Diesel Oil in a Gasoline Passenger Car ?

[SR5]

Hi Shannow,
Thanks for that. I can see this is where the big economy of running mixed fleet HDEOs is. Buy in bulk from a wholesaler, not from the corner store.

A 20L drum would probably do me for 4 years, as long as I resisted the temptation to stock up at SCA and Repco during their regular sales.

Right now I think you are running Chief 5W30 synthetic in your S/C V6. Have you ever tried a 15W40 HDEO in there?

To be honest I'm tempted by the GTX 15W40 deal happening at SCA right now. 5L of oil and.a filter for better than half price. The castrol GTX oil is A3/B3 rated too.

 

[Shannow]

SR5,
current fill in the Stato is Magnatec SP5W40 (Have a fill of CHief 5W30, and a fill of Magnatec Stop Start in the stash).

OCI before that was Magnatec economy 5W30.

Before that had three very short OCIs of that Helix 15W40 that was $15/5L to experiment on varnish removal.

Had some Repco (Penrite) 15W40 and some AutoRx before that at various stages (my logbook got stolen with a foofighters CD and a few others start of the year), and before that Helix 10W30.

I'm on an XW30 A3/B4 bent at the moment.

 

[supercity]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Garak, you are as reliable as the sun rise, and that offer still stands for an ANZAC day drink.

I can't find many CJ-4 oils here. Castrol has Vecton 15W-40 which is CJ-4 / E9, or Vecton 5W-30 which is just CJ-4


Vecton Long Drain 15w40 (was Hypuron) is Castrol's CJ-4/SM. There is also BP Vanellus Multifleet Eco 15w40. Not easy to find but I've seen it at the local truck stop so it is around.

 

[Brons2]

I've been driving for two of the ride sharing services that you've probably heard of, when I'm not at my day job. So I'm driving a lot more and doing a lot more idling. I'm thinking of switching to a 10w30 HDEO for the higher TBN and longer life, as well as potentially better boundary lubrication. My Kia is approved for 10w30 over 0F, which we will most likely never reach here in Austin, Texas.

It did get to -2F once but that was in January, 1949. I'm thinking I will probably stay home if it does ever get that cold

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: supercity
Originally Posted By: SR5
Garak, you are as reliable as the sun rise, and that offer still stands for an ANZAC day drink.

I can't find many CJ-4 oils here. Castrol has Vecton 15W-40 which is CJ-4 / E9, or Vecton 5W-30 which is just CJ-4


Vecton Long Drain 15w40 (was Hypuron) is Castrol's CJ-4/SM. There is also BP Vanellus Multifleet Eco 15w40. Not easy to find but I've seen it at the local truck stop so it is around.





Good to hear SuperCity, thanks for that, I will have a look for them.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: Brons2
I've been driving for two of the ride sharing services that you've probably heard of, when I'm not at my day job. So I'm driving a lot more and doing a lot more idling. I'm thinking of switching to a 10w30 HDEO for the higher TBN and longer life, as well as potentially better boundary lubrication. My Kia is approved for 10w30 over 0F, which we will most likely never reach here in Austin, Texas.

It did get to -2F once but that was in January, 1949. I'm thinking I will probably stay home if it does ever get that cold

Sounds like a good plan

http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/consolidated HDEO 2015.html

 

[Torrid]

What kind of cars are most of you running HDEO oils in? I used to swear by Xx40 and Xx50 high ZDDP oils when I had my GTO. Yes, they are roller rockers in the modern LSX engine line, but the higher film strength seemed to almost completely kill the lifter noise in it. I haven't bothered with it with the Lincoln and Jag. They are both OHC V8s with larger oil capacities and lower valve pressures and 5w30 keeps them both whisper quiet. The Jag calls for 5w30, but the Lincoln calls for 5w20. I don't have anything against 20 wt oils, but it seems to burn them profusely. About a quart every 1k miles. The car sat for a very long time before becoming a daily driver so I'm not sure if it's something to do with that or if the 5w30 will cut down the consumption. The Jaguar had a similar issue, though it had a large oil leak after sitting for 2 months and that went away after it started getting miles on it again.

 

[BrocLuno]

I run fleet oils (Delo, Delvac, Rotella - 15-40) non-synthetic in about all my cars and trucks. All have over 100K (mi) on the odo; a few over 200K currently

All are quieter on start-up and have reduced oil consumption between changes.

So that's Jag, Saab, Ford, and Chevy. Newest is '01. Oldest are two 1970's.

Have run same in 300K Volvo Turbo, VW Sirocco, previous Jag and other family members cars or trucks if they get changed at my place.

 

[SR5]

So I found this interesting, it's the dispersant in HDEO, not the detergent that cleans up you engine.

Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy

Once you have sludge in an engine, detergents don't really do much to clean it up. What you really need to clean up your engine (assuming that you really do want to open that particular can of worms!) is an oil that contains a lot if ashless dispersant. You can't 'see' ashless on a typical oil analysis because they contain no metal.

However one thing is very true and that is diesel oils contain a lot more ashless than oils for gasoline cars because they need it for soot handling.


From:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3840394/1

And while you are at it, a good bit of Zinc talk here, with HDEOs and flat tappet engines
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3856539/1

 

[SR5]

So I'm now convinced.
A HDEO oil has more Zinc, more TBN, more shear stability, and better ability to clean an engine than the Average PCMO.

Yes the full synthetic PCMOs like Castrol Edge / M1 0W40 are still top of my list (but quite expensive for me).
And, Yes many modern cars need low SAPS oils, instead of a HDEO.

But for all the cars and bikes I do (or have) owned, it would be a safe and high quality choice for me. Plus easy to find when traveling.

 

[Garak]

Here, for sake of interest, is the Canadian labeling for what's in my G37.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: Brons2
I've been driving for two of the ride sharing services that you've probably heard of, when I'm not at my day job. So I'm driving a lot more and doing a lot more idling. I'm thinking of switching to a 10w30 HDEO for the higher TBN and longer life, as well as potentially better boundary lubrication. My Kia is approved for 10w30 over 0F, which we will most likely never reach here in Austin, Texas.

It did get to -2F once but that was in January, 1949. I'm thinking I will probably stay home if it does ever get that cold

According to the majority of BITOG, anything below 32*F needs to be a 0w. Cold flow is important even if one lives on the equator.