M1 0w40, 5,500mi, '15 Civic Si

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wi11iam

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Some additional notes:

- Frequent pulls to redline on this sample
- 50 / 50 city / highway miles
- OLM was at 30% when this oil was changed
- Previous 2 UOAs were with M1 0w30 AFE, 1st UOA was with M1 0w20 AFE
- Filled the car back up with Castrol Edge 0w40 (black bottle). Will be interested to see how it stacks up vs. the M1 0w40

dXLnWYC.png


At this point, UOAs on this car will be more of a hobby / for my interest than necessity, as I don't plan on extending OCIs that much more. It's very easy for me to simply remember to change the oil every 5k miles. My engine seems to be liking it as well. Reason for me moving up to a 0w40 was because the gearing in this car is extremely short, and i am often times hovering around 3500-4000 rpms on the highway for extended periods of time...I am satisfied with the 0w40, as my engine runs a bit quieter + I have seen no change in MPG at all. Curious to hear other opinions, and ready for the thin weight oil gang to attack me
grin.gif
 
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Running the MM to AT LEAST 15% is not considered an extended interval. With this oil, you could very easily run it to 0% (and I'd guess a lot longer.)

What's easier than every 5k miles is simply hitting the select button a couple of time to verify the oil life remaining. Even if you forget, the display will flash a yellow wrench at you and tell you when it's due. It makes appropriate intervals almost idiot-proof.
 
I was worried about using the CE 0w-40 in a new 6.2L Ford because
as most know Ford likes you to go 5w-20
I have had many Hondas too. Did you research the use of 0W-40 or did you just go for it?
 
I'll fight you for it
smile.gif


Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
If you were my neighbour, I'd take your used oil and put it in my car for another 6,000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
I was worried about using the CE 0w-40 in a new 6.2L Ford because
as most know Ford likes you to go 5w-20
I have had many Hondas too. Did you research the use of 0W-40 or did you just go for it?


I did my research. A few years back, the same engine as mine was spec'd for a 30w oil. Now Honda specs 5w20. That paired with evidence that my motor was shearing down the 0w30 on pretty easy OCIs led me to decide on 0w40. I would do some research on your engine / application before making the switch.
 
Sad to see good oil wasted. This oil can be run up to 15k in some cars.

If you want to remember to change the oil but are uncomfortable with long OCIs I would at least run the MM down to 0%.
 
A waste of good oil, $$$, and time.... IMO

A 10 K OCI would be just as easy to remember....as 5K.

10 K OCI....with a Fram Ultra filter.....would work perfectly in your situation....and would use the oil to near its full potential, and save you time and $$$ to boot.
 
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
Sad to see good oil wasted. This oil can be run up to 15k in some cars.

If you want to remember to change the oil but are uncomfortable with long OCIs I would at least run the MM down to 0%.


From the spreadsheet this oil can be used for another 5500 miles. So the OCI should be 11,500 and then another UOA should be performed.

Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
I'll fight you for it
smile.gif


Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
If you were my neighbour, I'd take your used oil and put it in my car for another 6,000 miles.


I will give william 89 cents for this oil and he can then buy a polar pop from Circle K
 
0w-40 could be a bad choice here. The extra viscous drag internally means you lose about 1%-2% power and fuel economy, whether you notice it or not.
Honda specs 0w-20 or 0w-30, and the 0w-30 you were using was holding up, shearing down to a 20 near the end of the oil change interval, but giving you an extra margin and oil film thickness increase over using a 0w-20 to start with. Notice wear metals were about the same 0w-30 vs. 0w-40, indicating 0w-30 is all you need, no thicker. So Honda turned out to be right recommending 0w-20 or 0w-30 after all.
 
That M1 0W-40 is very stout - you could easily zero out the OLM without worry. 4000 RPM at highway speed is no big deal, it's less load than lower RPM full throttle pulls in higher gears. Thanks for posting.
 
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
 
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Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are very high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?


Spectacular post. Can you tell us that if those numbers are very high for Honda, what are acceptable numbers? And Group III is wearing out the engine faster? Really? Got something to back that up at all, or is it related to the "ridiculous" high volatility of M1 0W-40?

I mean, should I stop using it on my BMW? Will I get longer life out of my M60 engine if I do? Will I get less deposits? What Amsoil product should I use instead?

Oh, and please show us where M1 0W-40 is a "group 3 oil".
 
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?



Utterly and absolute nonsense.

I don't even know where to start with this post.

First I guess is basestocks. No where on this planet,or any other planet in our solar system do basestocks correlate with wear.
Secondly if you took the time to look mobils oils are formulated with up to 60% pao,so that cans that idea.
Amsoil and redline make a fine product however it's an absurd notion to imply that a wear reduction will occur using them.
Noack(volatility) is well below the euro spec standard,so you obviously don't have a clue about what your talking about and saying m1 0w-40 is contributing to deposits at such a short interval is more nonsense.

Essentially your entire post is complete and total tripe and utter nonsense.
I suggest spending some time listening and less time posting,unless you like looking clueless
And this extra wear nonsense is hilarious.
You ar today's winner so far.
 
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
How about it is a new engine!!!
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are very high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?


Spectacular post. Can you tell us that if those numbers are very high for Honda, what are acceptable numbers? And Group III is wearing out the engine faster? Really? Got something to back that up at all, or is it related to the "ridiculous" high volatility of M1 0W-40?

I mean, should I stop using it on my BMW? Will I get longer life out of my M60 engine if I do? Will I get less deposits? What Amsoil product should I use instead?

Oh, and please show us where M1 0W-40 is a "group 3 oil".
I can tell you this if you run Amsoil you tires will never need air in between oil changes!
 
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Blah blah blah

*snip*

Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?


Yeah, 8.8%, one of the lowest in the industry. Are you done blowing smoke? I feel like I need to pass gas now
smirk.gif
 
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