07 Suzuki Swift Sport 1.6 - Which Engine Oil

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Hey Guys,

1. What kind of vehicle you have - Suzuki Swift Sport 1.6 - 2007
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well recommended to use engine oil of SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM grade...
3. Where you live My country is pretty much summer all year round, and temperatures ranges from 75-100 Fahrenheit / 23-37 Celcius.
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?) Plenty of Stop & Go traffic where I live, so I get a good mix of driving pattern here, on clear roads I usually shift at 5000-7000rpm
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?) All of the above.. about 50%city 50%highway
6. Whether your car has any known problems Throw-out bearing has started to sound off a little (not screeching but can hear it turning). Drive-Shaft may need to replaced soon.

The car is 8 years old and currently have 80k miles on it. Not sure what the previous owner has put in the car, but my last oil change I was using Motul 300v 5w40.

I'm just about to the change EO in the coming weeks and looking at a cheaper alternative since I change my EO about every 3k Miles. What does BITOG suggest?

P.S. - Should I try using 5w30 (my car feels a little sluggish on the 1st gear)
 
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What oils are available in your area?

The weight of the oil isn't going to effect engine performance in a significant way. You might just want to keep doing what you're doing as far as oil choice. You can go a lot further on your oil change though. I would go 5,000-7,500 miles on a synthetic oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
What oils are available in your area?

The weight of the oil isn't going to effect engine performance in a significant way. You might just want to keep doing what you're doing as far as oil choice. You can go a lot further on your oil change though. I would go 5,000-7,500 miles on a synthetic oil.


We have quite a good amount of oils here - Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Pennzoil, Schaeffer, M1, Motul, Castrol, Liqui Moly, MPM, Kennol... There are probably more but this seems to come into mind so far..
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
What oils are available in your area?

The weight of the oil isn't going to effect engine performance in a significant way. You might just want to keep doing what you're doing as far as oil choice. You can go a lot further on your oil change though. I would go 5,000-7,500 miles on a synthetic oil.


+1

Replacing Motul synthetics after 3K mi appears too short an OCI in OP's circumstances.

OP, btw what's the engine oil viscosity grade recommended in the owner manual ?
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
What oils are available in your area?

The weight of the oil isn't going to effect engine performance in a significant way. You might just want to keep doing what you're doing as far as oil choice. You can go a lot further on your oil change though. I would go 5,000-7,500 miles on a synthetic oil.


+1

Replacing Motul synthetics after 3K mi appears too short an OCI in OP's circumstances.

OP, btw what's the engine oil viscosity grade recommended in the owner manual ?
wink.gif



Thanks for the good replies, I will keep the current oil in the engine for another 2k miles
smile.gif

But never too early to plan on what the next EO to use (hoping for sales!)

By the way, here is what is inside the manual.

tGq94Zl.jpg
 
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Originally Posted By: Effer
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
What oils are available in your area?

The weight of the oil isn't going to effect engine performance in a significant way. You might just want to keep doing what you're doing as far as oil choice. You can go a lot further on your oil change though. I would go 5,000-7,500 miles on a synthetic oil.


We have quite a good amount of oils here - Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Pennzoil, Schaeffer, M1, Motul, Castrol, Liqui Moly, MPM, Kennol... There are probably more but this seems to come into mind so far..


But are those oils original? Or somebody is just packing 15w40 oil in whatever package you want
smile.gif


I am thinking about that possibility because you are mentioning problems with bearings and rod
wink.gif


I will stay on 5-8k miles interval...with 5w40 synthetic
 
Are racing oil intervals supposedly shorter?

Taken from Motul's website ("300V does its job well, but unlike 8100, it’s designed - as is typical of a racing lubricant – to have a more frequent replacement interval than a street oil like 8100. 8100, as a high-quality lubricant, can be changed at your car’s stated service intervals* while 300V would require replacing far sooner for the optimum performance.")
 
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Originally Posted By: Effer
Are racing oil intervals supposedly shorter?

Taken from Motul's website ("300V does its job well, but unlike 8100, it’s designed - as is typical of a racing lubricant – to have a more frequent replacement interval than a street oil like 8100. 8100, as a high-quality lubricant, can be changed at your car’s stated service intervals* while 300V would require replacing far sooner for the optimum performance.")


Oh noooo ..........You should not be using a racing oil in a typical street car ,observing

normal OCI !!

A racing oil has less or no detergents and dispersants.

As mentioned by KameleON ,racing oil is supposed to be replaced after a race ..........

Looks like your Swift has been running with minimal/nil detergents and dispersants ....... a

sure way of killing the Swift engine ..... in a matter of tens of months ??

Effer , if I were you , I wouldn't start this car engine unless it's meant to be driven straight

to a nearby Workshop for immediate oil replacement.
cry.gif
 
The chart you posted indicates that you can use 5w30 or 10w30 for your countries temp range. There are many good oils in this range. Check out the sales for oil in your area, choose a name brand oil and filter from the sales, and replace it.

The dino oils of today are good for 5k miles in most cases. Sometimes many more. What interval does your manual suggest you change the oil?

If you want to use synthetic oil, then Mobil 1 is a great choice and can be found on sale from time to time. Again 5w30 there. And it can go 7-8k miles fairly easily.
 
Looks like I will be visiting the workshop later today...

Would there be any problems using SN grade for a 2007 vehicle?

Manual suggest to change oil every 7500km / 4500miles
 
SN is about the only oil sold here in the U.S. and is used in all vehicles.

You're good to go
 
Originally Posted By: Effer
Looks like I will be visiting the workshop later today...

Would there be any problems using SN grade for a 2007 vehicle?

Manual suggest to change oil every 7500km / 4500miles



SN/SM/SL should be fine.

How many km has this 300V been running ?

Due to lack of detergent/dispersant from 300V relative to street oils , I'm thinking out loud

your used 300V (compared to similar aged street oil) may look 'clearer/cleaner' and more goldish

............. with hypothesis that lower levels of contaminants being removed from engine system

........... however, unusual wear if any , may change the scenario though.


Effer, would appreciate if you could kindly upload pictures on 'colours' of used 300V and

internal view below valve cover with oil filler cap removed, to look for signs of left-behind

contaminants/sludge/varnish not picked up by 300V of prolonged use.
coffee2.gif
 
Zeng, I will try to get a good shot of the inside of the oil filler cap later today.

As for the 'colours' of the used 300V, what would be the best method for this?

By the way, I'm lost on the selection of Mobil 1 oils, there just to be so many of them (Extended Performance, ESP, Advanced Fuel Economy, High Mileage....) The workshop I go currently have Motul 8100 on promo, any feedback on this oil?

Other brands of oil they currently stock that I recall are Bardahl, Kennol, Liqui Molly and some others..
 
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Originally Posted By: Effer
Zeng, I will try to get a good shot of the inside of the oil filler cap later today.

As for the 'colours' of the used 300V, what would be the best method for this?

By the way, I'm lost on the selection of Mobil 1 oils, there just to be so many of them (Extended Performance, ESP, Advanced Fuel Economy, High Mileage....) The workshop I go currently have Motul 8100 on promo, any feedback on this oil?

Other brands of oil they currently stock that I recall are Bardahl, Kennol, Liqui Molly and some others..


Hahaha ........ by 'colours' I meant ultra-low-tech visual inspection method ......... by a

competent mechanic who are observant , which is hard to come by nowadays , ........... who

normally have wide exposures in dealing with used oils characteristics/smell etc ....... and

obtain his comparative opinions/gut feelings etc against other used oils samples of

similarities.....


Bitogs would recommend you UOA ..............


Brands ? ...... all brands indicated are fine I suppose , maybe somebody here can help you on

one over the other. But since 8100 is on promo , I would just grab one.

For some reasons , I personally prefer xW40 over xW30 .........so , you may consider the

following 8100 :-

a )8100 X-cess 5W-40 : ACEA A3B4 , MB229.5 VW 50200 50500 BMW LL-01 SN ,KV100 at 14.2

cSt,HTHS@150C at 3.7 cP etc or

b )8100 X-clean 5W-40 :low SAPs ACEA C3 , MB229.31 VW 50200 50500 BmW LL-04, KV100 at 13.9 cSt,

HTHS >3.5 cP etc.

Just my 2 cents .........
beer3.gif
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Effer
Zeng, I will try to get a good shot of the inside of the oil filler cap later today.

As for the 'colours' of the used 300V, what would be the best method for this?

By the way, I'm lost on the selection of Mobil 1 oils, there just to be so many of them (Extended Performance, ESP, Advanced Fuel Economy, High Mileage....) The workshop I go currently have Motul 8100 on promo, any feedback on this oil?

Other brands of oil they currently stock that I recall are Bardahl, Kennol, Liqui Molly and some others..


Hahaha ........ by 'colours' I meant ultra-low-tech visual inspection method ......... by a

competent mechanic who are observant , which is hard to come by nowadays , ........... who

normally have wide exposures in dealing with used oils characteristics/smell etc ....... and

obtain his comparative opinions/gut feelings etc against other used oils samples of

similarities.....


Bitogs would recommend you UOA ..............


Brands ? ...... all brands indicated are fine I suppose , maybe somebody here can help you on

one over the other. But since 8100 is on promo , I would just grab one.

For some reasons , I personally prefer xW40 over xW30 .........so , you may consider the

following 8100 :-

a )8100 X-cess 5W-40 : ACEA A3B4 , MB229.5 VW 50200 50500 BMW LL-01 SN ,KV100 at 14.2

cSt,HTHS@150C at 3.7 cP etc or

b )8100 X-clean 5W-40 :low SAPs ACEA C3 , MB229.31 VW 50200 50500 BmW LL-04, KV100 at 13.9 cSt,

HTHS >3.5 cP etc.

Just my 2 cents .........
beer3.gif



Thanks thanks!

Although the manual doesn't write 5w40 (only 10w40), I guess it still is ok?
 
To me, any trusted brand ACEA A3/B4 oil will do great. I buy either Shell Helix Ultra 5W40, Mobil 1 0W40, or Castrol Edge 5W40 that goes on sale in Tesco. You could just drive to JB Tesco and buy several bottles on sale, at RM149. I just bought M1 0W40 on sale a month ago.
 
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Originally Posted By: toneydoc
.

The dino oils of today are good for 5k miles in most cases. Sometimes many more. What interval does your manual suggest you change the oil?

.



The dino oils of today in the US/Canada yes, but the dino oils in 3rd world regions over here are stuck in the 1990s. Dino over here is completely true in every sense of the word.
 
I once owned the same car as a 2009 model and used a 5W-30 full synthetic, usually Castrol Edge. 5W-30 is what is recommended by Suzuki.

Hang on to this one, I've never owned such a fun car and miss it a lot.
 
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