Possible transmission issue

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Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It acted up again tonight why entering the freeway onramp. At about mid throttle while accelerating to 65 mph, the car started bucking violently for a second or two and then smoothed out like nothing happened. I couldn't get it to replicate the issue for rest of the night. I drove up and down the freeway trying to get it to act up again but it never happened. In the meantime, the transmission is shifting fine and it even down shifted while slowing down on the offramp. Weird.


Its not uncommon for the ignition module to fail on these causing those sorts of symptoms. The heat sink compound deteriorates over time on the iron bracket and it overheats causing intermittent problems.
Its just one of many possibilities but its often overlooked.


You mean like this? (Safe for work)

http://imgur.com/a/GzluC

Dunno if Merk has the same thing in his 2000 as that 1991.
 
Triple edge is great. Is this your primary vehicle? If not try the shift kit. It will get you some miles.

Here is how to do the shift kit. It may help for a bit.

This is the one I did on my Grand Prix. Posted it here. Wish they had some stickies for tech articles.
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4T65E shift kit install

When I had my Buick a bad coil acted like that.

I am luckey we have a local guy that dan do the triple edge stuff. They are called "Speed Secrets"
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire

You mean like this? (Safe for work)

http://imgur.com/a/GzluC

Dunno if Merk has the same thing in his 2000 as that 1991.


The later models have a very similar unit, not exactly the same in appearance but close, the location is the same and they have the same sorts of failures.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Its not uncommon for the ignition module to fail on these causing those sorts of symptoms. The heat sink compound deteriorates over time on the iron bracket and it overheats causing intermittent problems.
Its just one of many possibilities but its often overlooked.


I replaced the Ignition Control Module on 10-14-2013. I had a P0300 with a flashing check engine light. After some spark testing, I determined that one of three coils was not being fired by the ICM. It was the coil for cylinders 1 & 4.

Where do you get that heat sink compound? I looked all over the local auto parts stores and no one had it nor heard of it. I ended up having to use dielectric grease between the new ICM and the bracket. I don't think dielectric grease is very heat conductive.
 
Radio shack or similar should have it. Same stuff as computers use in between their CPUs and the heat sink.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The Service Engine Soon dash light finally came on. DTC P0102.
Mass Air Flow sensor code? For your bad transmission?
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Mass Air Flow sensor code? For your bad transmission?


No ... let me explain.
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I originally thought I had a transmission issue when I first started this thread. The car will occasionally buck and jerk for a couple of seconds under moderate acceleration. After testing the Mass Airflow Sensor circuit with my volt meter, I have come to the conclusion that I need to replace the MAF pigtail connector. If I wiggle the wires at the connector with the engine running, it will buck and jerk the same way it does while driving. I suspect one of the three wires is broken inside the three wire MAF connector, but I don't have a pin removal tool to pull the pin out of the connector to check which one it is. The plan is to go ahead and change the pigtail and then investigate the original factory pigtail at a later date whenever I get ahold of the pin insertion/extractor tool. Does that make any sense Nick?
 
Oooooh. Yes it makes perfect sense now lol.
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It must be quite the relief that it's just a MAF sensor connection, and not a transmission!
 
Yes ... it is a relief and quite a surprise because I never thought that a sensor circuit could have such a dramatic affect on the drivability of a car. In my experience, sensor circuit issues have caused subtle differences, not bucking and jerking like a mechanical bull rider machine.
 
Years ago I thought a friend had a transmission problem in his '94 Duster, turned out to be a MAP sensor.
 
You don't always need the tool to remove them. Sometimes a pocket screwdriver or pick will suffice. Just look in there and figure out where the release tang is and figure out what it will take to disengage it.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
You don't always need the tool to remove them. Sometimes a pocket screwdriver or pick will suffice. Just look in there and figure out where the release tang is and figure out what it will take to disengage it.


A really small flat head screwdriver should work.
 
OK just an update guys. After driving around town with a new MAF sensor for the last two weeks, I can say with a reasonable amount of confidence that the transmission issue is fixed.
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