Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
As to the 5W-30 comments: This is BITOG... And those were the last two jugs of 5W-20. No 0W-20 to be had. What do we learn here. As thick as necessary, but as thin as possible..
Completely ignoring the part about "within the range specified by the manufacturer" eh?
So if an OEM specs 5w-20 to 20w-50, you use what is appropriate for your anticipated operating conditions and ambient temperatures. That does not mean ignoring what the OEM says and running thinner than what is spec'd.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
And to the oil condition/color: This oil had 2 cans of Lubro-Moly MOS2 in it, along with Seafoam and a bottle of MMO. Put together with a LOOP of fuel cleaner.. like, 3 bottles CRC Guaranteed To Pass over three tanks, and Royal Purple Maclean and Redland SI-1. Soo... (Nick, OVERKILL) I see no other signs of "water in the oil" including perfect coolant level, and I think the mutant oil was from other, maybe 02 sensor related to fuel things.. and my own concoction, which now is out.
Or it just has water in the oil. Did you do a "brake booster" water cleaning on this thing?
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
The 5W-20 also eliminated noise on start-up,
Or it was the filter.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
so, I'm thinking stubborn mechanic (OVERKILL remember how I mentioned how I'm not turning any wrenches on this teuck?) Stayed putting the 10W-40 in there, and "yes"sed Mom to death on me INSISTING on 5W-30 LIKE IT SAYS ON THE CAP use, since he is as stubborn as I am, which is why I like him...
Surey, 5W-20 can't be an issue here!
It certainly could be an issue here which is why when it isn't your vehicle you should leave the wizards in the can alone and use what is specified by the manufacturer.