Extended oci in a can am maveric?

[Chris142]

Bought a 2013 maveric with only 865 miles on it. Changing the oil and filter is a major job. Must gut the interier to get to the oil filter.

Book says 5w40 and to change it every 2000 miles. I put delo synthetic 5w40 in it. The oil filter is a cartridge style but the element is about the size of a ph3600 filter cartridge. Thinking i can go longer than 2k?
Thoughts?

 

[Clevy]

When it comes to sheared sump bikes/quads and air cooled engines I stick with conventional and short intervals.

And from what I've learned with the can am spyder with the insane heat and how it shears oil no way would I extend intervals n
However the only way to know is to get it tested.

 

[Dyusik]

+1 on the short oci. At about 2k miles my tranny gets noticeably notchy and overall shoft quality goes out the window. I'm due for a change now judging by the way my foot feels the shifter. Strangely enough the 15w40 delo seems to have lasted no better than the RT6. Rotella 15w40 is my next oil.

If your filter is such a pain double up your oci on every fci. No reason for a filter not to handle 4-5k.

I haven't tried a grp 4/5 syn yet, so no comments on that.

 

[DoubleWasp]

I know it's a little out of spec, but if I were you, I would try VR1 20/50. Our oil shredding Harleys can't seem to dent this oil on 5000 mile OCI's.

 

[BobsArmory]

I tried all the HDEOs in the past but they didn't seem to hold up very well in my Yamaha Grizzly 700. Then I went to Amsoils Power Sports 0w-40 Product Code: AFFQT-EA . Shifting stayed nice for a much longer time compared to any other oil.

I don't know how long you can go with your application but I would highly recommend Amsoil Power Sports oil 0w-40

 

[Clevy]

On a known clean engine and if you can dissect a filter I see no reason why you can go 10000 miles on a filter. I'm running 10000 miles on my Harley using amsoil filters.
My Harley is highly modified. Cams,heads,dynotune.big bore kit,bigger tb etc. I'm currently using rotella conventional 15w-40 at 3000 mile intervals. I couldn't be happier with the oil and the price is tough to beat.
In my shared sump bikes the shift quality gets notchy and tight around 3000 miles on the oil so as soon as I notice the shifting is getting tight I change the oil.
In the shared sump bikes I've used everything from m1 v-twin and the 10w-40 4t oil,motorex 10w-60,amsoil v-twin in all 3 flavours,and motul 4t and 20w-50 as well as motul 10w-60/20w-60(I forget which)
Of all the synthetics I've used in the shared sump bikes I can say truthfully that only the motul retained shift quality up to 3000 miles. None of the rest lasted as long as motul,and rotella.
So in my experience rotella is the best oil for the price of all of them in regards to sheer resistance. That is an important feature when used in a shared sump bike.
It surprises me that sopus doesn't market it as a bike oil.
As has been proven with their nonsense in marketing ultra they aren't quite on the ball in that respect.
Anyway since switching all my bikes to rotella even though I've shortened the interval by half it still costs me less in maintenance then when using high priced synthetic.
Synthetics do have their merits,longer intervals being the primary one,easier pumping when cold but neither of those merits really matter in a bike since most of us aren't running short intervals or running in the winter.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: BobsArmory
I tried all the HDEOs in the past but they didn't seem to hold up very well in my Yamaha Grizzly 700. Then I went to Amsoils Power Sports 0w-40 Product Code: AFFQT-EA . Shifting stayed nice for a much longer time compared to any other oil.

I don't know how long you can go with your application but I would highly recommend Amsoil Power Sports oil 0w-40



I tried it. The yellow cap stuff. Shift quality was finished to the point that I had to stomp the gear shift to downshift and up shifting left the top of my foot with a dent from pulling up so hard with under 1500 miles on the oil. It was great hen new though but a couple of weeks of just city riding killed it.
And vii are long chains. They get cut by the gears meshing. So a 0w-anything with have significantly more vii than a 15w anything,so it's not possible that a 0w-40 will shear less than a 15w-40 when stressed in the same application. Since they are significantly fewer vii chains to break then the natural vi will remain,so it's only natural that a 15w-40 will retain its grade longer in a high shear application like a shared sump machine.
I like amsoil however of all the oils I listed that oil was among the worst in regards to shift quality retention.
I found 300+ quarts of various boutique oils at a garage sale. There was roughly 20 quarts of this particular oil. I used it only once and after my personal experience with it(I still have 10 or so quarts of it among other bike syns) yet I choose to use rotella because of its performance.
I got all that oil for 20 bucks. I needed a half ton to haul it home. I still choos to use and buy rotella even though I've got stock of amsoil.
What does that tell you.
I highly recommend AGAINST this idea. Go ahead if you want however you'll learn quick that you paid a premium for a product that won't last as long as long as a less costly alternative.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I know it's a little out of spec, but if I were you, I would try VR1 20/50. Our oil shredding Harleys can't seem to dent this oil on 5000 mile OCI's.


I've never tried this particular oil however I've yet to hear or read a bad review of it. I may try it out in my Harley.

 

[BigCahuna]

I've been using Vr-1 20/50 in my Road King for the last year or so, and I like it. It seems to stay relatively clean looking longer then other oil's I've used. There has been less then a 1/2 qt consumption in the last 4500 miles. And little to no blowby coming out the air cleaner. I do ride thru the winter mostly on Sundays with my Polar Bear group. So I'm getting ready to change the oil in the next month, and for this change I might go with Rotella t 15/40 this time.Harley recommends using their 10/40 for temps under 40f, and there will be days when it's alot colder then that so Rotella t should work. I've never had problems starting the bike after sitting in a unheated garage for a week or more with 20/50 wt in it tho. After the initial start of the day, it starts just like it was summer out. And yes it's kept on a battery tender. I've had good luck with tenders for the last 10 years or so.,,

 

[BobsArmory]

Clevy. I find it interesting that we have had such different results. Maybe this is because we are talking ATV/UTVs and you are talking about Harley motors? Was the Amsoil new stock or had it been sitting in a garage for years before you got it from the garage sale? I don't know. All I do know is that the Amsoil 0w-40 works best for the longest for me and my application. My Grizzly starts on sub zero temps and remains smooth with the Amsoil Products longer than anything else.

Since the OP is in Apple Valley, he could use the Amsoil 10w-40 ATV/UTV Motor Oil in his milder climate with less viscosity spread.

 

[Chris142]

I guess i should clarify that it does not have a shared sump. Engine and trans are seperate units with there own lubes. Trans takes 80w140 gear oil. And the engine is water cooled

 

[ironman_gq]

Not a shared sump motor so they are easier on oil but CanAm's do make a lot of heat. For the couple quarts they take and a little time I'd just follow the recommendations and change it when they want you to. Once you do a few oil changes they really aren't that bad, at least the ATV's aren't. Yes you need to remove a few body panels but they are fairly straight forward to pull off.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

I wouldn't risk it..