'98 Toyota Tacoma, 3.4L V6, 80k, What to Look For?

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Howdy, my Brother-in-Law bought a 1998 Toyota Tacoma from an older Farmer in Iowa. Just 80,000 Miles!
I'll be doing most of the maintenance on it.

Very little maintenance was done to it, unfortunately, but looks nice w/no rust.

I checked the Air Filter first, and it was super dusty; banged out millions of sand/dust particles out of it.
Told him to buy a new Air Filter right away!

It had no Master Cylinder Cap, just a rag stuffed in it. Got a new cap. Brake Fluid is BLACK.
crazy2.gif
Bleeding it tomorrow.

Few Questions.....

1) It has the original Transmission Fluid, 17 years, 80k, it's a dull red, no brown, change it, correct?? Any particular type?

2) Is this one of the "sludger" engines??

3) Anything else I should watch out for?

Thanks!
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Is the tranny an automatic? I believe Toyota's of that generation used either DexronIII/Mercon or Toyota T-IV ATF or 80W90 gear oil for a manual tranny. If it's an automatic tranny, it will usually say which ATF on the dipstick.

Also, is the truck a 2WD of 4WD. Either way, change out the differential(s) and transfer case(if equipped), typically with 80W90 Gear Oil. If you don't know if the differential has limited slip, just buy a gear oil that has the limited slip differential(LSD) additive in it.

Others will chime in with more specific information. But, you can visit Tacoma forums as well.
 
Originally Posted By: thunderfog
Frame rot, frame rot, frame rot.


+666
 
Things to look out for:

Pink milkshake with trans fluid. This is the era of cooler failing in radiator taking out the 4sp auto.

Rear axle seal failure (gear oil all over rear inside tires).
 
Have 01 2wd AT since new with same engine. It's a timing belt engine so that would something you would want to check when done. If not done, imo it should be done asap.

Up north, Tacoma frames can be an issue. Many recalled for inspection, then either replacement or buyout. Here in the south, frames not an issue.

I'd change out the trans fluid as noted. I've just done simple d&f's with MaxLife and similar, but mine not driven hard and not 4wd.

Engine is very reliable, not a sludger. Very easy on oil.

Might want to change out differential fluid too.
 
Also, I bet the Spark Plugs are original.

Which Spark Plugs should I put in this 3.4L V6 engine?
NGK Copper, V-Power, or G-Power?
 
Originally Posted By: Turk
Also, I bet the Spark Plugs are original.

Which Spark Plugs should I put in this 3.4L V6 engine?
NGK Copper, V-Power, or G-Power?


This NGK ....This is the original plug and the only one you should consider.

Also, when greasing the universals, be sure the grease is getting to all of the bearings. One of mine wasn't getting grease from new and failed at 200k. My biggest fail yet on my '99. Awesome machines!

I'm planning to replace my timing belt on mine Saturday. As far as I know, it's the original at 200k (had it since about 30k). These are non-interference engines.
 
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As long as its not to rusty, up here those trucks rust like crazy. I just saw a load of Toyota truck frames on a flat bed yesterday going to the local dealer.
 
Do the fuel filter, replace wires with NGK or Densos, use the double pronged correct spark plugs. The back plug is a tough one to do.. but is easier to do when/if you need to do the valve cover gaskets. Make sure you check the upper and lower ball joints yours has low miles but it is something u need to keep an eye on. Koyo radiators are the best and can be found for around $150. Its cheaper to replace the radiator or make an external tranny cooler than to run the trans. Maxlife ATF for your trans.

Remove the EFI relay for 30 mins to reset the computer and you will probably gain some mpgs to reset the previous owners driving habits.

For piece of mind locate all the spare tire stuff and make sure it all works correctly before you find out that everything is rusted and you dont have the tool to remove the spare tire etc.

I just went thru all of this myself that engine was designed by Hino and will see 400-500K easy.

Also look at your rear dust shields on your back brakes, they rust and rot away and cause things to rust up in the back brake area..just pull it all down and make sure everthing is ok.. putting wheel seals on these isnt fun either..so make sure the rear brakes arent oily.
 
Excellent, thank you, guys!!
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So, in summary the main concerns are:


1) Frame rot, Frame rot, Frame rot. I'll clean & spray w/Fluid Film.

2) Correct Plugs & Wires.

3) Timing Belt soon.

4) Tranny Fluid, probably Maxlife ATF.

5) Diff. & Xfer Case Fluids.

6) Oil & Filter: I'll go with M1 AFE 0w-30 & NAPA Gold Filter

7) Check Rear Axle Seals & Backing Plate.
 
Yes use the plugs suspiciousmind posted, many people just stick regular spark plugs in Toyotas, I just changed mine with the correct plugs. Also remember to gap them, they won't be pre-gapped properly.
 
Cooling system flush? Or do that with the timing belt and water pump?
 
add to the list:

Check the valve gap. The exh valves in the v6 models would occasionally burn. Checking the gap may lessen the chance.

That does not mean, "all toyota v6's of that era burn valves." it just means that a few did exhibit the problem, while most didn't.
 
Originally Posted By: caravanmike
Things to look out for:

Rear axle seal failure (gear oil all over rear inside tires).


You are right!!!

Pulled the rear tires & drums off and they are SOAKED!!
Including the Shoes...

That's the next project, soon! Wow.
 
check your breather on the rear axle..thats what mostly causes blown wheel seals.

also i was going to take pictures but i didnt on another 1999 4runner i bought recently. It had 225K miles on the original timing belt. The belt was cracked in about a million different places.

You can take that front cover off pretty easily to examine your timing belt.
 
Their daughter let another girl drive it on a gravel road.

They did something stupid, rolled it and it is totaled.

Fudge.
 
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