). I got the car for free, and have put parts and service into it nearing its book value.

For the most part the engine (except for that bad sensor) and transmission are solid, but the rest of the car feels like it is about to fall apart around them.

Currently, due to new job I really don't have the daylight hours/place to work on vehicle to address anything related to the brakes or the cam sensor, and I'll have to take it to a mechanic to get it done.

We're not planning on keeping this car forever, it was a "we just moved home, we're unemployed, and need a way to get to get around and we're super broke" deal. It's always cheaper to fix than buy, and our budget is extremely limited as my wife's job is minimum wage and inconsistent hours. Mine is a bit better, but we're still nowhere near middle class...more like "we can probably pay our bills this month as long as we don't go out to eat any" class.

Thoughts? I'm starting to think the Olds is going to nickel and dime us pretty bad, but something more reliable is going to take our entire savings account to purchase, and that makes me nervous.

 

[DemoFly]

Sounds totaled past almost 6 times the value of the car to me.

This scenario doesn't seem cheaper to repair. You can get a very decent Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic for $4000.

 

[Quest]

let it go.

It's not worth your while no matter how much (money, time, effort, etc.) you try to put into this heap keeping it fundamentally road-worthy.

At the end of the day: the car once serious money pit. You'd be better off either cutting the loss and get something fundamentally more reliable, ride the transit or even riding a bicycle.

Q.

 

[BurrWinder]

Originally Posted By: Hollow
Vehicle in question: 1992 Oldsmobile 88 Royale base model. Just shy of 80,000 original miles. I am the second owner of it, first was my wife's grandmother. This vehicle was rather neglected as it was bought new by a 70 year old widow in 1992 and we got it in December of 2014.

Known and current issues:
-Missing front bumper (from accident #4 that resulted in the state finally revoking the elderly driver's license)
-Shocks and struts are shot.
-Bad camshaft sensor and/or interrupter magnet.
-Something messed up in ABS system, I've just pulled the fuse right now.
-Sporadic issue with driver's front brake dragging, not sure if a caliper is going bad or related to the larger ABS issue.
-Parking brake does not work.
-AC does not work.

Since December, I have replaced the radiator(cracked), valve cover gaskets(bleeding oil everywhere), plugs, wires, air filter, oil changes, 4 new tires, and rear brake system(drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and all due to brake fluid leak). I got the car for free, and have put parts and service into it nearing its book value.

For the most part the engine (except for that bad sensor) and transmission are solid, but the rest of the car feels like it is about to fall apart around them.

Currently, due to new job I really don't have the daylight hours/place to work on vehicle to address anything related to the brakes or the cam sensor, and I'll have to take it to a mechanic to get it done.

We're not planning on keeping this car forever, it was a "we just moved home, we're unemployed, and need a way to get to get around and we're super broke" deal. It's always cheaper to fix than buy, and our budget is extremely limited as my wife's job is minimum wage and inconsistent hours. Mine is a bit better, but we're still nowhere near middle class...more like "we can probably pay our bills this month as long as we don't go out to eat any" class.

Thoughts? I'm starting to think the Olds is going to nickel and dime us pretty bad, but something more reliable is going to take our entire savings account to purchase, and that makes me nervous.


Alot of pattern failures there on that car.. It is too old for the repairs needed and yes, you are right it will nickel and dime you... or bigger denominations of money.. to death !!

BurrWinder

 

[Hollow]

I had hoped to have a good bit more time to save up for a replacement. Between our rent, insurance, and my student loans we're just breaking even a month. Around me, finding a car that I won't need to sink $1000 or service or repair into after buying it is a solid $5000....which it about the entirety of our bank account.

Might just see if I can get the Olds to limp along for another few months and if it blows up or catches on fire (based on how the brakes smell half the time) I'll start walking to work again.

Might see if any of the mechs I know would want it. With some time and cheap parts, it could be reliable again. I just don't have the time to work on it while working 60 hour weeks.

 

[dishdude]

Well now hold on, if money is tight the bare necessities of this car can be fixed to keep it on the road pretty cheap.

All I really see that is necessary is a caliper and/or hose, and cam sensor. Parts are cheap if you can do it yourself.

 

[Hollow]

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Parts are cheap if you can do it yourself.


That would be the issue right there, as I posted above.

 

[Quest]

If walking to work is a non-issue, then by all means: do it.

If travelling to work is a must, provided that it's a short distance away in low speed environment, a moped or similar would be a good fit.

Otherwise: don't get tied into a money pit.

case to the point: my B-I-L is currently tied to a money pit: this Mazda MPV is reaping up the mileage, and with his ignorance (in terms of maintenance, doesn't even check oil or coolant, etc.), water pump bearing failure lead to coolant leak, which has already slightly "fried" it's head (burning a bit of coolant after the problem was fixed about 1 yr ago, by yours truly w/ a chinese Gates wp); then front wheel bearing on the left frt side at the brink of going away (excessive hub to bearing wobble, almost to the point of wheel falling off the car, literally!!!); Lower control arm LCA bushings were shot on both sides, and the mech charged him an arm and a leg to service all 3 of them.

Out of the luv of my heart: I already helped him save money by replacing his struts and shocks (rear shocks gone, van bouncing all over the place during rainy days), and now most recent scheduled tune up indicated that the Head gasket is a bit blown (plug shown white'ish on his V6 duratec engine.

Trannie is at the brink of granading, engine needs overhaul (or get a used one and then re-n-re), only thing worth keeping is the chassis, new 4 michelin tires and the suspension.

Estimate service cost to keep this van going for a few more years is about 4K (our local rate for swapping in a used duratec engine from wreckers).

I tossed in my white towel long time ago on his automobiles (which also included his previous late 90s corolla which his wife literally drove it to the ground with various CELs, etc.)

Hope you get my drift.

Q.

 

[IndyIan]

Sounds like the drivetrain is solid so I would limp it along especially if you can walk to work, actually why would you drive it if money is tight? Bikes are cheap and fast compared to walking.
Fix the brakes when you get a chance and think about a AAA membership for some cheap tows if needed.
Maybe decide if you need a car at all?

 

[user52165]

You got a car with 80K, a good engine and transmission, for free.

Keep it.

You seem to have some talent. Find the time.

Parts are cheap and this is an easy car to fix.

Those $4000 Toyotas and Hondas (that every one wants) may or may not be a good deal.

 

[SatinSilver]

Just have one thing done at a time. Once a month have something fixed. Then gradually it will be fixed up. It improves your chances of this thing running awhile. Instead of doing nothing and waiting for it to grenade. First up would probably be fixing the brake caliper. Both front calipers prob need to be cleaned and lubed.

If a major component fails like the engine or trans, then dump it.

 

[Schmoe]

A 25 year old car? With ALL that going on, PLUS the other things that will go bad due to age alone? It will be a never ending cycle. I'd say it's 4th and 20, PUNT!!!!

 

[Eddie]

Keep the car and do as user & satin suggested. Ed

 

[djb]

What are the cosmetics of the car?

All of the things listed are repairable at modest expense. And when you bolt on the replacement part, it's fixed.

But rust, dents, bad paint or a ratty interior will be a constant drag. They are generally not worth fixing, and you'll never feel that you are driving a good car.

 

[RedOakRanch]

Run, Forest, run!

 

[eljefino]

Brakes are seriously easy to fix. I bought a 32 year old car 850 miles away and the brakes started dragging on the way home. Fixed them in a Lowes Parking lot (so I could buy more tools) using the car's emergency jack, as I was never "under" it.

For a dragging brake, pull the "pins", they have bolt heads but turn into pins inside. Yours will probably need a vise grips on the head to fully get them out. See if they're corroded or if the grease is dry. There are tons of youtube how-tos on this sort of thing.

Pry the pads out. If they need prying out, they've swollen due to rust, or the bracket has swollen. Grind the "ears" on the pads down where they rub with a $10 angle grinder from harbor freight. And/or pull the "rattle clips" and chisel the rust from behind them with a flat blade screwdriver.

Put a c-clamp or huge channellock pliers on the caliper and squeeze it tight to see if the fluid goes back up the hose. If not, you have caliper, hose, or master cylinder problems.

If you have one pad that's funkier than the rest, thinner, or wedge shaped, just get a new set of $20 pads and make sure they go in smoothly by hand. You should not have to hammer them in.

Good luck! When I first married money was tight and we were trying to save for a house, like you. So I decided, hey, now's as good a time to learn how to do a cat-back exhaust, as my old one had rusted to bits.

Once having fixed the brakes, I'd clunk around in this thing and save for something nicer, like a 2000 saturn.

 

[Lubener]

If you have to take it somewhere for repairs or if the body is poor, forget it. If the body is good,a DIYer could address the more serious issues. I would forget about the bumper, shocks/struts and the a/c. Fix brake related issues and sensor. You need to steer and brake well. If you can find time to address and get another year out of it, the money spent would be less than the sales tax on a used $5k vehicle and make it worthwhile..

 

[mongo161]

Hard to tell without seeing the vehicle.

 

[Hollow]

Originally Posted By: djb
What are the cosmetics of the car?

All of the things listed are repairable at modest expense. And when you bolt on the replacement part, it's fixed.

But rust, dents, bad paint or a ratty interior will be a constant drag. They are generally not worth fixing, and you'll never feel that you are driving a good car.


Front bumper missing, passenger mirror unpainted replacement, headliner tacked up, interior stained from many spilled cups of grandma's coffee, minor dents and dings throughout. Minimal rust in this part of the state, not structural only cosmetic. I'm probably forgetting something.

 

[Ga129]

Originally Posted By: Lubener
If you have to take it somewhere for repairs or if the body is poor, forget it. If the body is good,a DIYer could address the more serious issues. I would forget about the bumper, shocks/struts and the a/c. Fix brake related issues and sensor. You need to steer and brake well. If you can find time to address and get another year out of it, the money spent would be less than the sales tax on a used $5k vehicle and make it worthwhile..


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