12 month oils ?

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New guy to this forum, already learned a lot but didn't see this particular question.
2000 Tundra V8
68 AMC AMX
Both vehicles get less than 3,000 miles a year. I hate throwing out good oil and looking for recommendations.
Thanks
 
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welcome to the Forum!

at 3k a year you can use whatever conventional oil you want. If you want a Synthetic because you are in Minnesota, and the winters are cold i would recommend finding one that is on sale or priced low normally.

SuperTech Synthetic or QSUD come to mind. GoodLuck!

you may want to consider a SL rated oil or an oil with High Zinc/phos for the old AMC though!
 
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Originally Posted By: Inspecktor
How about pics of the AMX?

I would if I knew how.......And, I am an inspector also.
 
Originally Posted By: xracer390
New guy to this forum, already learned a lot but didn't see this particular question.
2000 Tundra V8
68 AMC AMX
Both vehicles get less than 3,000 miles a year. I hate throwing out good oil and looking for recommendations.
Thanks


Hi,

Here is my post that pertains to the subject for you. I have two vehicles that have a low yearly mileage accumulation and you can see my oil choices and intervals on those.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3812071/Re:_How_often_do_you_change_yo#Post3812071
 
Go with an HM high mileage, full synthetic oil for both old vehicles. 16 years old and 48 years old, both can use an HM oil. Like Mobil1 HM version, 5w-30 in the Tundra, and 10w-40 in the AMX.
 
If you want to change oil "often", do dino of your choice at 5k mile, ignore the time it takes to get the milage up.
 
Originally Posted By: oldhp
AMX for sale?
Isnt everything? Send a message if youd like to know more.
 
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Nice amc! If I were you, I would run synthetics even though you don't put much mileage on them. 12 months is perfect for the oci's. I have a roadmaster that's in the same situation. Supertech is fine, but right now there's some real good deals on top tier synthetics. Example- I bought pennzoil ultra platinum from amazon.com and after the $10 rebate, it comes out to the same price as supertech. So shop around. She's your baby right?- Spoil her
smile.gif
 
Found a buddy that is an Amsoil dealer. Will sell to me at cost. What do you think of this?
5-30 XL and the 15k filter for the Tundra
AMX is getting rebuilt so using their break in oil then the Z-ROD

And heres another, folks just bought a 1016 RAV-4. Dealer says drive it like you stole it and dont bring it in for 1st change till 10k Really? That could take 3 years LOL
 
If I were you I would change every year at the time of year most convenient for you and I would use a good synthetic and yes the Amsoil XL is a good synthetic. Is it better than M1 or PP likely not but no worse. Why go over a year unless you really hate changing the oil. I actually enjoy it so why not. Use a good filter like Fram Ultra. I don't buy top end filters because I think they filter that much better but because of the better construction. You could likely keep that filter on there for 2 years what with the nitrile ADBv. But again no big deal to change it once a year. Also what the other guy said buy your oil on rebate. At least once a year M1 is $12 off a 5qt jug and at my local Walmart a 5qt jug is only $25. So ya totally worth $13. Oh and Fram does $2 rebates from time to time on the $8 Fram ultra filter. As for your new Toyota if your not short tripping it often I'd totally do 12M 10K on good synthetic oils and yes run the factory fill out to that mark or don't. You likely will never know the difference. And lastly do use HM oil in the old cars as there is nothing wrong with a bit of extra seal conditioner when things get that old. M1HM.
 
I'd just go to WM and do SuperTech and an OCOD or whatever is cheaper if you're going 3k/12 months.

I think BITOG has pushed me through phases, from analyzing everything to saying so long as the oil is ASE qual. and the filter is of the regular suspects, it's fine. I'm enjoying this phase.
 
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Go with an HM high mileage, full synthetic oil for both old vehicles. 16 years old and 48 years old, both can use an HM oil. Like Mobil1 HM version, 5w-30 in the Tundra, and 10w-40 in the AMX.

I see no valid reason why he must use synthetic, but I understand why an HM oil could be beneficial...

Xracer390, I fully believe that it doesn't matter whether you use conventional, semi-syn, or full synthetic.

Buuut... Obviously you have mentioned the AMX got a rebuild - that it's gonna get Amsoil Z-Rod (which is perfect since it's made for performance classic cars); and that you have gained another vehicle, as seen here:

Originally Posted By: xracer390
Found a buddy that is an Amsoil dealer. Will sell to me at cost. What do you think of this?
5-30 XL and the 15k filter for the Tundra
AMX is getting rebuilt so using their break in oil then the Z-ROD

And heres another, folks just bought a 1016 RAV-4. Dealer says drive it like you stole it and dont bring it in for 1st change till 10k Really? That could take 3 years LOL

I think your plan for your Tundra sounds great, and I think Z-Rod for the AMX is definitely apropos.

Just, make sure you do get the correct Amsoil oil filters for these cars! You don't want to end up getting the wrong filter... that'd be a disaster.

As for your new 2016 Rav4...

Sounds like the dealer you spoke to was on meth...

My advice for any NEW or rebuilt/re-man engine is this: Don't keep the RPM's steady very much. How can one accomplish this?

Well, for the Rav4 here in question, if you have the pseudo-manual mode in your automatic transmission, it should be easy to break your engine in. Rather than "driving it like you stole it" - what you can do is this (and remember, although some things here sound contradictory, it's just how it it)...

The steps to breaking in a new engine ***When your manufacturer says to do so*** can be better explained by this:

1. Drive in manual mode, accelerating normally, but gradually increasing throttle whilst staying in the same gear, until you get beyond your comfort zone on the tachometer, then shift.

If you don't have manual mode, then just drive it harder/quicker than you normally would, and/or try to see if there is a gear select for 1st or 2nd gear on the auto's gear knob, and if so, do as you would with a manual.

2. On the highway, do not set cruise control. Do not stay at the same speed for any longer than 5 to 10 minutes. Keep varying in speeds, so that the engine will go through many different RPMs at various times.

3. This one is my favorite. Floor it! If and/or when possible, say when you are on the highway and nobody is around, stomp the pedal! Or, if you're merging onto the interstate, give her heck!

4. Most cars now-a-days don't need to be broken-in in the same manner as old cars used to need. So you don't need to overdo it, and you shouldn't worry if you haven't been doing these kinds of things. Even if you drove it like a granny from the getgo and rarely got the RPMs up, it's a 2016 car - it's going to last you sevenfold the longer than of a car from multiple decades past.

---

Now for my personal recommendation on the oil for the Rav4:

Your dealer told you not to come in to get the first oil change until 10k miles. I think that's pretty ignorant. No matter what anyone says, thinks, knows, or can prove... the fact is that a brand new engine has certain added chemicals, greases, sealants, and other misc additives FROM ASSEMBLY of the engine, and those will travel with the oil, period.

So, I would change the oil at least before 5k.

If you want to do some dirty business and trick your dealer, you could change out your oil (at whatever mileage you want, though again I recommend under 5k), and leave on the factory oil filter, so that it seems, when you go to get your "first" oil change from the dealer... it really will be the second.

~ Triton

- Edit Reason: P.S. -

P.S.

Nice looking AMX, dude.
smile.gif
 
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