Oil recommendation for cbr900rr track bike

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As above what oil would you guys recommend I run in my 1996 cbr900rr. The bike is solely track use only. Oil changed every. 3rd day

Currently using motul 5100 10w40. But I have noticed that on hard runs its using a little

Looking for good protection and value as I'm changing quite frequently
 
Depending on your bank account I recommend either $5.40 a quart Mobil 1 5w30 API SN
because it was ranked #10 out of 156 oils tested for wear protection by 540Rat... or
ranked #4 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T synthetic Motorcycle specific about $14.25 per bottle.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

$(KGrHqFHJFQFH+3bLSKwBSF(pTTTDg~~60_57.JPG


0000-Motul-300V-Ester-Synthetic-Oil---.jpg



Savoy racers choose 30w because it gives the right flow at the normal engine operating
temperature of 212ºF and that would be the viscosity of 10 at operating temps... so that
means for every 1000 rpms increase your oil pressure increases another 10 psi... a 30w
flows more oil at higher rpms which flows more oil between the critical bearings
which carries away more heat and you're not wasting HP just pumping oil through the blow
off valve...

30w psi
1000 10
2000 20
3000 30
4000 40
5000 50
6000 60
7000 70
8000 80
9000 90
10000 99
11000 99 blow off by the pressure relief valve

40w psi
1000 12
2000 24
3000 36
4000 48
5000 72
6000 84
7000 96
8000 99 blow off by the pressure relief valve
9000 99
10000 99
11000 99

50w psi
1000 15
2000 30
3000 45
4000 60
5000 75
6000 90
7000 99 blow off by the pressure relief valve
8000 99
9000 99
10000 99
11000 99

You see I just don't talk... I went to trouble to installed a digital
oil pressure gauge on MrRC45 to know... 30w at 8000 rpms 82 Psi close
enough to perfect...

MrRC45Oil85Psi.jpg


The same 30w at 203F Oil flowing 10 psi perfect
RC45Coolant203FOil10.jpg



The choice is yours, but choosing a 30w over a 40w is smarter because it will:

1)increase 2 to 3 HP at the rear wheel
2)quicken the throttle response coming out of the corners...
3)decrease over all operating temps...
4)increase the oil flow at the critical bearings...

Any one of 30w 100% synthetic motorcycle specific or car oils will meet
and exceed both your racing and mileage expectations...

Quote 540Rat
SECTION 2 – MOTOR OIL VISCOSITY SELECTION

THE BENEFITS OF USING THINNER OIL:

• Thinner oil flows quicker at cold start-up to begin lubricating
critical engine components much more quickly than thicker oil can.
Most engine wear takes place during cold start-up before oil flow can
reach all the components. So, quicker flowing thinner oil will help
reduce start-up engine wear, which is actually reducing wear overall.

• The more free flowing thinner oil at cold start-up, is also much
less likely to cause the oil filter bypass to open up, compared to
thicker oil. Of course if the bypass opened up, that would allow
unfiltered oil to be pumped through the engine. The colder the ambient
temperature, and the more rpm used when the engine is cold, the more
important this becomes.

• Thinner oil also flows more at normal operating temperatures. And
oil FLOW is lubrication, but oil pressure is NOT lubrication. Oil
pressure is only a measurement of resistance to flow. Running thicker
oil just to up the oil pressure is the wrong thing to do, because that
only reduces oil flow/lubrication. Oil pressure in and of itself, is
NOT what we are after.

• The more free flowing thinner oil will also drain back to the oil
pan quicker than thicker oil. So, thinner oil can help maintain a
higher oil level in the oil pan during operation, which keeps the oil
pump pickup from possibly sucking air during braking and cornering.

• The old rule of thumb that we should have at least 10 psi for every
1,000 rpm is perfectly fine. Running thicker oil to achieve more
pressure than that, will simply reduce oil flow for no good reason. It
is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain at
least the rule of thumb oil pressure. And one of the benefits of
running a high volume oil pump, is that it will allow us to enjoy all
the benefits of running thinner oil, while still maintaining
sufficient oil pressure. A high volume oil pump/thinner oil combo is
preferred over running a standard volume oil pump/thicker oil combo.
Because oil “flow” is our goal for ideal oiling, NOT simply high oil
pressure.

• Oil flow is what carries heat away from internal engine components.
Those engine components are DIRECTLY oil cooled, but only INdirectly
water cooled. And better flowing thinner oil will keep critical engine
components cooler because it carries heat away faster. If you run
thicker oil than needed, you will drive up engine component temps. For
example: Plain bearings, such as rod and main bearings are lubricated
by oil flow, not by oil pressure. Oil pressure is NOT what keeps these
parts separated. Oil pressure serves only to supply the oil to this
interface. The parts are kept apart by the incompressible hydrodynamic
liquid oil wedge that is formed as the liquid oil is pulled in between
the spinning parts. As long as sufficient oil is supplied, no wear can
occur. In addition to this, the flow of oil through the bearings is
what cools them.

Quote Gmtech94

When I raced we were sponsored by an oil company and helped with the
research of their product .The thought at the time was to run 20w50
race oil to provide for the best lubrication under racing conditions
hence no oil related failures . After many races and a lot of real
data research the conclusion was in this case to run a 10w30 oil as it
provided better lubrication and less engine wear over a long period of
time ,remember endurance racing in 24 and 30 hour races . Although we
never had an engine failure due to oil properties we did have a lot of
feedback on engine wear as well as transmission and clutch wear . I
have to say we did abuse these bikes on occasion with spinning the
back wheel to turn the bike as well as the occasional fall .The
ignition was a weak link but I could change out the pulsers in about
17 seconds once the bike was in the pits . In conclusion 10w30 ran
cooler and did not break down as much as the thicker oils did.
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Originally Posted By: Shannow
OP, read the above very very carefully...then ignore it.


+1


Add me to the list.

He's learned to copy and paste. Mustn't be anything to sweep up
 
I am disappointed that there are so many people that are disparaging Larry for his post. His information is objective and reproducible. He has years of knowledge on the subject at hand. Even if you don't agree with his information I would expect he be shown respect for his effort to share information. I thought that was the intention of this forum.

Dave
 
great info busy.
there are a couple of ???'s in the back of my mind which stop me from using 10-40. I have been using FS 10-50 all the time instead of 10-30 recommended by honda

what happens to oil degradation and loss of VI over time. say for a FS oil (like motule or mobil) after 6000 miles, starting with 10-40 or 10-50?

what is 10-60 recommended for off road bikes?

how does thinner oil affect gear change and oil consumption?
 
Originally Posted By: DrDave
I am disappointed that there are so many people that are disparaging Larry for his post. His information is objective and reproducible. He has years of knowledge on the subject at hand. Even if you don't agree with his information I would expect he be shown respect for his effort to share information. I thought that was the intention of this forum.

Dave


Dave,
I have tried to explain to Larry in many many many threads that there are errors in his information.

Then every opportunity, he wheels out exactly the same post... verbatum ... the majority of which is 540Rat's (flawed) logic.

Soon we will see the difference in synthetic versus mineral oil molecules, with a picture of the refining process, and yet another picture of a plank struggling to roll over different sized balls that are supposed to represent oil molecules.
 
OK, so as to not be disparaging, the following are repeatable facts.

Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
a 30w
flows more oil at higher rpms which flows more oil between the critical bearings
which carries away more heat and you're not wasting HP just pumping oil through the blow
off valve...

30w psi

6000 60
7000 70

40w psi

6000 84
7000 96

50w psi

6000 90
7000 99 blow off by the pressure relief valve


I've asked the following question before, and it DOES require critical thinking...I've not been answered yet, just accused of being on the take.

At 6,900 RPM, which oil is providing greater cooling flow to the pistons ?

A tiny bit of engineering/physics will get you past the post...and it's not the 30W(sic)
 
Would it be the 40w? And it would seem we would need to know the psi threshold that the bypass valve uses which would vary by brand and engine (?...) <----- wild guess by loneranger :~)
 
Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
Would it be the 40w? And it would seem we would need to know the psi threshold that the bypass valve uses which would vary by brand and engine (?...) div>


Reasoning's there, the one with the highest oil pressure at operating temperature will provide the greatest flow to the squirters.

As you say, if there's a pop-off valve in the squirter line, the pressure must be reduced by that pressure as well...
If there's no pop off, then Larry's 50W is flowing about 20% more piston cooling flow than his 30. If there's a 20psi pop off (just a number), then the 50W is flowing 25% more piston cooling flow than the 30...at 6,900RPM.

That's pretty significant, and certainly doesn't gell with the quoted "facts".

As to bearings, they are supplied by the pressurised galleries, and only draw off that which they need to replace side leakage, the result of that is oil pressure. Less side leakage, less replacement volume required, and the backpressure rises, increasing your oil pressure.

Lubrication is NOT jamming a pump's worth of volume through the bearings, just so you can say that the relief (pressure control valve) is closed.
 
This stuff hopelessly confuses me. So which weight would give the bearings on the big ends of the connecting rods (at crankshaft) the best lubrication, probably 50W since it generally has a higher HTHS (film strength) than 40? That is the critical lubrication area in the big twin that my Ducati has.... the bearing where the big end of the rod goes on the crankshaft.

The Ducati master tech advised me to run 15W50 because of those bearings and because the gears see less wear when using 50W rather than 40 in these bikes.
 
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