2008 f150 5.4 ticking noise

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hyperscion

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howdy. Can I prevent cam phaser problems and other problems known to this engine,by using top tier oil, like redline or amsoil?

Motor has 69000 miles and has run mc 5w20 and mc filters for years, but it has a loud ticking sound for 30 sec after a cold start.

any info is appreciated.
 
Is it a slapping noise?

Does it sound like the timing chain, or like a lifter tick?

The 2008 wasn't particularly known for having really loud phasers like the 04-05 trucks.

Those engines are noisy in general. One of the reasons I went to Chevy.

My family owns several 4.6L and 5.4L motors and 2 of them have had the timing chains and guides replaced because of broken timing guides. They both were getting noisy with chain slap.

Also one of the lash adjusters may be loosing its prime over night and not pumping up right away.

They also are picky about oil filters as well. My first step would be to replace the filter with another Fl820S and see if anything changes.
 
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On those engines I would always check for a loose spark plug before anything else. Next would be an exhaust leak near/at the heads since it goes away after only 30 seconds, and then I would get into the internals.
 
Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
On those engines I would always check for a loose spark plug before anything else. Next would be an exhaust leak near/at the heads since it goes away after only 30 seconds, and then I would get into the internals.



+1 i forgot about the manifold leaks. They are terrible about the heads on the exhaust studs rusting off and sounding terrible at startup.

They eventually will get quiet as they heat up until more than a few rust off. My dads 2010 4.6L already has exhaust manifold leaks.
 
it sounds to me more of a lifter tick when cold. Iam no expert with fords but I think I may stay with mc filters and go with a very high quality oil in the 5w20 range,, to see if that helps.
 
ok good to know, I hadnt thought of that.

I am having a local shop put new plugs in next week,just in case.
This pickup looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor, really... so I am trying to make dad proud and keep her running solid, like when He had her...
 
good choice. MC filters are great. Oil is subjective. My dad uses Amsoil OE in his at 10k mile intervals and his runs great.

He is getting his manifolds and studs replaced this month because his ticks at startup because of that.

Look at the back of your exhaust manifolds on both sides. count the manifold bolts. if you have a leak there you will see a missing/deteriorated bolt head.

The passenger side is the most common one to leak.

Has the truck been ticking a long time or just recently?
 
Has the truck been ticking a long time or just recently?

maybe last 1000 miles.


thanks for the info guys it is appreciated.
 
Originally Posted By: hyperscion
Has the truck been ticking a long time or just recently?

maybe last 1000 miles.


thanks for the info guys it is appreciated.



Id say its the exhaust manifolds, since it is that recent. Its usually best to replaced the whole manifold (they are cheap) and buy the good stainless studs and bolts. Good luck!
 
Originally Posted By: hyperscion
ok good to know, I hadnt thought of that.

I am having a local shop put new plugs in next week,just in case.
This pickup looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor, really... so I am trying to make dad proud and keep her running solid, like when He had her...


Just make sure this "local shop" is aware of the spark plug breakage issue with the 3V 5.4. Chances are they will break a few, so make sure they're aware of the proper extraction procedure and that they have the extraction kit on hand. I'd also get a quote for how much extra they're going to charge for each one that breaks.
 
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
Originally Posted By: hyperscion
ok good to know, I hadnt thought of that.

I am having a local shop put new plugs in next week,just in case.
This pickup looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor, really... so I am trying to make dad proud and keep her running solid, like when He had her...


Just make sure this "local shop" is aware of the spark plug breakage issue with the 3V 5.4. Chances are they will break a few, so make sure they're aware of the proper extraction procedure and that they have the extraction kit on hand. I'd also get a quote for how much extra they're going to charge for each one that breaks.


+1 Also Champion makes a really trick one piece spark plug for the 3V that will not break when they need changed again. Good catch, KD0AXS.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/news/...ines-36026.html

I had a 2004 which I replaced the Motorcrafts with. 5 of my 8 Motorcrafts broke off in mine and i had to buy the extractor tool from the local MAC guy. I waited two days to get these one-piece plugs in because i wasn't about to put those two-piece Motorcraft plugs back in it. Most NAPA stores carry the Champion one-piece plugs.
 
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oh boy,do they know. These guys are awesome super honest. when I told them what I wanted they knew the job. A ford dealership a few miles away charged $300 a plug for these 3V 5.4 motors.

thanks for the help
 
That's just a couple manifold bolts, OP
grin.gif


And Modular motors could not care less what oil you put in them. Read through Motor Oil 101, et cetera, on this very site.
 
Just to clarify, the ticking is from a loose plug, not a broken plug. If it blows out, it will usually damage the head and it's a more costly repair. Time is of the essence. I would get a wrench on each plug before driving it again. It can easily go from a free repair to an expensive repair.

You can unplug one injector at a time and if the noise goes away it's a loose plug or exhaust leak. A lifter tick won't change if the cylinder is not firing. I understand it will take a while with only a 30 second window each time.
 
Careful with the Champion plugs, as they don't always agree with the misfire detection system.

With regards to the suggestion of stainless hardware on the manifolds, beware that stainless has a habit of backing out when used to mount exhaust manifolds. If you use stainless, check the torque on them regularly.
 
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