Leaking coolant from trans cooler holes at bottom

[ryanschillinger]

This would indicate that I need to replace the radiator, right? My truck is manual transmission, so I don't use the trans cooler. Obviously shouldn't be leaking out of the holes. I'm going to try plugging them with Teflon tape and a couple bolts for now, but figure I need a new radiator. Sound right?

 

[HerrStig]

You could just run a hunk of hose between them for now. If you use screw type hose clamps, don't lean on the screws, those little connections are not very sturdy. If they are threaded holes, the bolts will work if you get the right thread.

 

[Astro14]

Sounds right to me...

When you get to the replacement stage, there are some good aftermarket radiators and some bad...I don't know what brands are good in the Ford (and I take it that we're discussing the 1967 Ford in your signature), but hopefully some BITOGers have experience with this...my experience with older Fords, including my 1970 Fairlane with a 302, is that some aftermarket brands have only two rows, so while they bolt in, they don't manage heat well. A three row core is much better...it pays to shop around...

 

[ryanschillinger]

I should have mentioned the application, but it's my 67 f250. I know someone who is an authorized retailer for some brand of aluminum radiators. All welded. I can get a 2 row for something like $180 with warranty brand new. Since my truck doesn't have air conditioning or performance upgrades, he said the 2 row would work fine. Should I ask how much more a 3 or 4 row would cost me? The holes are threaded so in going to see if I can seal them up with bolts for now...

 

[Astro14]

I don't know how hot it gets in your part of California - or how hard you use the truck, but 2 rows might be OK in aluminum (which has good transfer) in your use. I would defer to the guy with experience...

 

[ryanschillinger]

Yeah he said 2 row for my truck is just fine. I'll be ordering one soon.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Originally Posted By: ryanschillinger
I should have mentioned the application, but it's my 67 f250. I know someone who is an authorized retailer for some brand of aluminum radiators. All welded. I can get a 2 row for something like $180 with warranty brand new. Since my truck doesn't have air conditioning or performance upgrades, he said the 2 row would work fine. Should I ask how much more a 3 or 4 row would cost me? The holes are threaded so in going to see if I can seal them up with bolts for now...


The aluminum performance radiators like Griffin and Be Cool have 1-inch or 1.25-inch tubes, so a 2-row would be as thick as a traditional 3-4 row radiator. They go for about three times the price you quoted, though.

 

[ryanschillinger]

I'm going with champion radiator. They're here in California all welded aluminum and warrantied. I'll have it tomorrow. Should be "cool". See what I did there?

 

[jr047]

I think you will enjoy it. My El Camino was built with a 305 and a 3-row copper/brass radiator that eventually deteriorated, and over time it became impossible to find a new one like that, without spending several hundred dollars, so I ended up with the one-row aluminum/plastic replacement that's purported to be an exact substitute.

With the new 350, I never was happy with the aluminum/plastic stock replacement (never overheated, but ran a little warmer than I like), so I found an all-aluminum radiator with two 1" rows. I forget where I found it, but it cost about 1/3 of the big name brands, and I've been very happy with it. It runs cooler than with the aluminum/plastic "stock" joke of a replacement, even when it's 105 F with the A/C on. The hottest I ever see on the gauge is about the point where the thermostat is fully open (210 or so F; I use a 195 F 'stat), so the radiator's able to handle all weather and whatever I ask the engine to do.

The best part is, it fit in the same radiator shroud, so I didn't have to modify anything at all. Pretty good deal for a noticeable performance improvement without having to hack anything.

 

[ryanschillinger]

That's what the champion 2 row construction sounds like. And yeah, they're under $200 which is great! I hope I'm happy after installation.

 

[asand1]

Is the coolant leaking from around the fittings, or through the disconnected nipples? A hose wont work if the leak is from the fitting/tank seal. With a plastic radiator tank, there is an o-ring that seals the heat exchanger to the tank, holding in the coolant. On a '67 F250 I assume it is all metal, and the exchanger should be soldered/brazed.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: asand1
Is the coolant leaking from around the fittings, or through the disconnected nipples? A hose wont work if the leak is from the fitting/tank seal. With a plastic radiator tank, there is an o-ring that seals the heat exchanger to the tank, holding in the coolant. On a '67 F250 I assume it is all metal, and the exchanger should be soldered/brazed.

The assumption (always dangerous) was a leak in the coil inside the radiator.

 

[ryanschillinger]

I also thought that was where it was leaking from at first. After climbing underneath, I saw it was leaking from a small crack next to the hole. So the bottom tank has a crack, not the cooler lines. I bought an aluminum Champion radiator already. It's in the garage. I hope to have time after work today to install it. I'm going to flush the system out better this time and I already have 2.5 gallons of distilled water and a couple gallons of coolant. Should be good to go after that!