2016 Kia Turbo 20W50

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hi Java,

There was a recent thread titled "Sudden Oil Consumption Causes?"
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3833457/1

It's worth a read, consider the following comment:

Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy


I'm relatively new to BITOG but I've already made the point on several posts that I am concerned about the high volatility of American engine oils. I don't profess to fully understand things but I have a strong suspicion that under the influence of blow-by, fuel dilution (followed by fuel evaporation), water condensation (followed by evaporation), the most volatile part of the engine oil is entering into the vapour phase, whizzing straight through the PCV valve, into the intake system and then burnt. If I have this right, the process will be transient, circular and self-exacerbating.
My answer, for what it's worth, is to move to a much less volatile oil such as a 20W50 or a 15W40.



Maybe Kia agree and want people to use a less volatile oil in a Turbo GDI car.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
How about a high end 20W50 like Redline or RP HPS/XPR?


Yep, I'm with Aquariuscsm, I would prefer a high end 20W50 over the old GTX 20W50 SJ mineral oil I once used.

Also, easy and cheap, and of good quality, a HDEO 15W40 like Shell Rotella T.
 
I'd be wondering about Red Line in a new vehicle under warranty, and the same goes for RP's non-API stuff. I won't even begin to go on about my musings about 20w-50 in a brand new vehicle.
 
I must have 'arrived' on BITOG if people are already quoting me!

Several comments...

First, I drive a Kia (a tiny little thing called a Picanto). I like Kia. IMO, Kia are what Toyota was 15 years ago, selling sensible cars at sensible prices to sensible people (like me). They are unique in the UK for offering a 7 year warranty on their cars. Spirited driving? Maybe not but I calculated that 97% of the time, my car sits on the drive doing absolute bugger all so I don't honestly care.

Regarding 20W50, yes I agree that the common perception is that they are old and low tech. However that sort of misses the essential point that heavy base oils, in certain aspects of lubrication are supremely good at what they do. 20W50s don't have to be low tech either. Most 20W50s (they are still common in many parts of the world) are made from old fashioned Group I heavies like Exxon 600SN. But today you have Group II 500SN that's widely available and far more oxidatively stable. You also have Yubase 8 Group III and PAO 10 which are heavy and have relatively good CCS properties.

If you turn the question around and ask, how can I make the best PCMO that's based predominantly on heavy base stock, you might get something that's not even 20W50 (it would probably be lighter) but it would be superb where volatility and the need to keep pistons clean are the over-riding performance requirements of the oil.

Oh course this is never going to happen. God forbid that the industry might produce something that CUSTOMERS might actually want! The lubricants business, especially in the US, is a producer driven industry run primarily for the benefit of the OEMs,the base oil producing oil companies, the AddCo's, the Government (CAFE) and the test houses...not the person that actual buys the oil. I find it deeply ironic that in The Land Of The Free, you have an industry that could quite happily be at home in the old Soviet Union...

(pulls pin...throws grenade...waits for the explosion...)
 
I'm not understanding the 50 wt shock when it's already been established that many brand new cars run 50wt and 60wt straight from the factory.

More specify a 50wt when racing the vehicle.

Laugh at the 20w50 if you like, but there's enough out there that barely notice a 5000 mile OCI in engines that tear the "preferred" viscosities to toilet water in half the mileage.
 
Joe90_guy: I don't think Imperial Oil even offers a 50 grade of any sort up here, aside from possibly a motorcycle specific variety 20w-50, and the 15w-50 and 5w-50 synthetics, the latter of which has a number of European approvals. Stability is fine, but as you've pointed out before, given the short OCIs that are commonplace in North America, the need isn't quite there. And, while you point out that 20w-50 doesn't have to be low tech, normal ILSAC type grades currently specified have obviously advanced a lot over the years.
 
Garak,

As you live in Canada, a country where it's life threateningly cold for nine months of the year, you're excused. But if you live in Florida or Alabama or one of those other big squary bits close to the Mexican border, do you really honestly need a 5W or 0W oil?

It's the same over here. I bought the 3 year/£99 service pack when I got the Kia. Every year or 10,000 miles (it sort of works out to be roughly the same in my case) they change my oil. They use a Shell Low SAP Full Synthetic (probably Group III) 5W30. It's fine and all but is it technically justified? I don't think so. The lowest temp we see here is about -4C. Even in uncivilised Jockland it rarely goes below -10C so no-one actually needs 5W, even 10W is only just about justified. And a full synthetic? Why? It's a bit like having an 18" willy...yes, it looks impressive but when will it ever get used to its full potential? The answer is never, (and yes, it does look a bit thin doesn't it?)

I am using this oil for one reason; because the industry wants me to and in my opinion, that's not a good place to be.
 
Online Search...
I could not find the KIA Sorento recommendations but here are the sister company's, Hyundai (2.0T and 2.4) for 2015:

page.h62.png


page.h61.png



In my 2014 physical Owner's Manual,

2.0T chart shows:
20w-50
15w-40
10w-30
5w-40
5w-30 *first recommendation*
 
My manual shows 20W50..I have the images but cant figure out how to post them here without using HTTP....go to kia owners site and download the manual
Originally Posted By: wemay

Online Search...
I could not find the KIA Sorento recommendations but here are the sister company's, Hyundai (2.0T and 2.4) for 2015:

page.h62.png


page.h61.png



In my 2014 physical Owner's Manual,

2.0T chart shows:
20w-50
15w-40
10w-30
5w-40
5w-30 *first recommendation*
 
java,

That is what i said as well, hence the bottom portion of that post where i manually added the manual's allowable viscosity. I also cannot post pics from my phone.
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy
As you live in Canada, a country where it's life threateningly cold for nine months of the year, you're excused. But if you live in Florida or Alabama or one of those other big squary bits close to the Mexican border, do you really honestly need a 5W or 0W oil?

There are plenty of vehicles, even here, that certainly don't need a 5w-30 or anything in a synthetic, given common OCIs. But, sometimes we have to look at it from the manufacturers' perspective, which is, as you indicate, perhaps the root of the problem. If you give temperature charts, sure as heck someone will use SAE 40 in a Saskatchewan winter, have a warranty claim, and then be all over social media when they get told to hit the bricks.

Of course, that doesn't take into account anyone who can use common sense. In any event, it's rather nice to be able to stick with one service fill year round.
 
A 10W40 is my "thin" oil haha :p But then again there's a sticker under the hood of these cars that says 10W30 is good to 60F and to use 10W40-20W50 60F and higher.
 
Originally Posted By: java
I posted earlier seeking confirmation that M1 5W30 is a good choice for this 2.0T TGDI.
The dealer insists that I should run 20W50 three seasons. Indeed the manual shows this as an option.
My guess us that will be the optimal solution for the turbo heat.


Two heavy weight synthetics that come to mind are M1 15W50 and Castrol Edge 10W60.

Many good mineral (or semi-synthetic) HDEO 15W40s

The 0W40 synthetics that meet the highest Euro standards MB229.5 (M1 and Castrol again) are very well respected in performance and turbo engines.

Over here Havoline make two 20W50 mineral oils, one called Premium and is API SL, the other is Classic or Multigrade and is API SG. They also make a Premium mineral 10W40 API SM ( probably SN now). Also Castrol make a mineral GTX 15W40 API SN and ACEA A3/B3. But I agree with you OP, I would consider a good name brand, full synthetic 5W30 a step forward from these mineral oils.

I would be interested to hear what brand and API rating 20W50 the dealer uses.
 
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy
Garak,

As you live in Canada, a country where it's life threateningly cold for nine months of the year, you're excused. But if you live in Florida or Alabama or one of those other big squary bits close to the Mexican border, do you really honestly need a 5W or 0W oil?

Maybe 5w40 and 0w40 aren't needed in Florida, but if you read the UOA section, you will find that with turbocharged gasoline engines, M1 0w40 and Shell RT6 5w40 work extremely well, even in places where the temperature never drops below freezing.
 
Yep, the full synthetic 0W40 and 5W40 oils, are not only for all seasons, they are for all geographies.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: java
The manual indicates 20W50 above 20 degrees F.
Go to your Kia dealer and drive a 2016 Sorento SXL. Then rethink econobox. This thing is better built then my BMW 535i and Lexus ES350, both 2014 models.

This is the first time I hear that a Kia vehicle is better than BMW and Lexus.


Kias are getting rave reviews in Europe including Germany where they are designed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top