Blower motor resistor

[wallyuwl]

Long story short: I've been having blower motors go bad between every six months to every year since we got the car in 2005 (2003 Vibe). I'm thinking it isn't the blower motors, but the voltage that gets sent to it.

So today I replaced the blower motor relay, the blower motor resistor, and the blower motor itself (again).

After everything was installed, the fan only works on high speed. Is the resistor defective? For those that might have a Vibe or Matrix (though the resistors are one of few parts different between the vehicles), when you put the rectangle part inside the housing, does it need to "click" into a slot or something in there?

There was a bunch of what seemed like yellow-brownish glue on the connector that connects to the resistor. I did my best to get this off the plug before attaching it to the new resistor. Anyone know what this might be, and if it could be the problem?

I thought it weird the replacement part was different from the original. The original was all black, and said made in Mexico. The replacement (AC Delco) says made in Japan, and you can see the circuit. It is more gray. When Amazon shipped the part it was not in a box or even plastic bag, just in some bubble wrap inside a box. I wonder if that ruined it?

 

[Chris142]

Usually the connector that plugs into the resister has high resistance and burns up at the connection. Sometimes you can clean the terminals and bend them for a tighter fit.

How does your connector look? Did you clean and bend the terminals?

 

[wallyuwl]

Connector looks like junk. Full of that glue-like crud. I'm not sure how would be best to clean it? So far I've just taken a screwdriver shaped like a pick and gotten as much out as I could. Not sure if I should use any solvents on it?

The four connectors are not pin connectors so there is no bending or whatever necessary I don't think. They are more metal pieces that have a spring on the back (sort of like the boards gymnasts bounce off of during the pommel horse exercise).

I'm thinking of just getting a new resistor and connector. Total is $55 from Advance after coupon code (including shipping). Then I'd return the existing resistor to Amazon for $30 back.

 

[wallyuwl]

So I tried cleaning the connector some more. I was able to get 3 of the 4 speeds to work. So I took it out and tried cleaning it some more. Now just the high speed works again.

So, I am going to return the current resistor to Amazon and then ordered a new resistor, and connector, from Advance.

 

[mechtech2]

That glue was once a preservative and sealer grease.
It has heated and hardened.
The connectors do burn there, and make poor contact.
So dig it out and spray clean them with carb cleaner or whatever.
Sand or wire brush contacts shiny clean.
Burned up? You can get a new connector, and splice/solder it on the harness.

When a fan motor goes out, the air flow over the resistor pack is stopped. This will puke a resistor pack. It needs that air flow.
Maybe one problem is causing another.

 

[wallyuwl]

I wish I could get a brush on these contacts. but they are in the housing in a way that makes it pretty much impossible. I think the new one will have the right connector on the non-resistor end because one review said it was easy to install, though the picture on Advance's web site just shows the resistor end. I'm thinking the connector and/or resistor and/or relay were bad for a while. When the blower motors were going bad it was due to them chirping, my guess is an over voltage was wearing out the bushings. The BMs still worked, but just made noise. Should be a half hour fix at the most to replace the connector and resistor when I get the parts delivered in a few days.

In light of the issues the OEM grease caused, should I use any grease on the contacts on the new connector? And if so, what type? Or will I be fine just doing metal on metal?

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
I wish I could get a brush on these contacts.

I use a small hand held sandblaster.

 

[mechtech2]

Steel wool, Scotch Brite, sandpaper, whatever, on a small screwdriver or pick is how you clean them.
Yes, a PITA, but it should not be done 1/2 derriered. Get them shiny clean.

And the electrical grease [bulb ocket grease at the auto parts store] is a good idea . Generally fill it up and connect it again.

 

[engineer20]

mine went out on the taurus
i can't find any videos on youtube for the specific 09 model but i see one for a 2010 escape which might be similar? anybody know of the specific video for this model? (i can't find it) and is it pretty similar to doing it on an escape? i bought it a few weeks ago and it's a carquest brand from AAP from their 4th of july sale (is this a good brand, they said it was premium and had a lifetime warranty). This should be an easy job to do but could somebody show me a video/picture/diagrams for it on my specific model, and i'm having trouble locating the oil filter on the 2015 nissan rogue which i'll diy oil change soon (1st one by the dealer).

and what's the wheel nut size on the rogue, is it 13/16"? thanks and anybody know about good wheel locks for it? i heard gorilla was a good brand but what about other brands, and should i get it from belle tire or the dealer as the dealer said every dealer has a master set/kit of it, or should i go with spline wheel locks from discount tire which are cheaper? my camry has steel wheels and i heard that wheel locks are more for aluminum/allow wheels and the store associate said i woulnd't be able to have wheel covers/hubcaps if i put wheel locks on my camry with steel wheels, is this right? so i'll just get them on the rogue, the taurus already has and came with wheel locks though it looks a little stripped, but i'm sure the ford dealer would be able to get me another key, right, that they copy from their master set, or would i have to remove the wheel locks and get a new set?

anyways, i need to do the blower motor resistor next
this is the video i'm referring to:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLtPIUjsMDs

 

[engineer20]

today, i went to another place to have it inspectd and they said it could be the blower motor switch. how do i know if it's the blower motor switch or the blower motor resistor? thanks.

 

[engineer20]

i took my camry into the dealership for an inspection and they forgot to put the radiator hose (maybe wrong name, but that thing you put in the reservoir) into the coolant reservoir! was this bad? some coolant was lost. they recommended cleaning the vents, is it worth it and is it DIY-able or should I have them do it, or is it just the cabin air filter? Thanks. vacuum the vents or something or induction cleaining, i forgot what it was called.

 

[engineer20]

? And how do u get to the back spark plugs on a v6 ford? I changed my 4 cyl camry spark plugs and it was easy but the back ones on a taurus seem hard to do. Oreillys said to get a universail joint for my socket so it can swivel around. Is thst right? Is there anything else I need and I had trouble with dropping the pan on the 09 taurus. Where is it and is it sideways? Also i saw a large 16oz permatex anti seize spray for spark plugs and that's larger than the small packets they usually sell but is it worth it? Or do you prefer the small packets and are there any intemediate sizes between the large spraycan and the small packets and if so, where are they sold? Thanks

 

[HangFire]

engineer20,

This is wallyuwl's 2003 Vibe thread. You'll have better luck getting answers to your questions if you start your own Taurus, Roge and Camry threads, one per problem, or at least one per vehicle.

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
? And how do u get to the back spark plugs on a v6 ford? I changed my 4 cyl camry spark plugs and it was easy but the back ones on a taurus seem hard to do. Oreillys said to get a universail joint for my socket so it can swivel around. Is thst right? Is there anything else I need and I had trouble with dropping the pan on the 09 taurus. Where is it and is it sideways? Also i saw a large 16oz permatex anti seize spray for spark plugs and that's larger than the small packets they usually sell but is it worth it? Or do you prefer the small packets and are there any intemediate sizes between the large spraycan and the small packets and if so, where are they sold? Thanks


On that V6, it is faster to take the upper intake plenum off. You can unbolt it and move it slightly, but at the point it is faster to remove it. Just install new o-rings. No anti-seize ever needed unless the FSM or a TSB instructs to use it.

 

[silveravant]

I just replace the spark plugs in a 2005 Taurus. I removed the cowl behind the engine. Not very hard. Still not a lot of room, but not too bad. Search for a u-tube video.

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: engineer20
? And how do u get to the back spark plugs on a v6 ford? I changed my 4 cyl camry spark plugs and it was easy but the back ones on a taurus seem hard to do. Oreillys said to get a universail joint for my socket so it can swivel around. Is thst right? Is there anything else I need and I had trouble with dropping the pan on the 09 taurus. Where is it and is it sideways? Also i saw a large 16oz permatex anti seize spray for spark plugs and that's larger than the small packets they usually sell but is it worth it? Or do you prefer the small packets and are there any intemediate sizes between the large spraycan and the small packets and if so, where are they sold? Thanks


On that V6, it is faster to take the upper intake plenum off. You can unbolt it and move it slightly, but at the point it is faster to remove it. Just install new o-rings. No anti-seize ever needed unless the FSM or a TSB instructs to use it.

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted By: silveravant
I just replace the spark plugs in a 2005 Taurus. I removed the cowl behind the engine. Not very hard. Still not a lot of room, but not too bad. Search for a u-tube video.


I've seen that done also. The intake plenum thing has less possible chances of breaking expensive dealer only parts.

 

[engineer20]

i see, it's much harder than on the l4 camry, so i'll wait 10k more miles and i'll probably have a mechanic do it. how many labor hours should I expect? i just paid a mechanic 40 to fix my blower motor resistor (i provided the part) and now it works, but what about the blend doors?
and is it bad to drive in the rain/dusty roads right after you rust proof and get the newly rust proofed oil dirty?