Any Proven Additives for Lifter Tick?

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Cavball9

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BITOG gurus,

Make: Chevy
Model: Suburban
Trim: 1500 LT
Year: 2005
Engine: 5.3L V8 Flex Fuel (I use regular 87 gas)
Miles: 228,000
Oil: QSUD 5W-30 ~7,500 miles
Filter: Fram Ultra
State: Ohio

In the process of cleaning this thing up a bit mechanically - she's got a lot of miles but still extremely clean in & out. Replacing the 4WD encoder motor and some brake pad/rotors this weekend and I want it to sound as good as it looks & rides. When it idles for a bit, especially when the oil change is approaching, I start noticing a lifter tick. It typically subsides after I begin driving a bit, but it's still an annoyance and the only issue I'll really have left to address sans a tire monitor sensor.

I've heard people recommend all sorts of things for remedying lifter ticks, but was hoping there was some sound advice from the BITOG crowd, perhaps a safe general consensus. Not looking for the "grandpa always used this!" type of advice - hoping for the "XYZ Additive has the best reputation, reviews, results etc." I trust the opinions on this board more so than most mechanics, friends & coworkers, so I wanted to hear thoughts on the additives such as Seafoam, Chevron Techron, MMO, etc. I've never used any of these with the lube system, FYI, I'm a total newb in that regard.

Any help is much appreciated!

- CB9

242vmgl.jpg
 
It's not uncommon for the high mileage 5.3's to develop a lifter tick especially AFM models that may not have had the best of maintaining.

Use a good 5w30 syn. Or a high moly conventional like PYB.
 
Not sure - like I said - I'm pretty much a newb on engine stuff. I change my oil and that's about the extent of my engine knowledge. Had one body shop/mechanic friend say he was almost certain it was a lifter and another whom I trust, pretty much agree. It's a steady, rapid tick that speeds up when the accelerator is pressed - both in park and while driving. Like I said - typically subsides after driving a little while. Not sure the different between a piston slap and a lifter tick.

My OLM currently shows 68% oil life and there's no sound. Usually when it dips below 30%, I start noticing it after idling. When it hits 20% I notice it very often. After the oil change - very little, if any noise.
 
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
If it starts to tick at 20% I'd go ahead and change it out then. I change mine at 20% OLM and that is usually ~7500 miles.


I usually change it between 15-20% and it definitely goes away temporarily. My issue is that it starts before the 20%. I'm hoping there's something that can help clean up the lifter a bit, if that is in-fact the problem.
 
I'll just give my experience because it was real and it was solved.

My 91 318i would give a lifter tick in cold conditions only. The car had only ever seen synthetic oil since I owned it but this occurred as the engine aged, for whatever reason.

I certainly was a proponent of "do as gentle as possible of an approach first", to help avoid damage to the engine or unnecessary wear. Since I used synthetic anyway, I tried a variety of other types as well as diesel engine oils to try to get some additional cleaning. I tried using Marvel mystery oil as well as Kreen. I never had any success. Keep in mind that it was only ever really an issue in the cold weather, say below 60°.

Because I could never have any success, I finally decided that I was going to replace the lifters. However the lifters cost around $20 apiece and it was difficult to identify specifically which one it was. Since it was a dual overhead cam engine, replacing even a full set on one cylinder is expensive, particularly for a car with a lot of rust and 180,000 miles. So I took one last chance effort.

On this site there are instructions for the use of B12 Chemtool for use as an engine flush. I forget why they no longer advertise it as one of the uses of the product, but the thread is on here someplace and has good information. I put in the chemtool product, idled under no-load, and then changed the oil.

The tick went away and never returned. Even using heavy oils in what was a pretty cold winter this past year I never heard the lifter tick again.

So I would definitely recommend considering doing that if you know that it is a tick and not a slap.

I will say also that on my Chevy pick up, The selection of oil filter has made a big difference in terms of odd knocking sounds at start up. I've never had any issues at all using AC Delco or Delco gold filters door with Fram XG. Others have created instances where I would have a ticking sound at start up but I guess until the filter repressurized.
 
You can try some Amsoil motor and transmission flush right before you change the oil. That may help. I just wouldn't do it more than once or twice, however. Flushes aren't the best for bearings.

The real way to solve it is to replace the AFM lifters. The kits are reasonable. The labor is what will cost you $$$
 
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I had the same thing on my (bought new) 2003 5.3L.....

Changed from quality full synthetic 5w-30's to Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck (TDT)

Tick. Gone.

Give it a shot.
 
I was going to mention the Berryman b12 as a flush but someone already did. They recommend 1oz per quart of oil capacity. If 6 quarts you use about 6oz Berryman. Just dump the rest in the gas tank. Anyway, you pour the Berryman into a cold crankcase, start it up and keep the rpm about 1500rpm or so for 5 minutes. Then let it idle at normal idle speed for another few minutes. Don't drive the car. After a total of about 10 minutes it should be fully warmed up and ready to change the oil. I let it drain longer than normal just to make sure as much comes out as possible. Never had an issue doing this.
 
I think there's 2 schools of thought. The lifters tick because they are clogged or they are worn and so collapsing a bit.

The chemtool flush is to clean out any crud/clog and so restore oil pressure to a specific lifter/s.

Your comment "especially when the oil change is approaching" tells me though that the old oil has lost some viscosity and so some pressure will be lost in a worn lifter and may begin to collapse. If it sound like 1 lifter it may be a bad one. But if it sounds like more than 1 I think a heavier oil will shut them all up.

Because lifters are hydraulic, low oil pressure or crud/clogs can cause them to tick. If it were mine I would do a flush then go with a heavier grade. Will be much cheapr then opening the engine.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kawiguy454
I think there's 2 schools of thought. The lifters tick because they are clogged or they are worn and so collapsing a bit.

The chemtool flush is to clean out any crud/clog and so restore oil pressure to a specific lifter/s.

Your comment "especially when the oil change is approaching" tells me though that the old oil has lost some viscosity and so some pressure will be lost in a worn lifter and may begin to collapse. If it sound like 1 lifter it may be a bad one. But if it sounds like more than 1 I think a heavier oil will shut them all up.

Because lifters are hydraulic, low oil pressure or crud/clogs can cause them to tick. If it were mine I would do a flush then go with a heavier grade. Will be much cheapr then opening the engine.


^^This. If your lifters start ticking at the approach of an up and coming oil change,the oil may be getting too thin. Try one step up in viscosity.
 
My friend's 02 Tahoe has 267,000 miles and ticks badly. I added the Rislone concentrate last time we changed the oil and the tick is now gone. The tick usually comes from sludge in the oil from poor maintenance. I do not recommend anything other than a 3,000 mile oil change in these trucks. 5,000 miles would be the max and only if you know for fact the rig has been well maintained. Keep the oil clean and changed frequently and it should have minimal ticking. Rislone, MMO and Valve medic have worked well in the past if you do still have some ticking.
 
So far, I seem to have had decent luck with MMO. My tick has really quieted down over the last 3k.

Right now I am running a little under 20% in my Jeep combined with 5w40 diesel oil. Per MMO's site, if 20% is going to be used, you should go up 1+ the spec'd weight.

It is working so well, I am going to repeat the process for the next OCI.
 
You might also try Rislone Engine Treatment.

It cured a VVT problem in an '03 Nissan PathFinder.

[Sorry about the doublepost. I have had Mouser problems of late.]
 
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Appreciate all the advice/opinions. Which Rislone am I looking for? I'm seeing a few different ones on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=rislone
 
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