Removing haze from headlights

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Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Bug repellent.

I used Deep Woods Off.

Spray on, wipe off, repeat.

Be careful with any overspray.

Follow with a cleaner/polish.



While this may have worked for you, there's no way I'd ever recommend that anyone else try this, as bug spray is basically melting the plastic.

I had tremendous luck using 800-1000-1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper followed by toothpaste and then a decent sealant.

Just my $.02.
 
If they aren't really bad, you could do what I do. Just hit them with some compound and the rotary polisher whenever you happen to have it out. Follow that with a coat of paint sealant. If you don't have a rotary polisher, you can use one of those powerball things on a drill. If you don't have either of those, you can go to Harbor Freight and get a rotary polisher for $30 when they're on sale. Throw away the pad that comes with it, but buy a yellow pad for compounding, and a black one for applying wax or sealant, or very light polishing. Those pads are $10 each, and you can get Meguiars Ultimate Compound for pretty cheap. That's enough to polish several entire vehicles.
 
Google Chrisfix and go that route.

Any yellowing no matter how slight means the UV coating is going bye bye.

Do it once, do it right and be done with it. The sooner you actually get a UV seal back on the easier the job is in the first place.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
This thread should be a sticky due to Trav's detailed procedure alone.

Trav, for the love of Peter, fix your picture links.
wink.gif
 
Sorry I screwed up the links, I went to the paid version and it encrypted them and they broke, my fault. The pics are still there. I will post the pics again and make remake the post tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Bug repellent.

I used Deep Woods Off.

Spray on, wipe off, repeat.

Be careful with any overspray.

Follow with a cleaner/polish.

X2
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Sorry I screwed up the links, I went to the paid version and it encrypted them and they broke, my fault.

See, I said it should be a sticky and your pics are in important part of that!
wink.gif
 
I bought the 3m kit last year for our Matrix.

It came out pretty good, not perfect but pretty good.

One year later the lamps are yellow again.
 
Originally Posted By: JustinH
I bought the 3m kit last year for our Matrix.

It came out pretty good, not perfect but pretty good.

One year later the lamps are yellow again.


Did you put any protection on them, like a sealant?
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Garak
This thread should be a sticky due to Trav's detailed procedure alone.

Trav, for the love of Peter, fix your picture links.
wink.gif



I started a new thread with the original text and pics.
 
I'll be following it one of these days. My G37's headlights are in dreadful shape. They weren't like that when I got them. I swear they did a cheap headlight fix, then it was foisted upon me. They were good, then just deteriorated before my very eyes.
 
Originally Posted By: JustinH
I bought the 3m kit last year for our Matrix.

It came out pretty good, not perfect but pretty good.

One year later the lamps are yellow again.


Was going to buy that kit, but I ended buying the Sylvania kit because it has the UV block clear coat that hardens when it dries. My headlights look like new now on my 92 Oldsmobile. The Sylvania kit requires a lot of elbow grease, but it was worth the effort.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
I'll be following it one of these days. My G37's headlights are in dreadful shape. They weren't like that when I got them. I swear they did a cheap headlight fix, then it was foisted upon me. They were good, then just deteriorated before my very eyes.


Yes that's what they do. You can use tons of different things to clear them up but you'll never get a UV coating like they do when they are made in a clean room, and that's assuming they applied a UV coating which many won't even attempt on a car that's for sale since they will stay clear for about a month
 
You can apply an even better UV coating than OE. OE isn't that good, believe me. Its very thin and not very durable.
I did a 93 BMW 325i over 15 years ago using a medium solids UV resistant 2K clear and they were still nice and clear when they sold it last year.
The originals were getting yellow after 5 yrs.
 
Hey, happy birthday, Trav! I still got to get this done to my G37 when I get some peace. I am convinced that the dealer or previous owner did a very shoddy job on removing the haze before I got it. They looked good when I got the car, but went downhill fast, and we all know what that means.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Hey, happy birthday, Trav! I still got to get this done to my G37 when I get some peace. I am convinced that the dealer or previous owner did a very shoddy job on removing the haze before I got it. They looked good when I got the car, but went downhill fast, and we all know what that means.


Garak, after detailing (and good washing after) put a coat of clear lacquer (for plastic). You are good for years that way.
 
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