Cylinders filled with engine oil/water?

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This is a Volvo-Penta boat engine, which is just a GM Vortec 5.7 V8.

Owner brought it to us because he went to start it after it sat for 3 months, and it would no longer crank. I listened to the motor as my tech went to try to start it, and heard the notorious hollow "thunk" of the starter hitting the flywheel of a seized engine. He and I agreed that the spark plugs should be pulled and attempt another crank.

Owner gave us his complete assurances that the engine was running perfectly when he flushed it before covering it in his yard, but we can never shake the natural assumption that a boat somehow ended up with water in its engine. We just see it too darn much. Customers usually lie to us until they find out how many thousands of dollars their problem is going to cost, and then they start "remembering" details they think will help to reduce the cost of fixing their disaster.

While my tech was removing the plugs, water and a LOT of clean engine oil came pouring out of the plug holes.

Spark plugs looked like:



Cylinder #4 had it the worst, and some nice rust chunks on the end of the plug.

After cranking the engine with the plugs out, this is what more came out:



It's a bit of a dubya-tee-eff right now, that's for sure. Assume the owner is telling the truth about the engine being perfectly fine before storing it for 3 months, how could this happen?

Dipstick shows perfect oil levels in the crankcase, excluding the possibility that the engine filled with so much water that it pushed the oil up through the piston rings.

My tech is going to perform a compression test tomorrow to see if we're looking at a compromised head gasket situation. Seems like a good possibility to me, since this is going on entirely in the right hand cylinder bank. Left bank seems completely unaffected.
 
He should be so lucky.

Intake manifold is one area where the marine engines are different. They have bronze lined coolant passages to prevent the raw salt water from corroding it's way through. They're MPI engines too. No spider manifold bull.

It's going to be fun finding out.

The rust makes me think this engine might be done. 3 months of water sitting in the cylinders? Yikes.
 
My first thought would be ,corroded out exhaust risers or manifolds.From personal experience I've seem manifolds become porous with age to the point where I've stuck a screwdriver thru one with very little effort. You still could have a corroded/ broken head gasket if any work was done on the motor and a car gasket was used on a raw water cooed motor.I had my straight 6 cyl Chevy motor start missing on 1 cylinder. It turned out the head looked to be corroded in that cyl to the point the plug would fire for a while, then get encrusted in salt, then stop firing. Unless you had freezing weather when the boat was stored, there are only a few places where water could possibly leak into the motor.I'm betting it's either the riser or manifold is the culprit.,,
 
Well it might have run fine 3 months ago and during those 3 months the exhaust manifolds or risers finally rusted through. I assume it was used in salt water? FWC or RWC?
 
That's why there's different cooling systems for fresh water boats & salt water boats-it's pretty difficult to get all the salt out of a fresh water engine that's been used in salt water. I'm with the guy above-bet he's got a rusted out manifold or riser, they go bad pretty often.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Customers usually lie to us until they find out how many thousands of dollars their problem is going to cost, and then they start "remembering" details they think will help to reduce the cost of fixing their disaster.


^^Sounds about right^^

Had a customer last week who tried to get a free alignment. We had aligned his car two weeks before. He came back with a fresh paint job claiming his alignment had just mysteriously went out of wack. He finally came clean and admitted he had crashed into and ended up on top of a tree. You could see the imprint of the tree in the belly pan. The body shop had changed the strut mounts, but not the struts. One of the struts had a visible ~5° bend in it and no longer went up and down. Ended up needing struts, tie rod ends, a ball joint, and a hub/bearing assembly.
 
I was ready to toss it all onto bad risers as well, until I remembered how much engine oil came out of there. There's certainly none of that circulating through the manifolds and risers.

And, no, we don't get freezing winters in Fort Lauderdale.
wink.gif


They're going to be back onto it soon, once our recently typical all-afternoon rain quits.
 
There might be a crack in the block, or a rotted out cylinder water jacket. That would allow water to fill the oil pan with water. The oil will float on top of the water and come out where ever it could. Past the rings and into the cylinders. Usually there would be an emulsion if the oil and water were in the motor with it running. But if they left a garden hose turned on and something let loose, that could be why the oil and water aren't mixed together.Without being there and seeing it in person, it's all guess's from where I'm setting.,,,
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I was ready to toss it all onto bad risers as well, until I remembered how much engine oil came out of there. There's certainly none of that circulating through the manifolds and risers.

And, no, we don't get freezing winters in Fort Lauderdale.
wink.gif


They're going to be back onto it soon, once our recently typical all-afternoon rain quits.


The risers may have rusted out and flooded the jugs...and owner and his buddy put some oil down the holes to try and free it up. Then bring to the shop saying it was running fiie 3 months ago???
 
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Definitely not fogging oil. You would have had to break 3 fingers dispensing the amount that came out of the engine.

It passed compression test with flying colors. All within spec, 8 psi spread.

Regardless, due to the rust presence the owner has asked me to condemn the engine and perform no other work on it. Instructed to "do whatever I want with it", and is laying out a cool $19,000 for a complete engine replacement; throttle body-to-oil pan, riser-to-riser, and complete outdrive service.
 
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