new to turbos...2016 Kia Sorento 2.0T
- Thread starter java
- Start date
I heard elsewhere that Hyundai-Kia cars do NOT have OLM's (Oil Life Monitor dash lights). Is that true on your cool (congrats, BTW) new Kia, the latest ones?
It does depend on driving style how many miles you go. Usually a 6 month oil change interval, regardless of mile or anything, is about right. Miles are almost meaningless, because there is maybe idling, short trips, high RPMs, etc. which age oil. This I learned from what car maker OLM algorithms use to determine oil degradation, where they count revolutions and/or fuel quantity used and/or hours, along with temperature and high rpm effects, etc. to determine when an oil is kaput.
As for a Kia in cold Ohio, you could go for M1 0w-30 (the "30" counts for hot operation, so same as 5w-30 in that respect) year around, a full-synthetic plenty tough enough. (If you drive it very hard, its usually good to go ahead and upgrade to M1 0w-40, an oil they actually use in racing many times.) Pick the best oil filter I've seen, a Fram Ultra, highest efficiency, capacity, wire-backed, dual layer synthetic media, to get the grit out.
It does depend on driving style how many miles you go. Usually a 6 month oil change interval, regardless of mile or anything, is about right. Miles are almost meaningless, because there is maybe idling, short trips, high RPMs, etc. which age oil. This I learned from what car maker OLM algorithms use to determine oil degradation, where they count revolutions and/or fuel quantity used and/or hours, along with temperature and high rpm effects, etc. to determine when an oil is kaput.
As for a Kia in cold Ohio, you could go for M1 0w-30 (the "30" counts for hot operation, so same as 5w-30 in that respect) year around, a full-synthetic plenty tough enough. (If you drive it very hard, its usually good to go ahead and upgrade to M1 0w-40, an oil they actually use in racing many times.) Pick the best oil filter I've seen, a Fram Ultra, highest efficiency, capacity, wire-backed, dual layer synthetic media, to get the grit out.
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Any 5w30 Synthetic will do well for you and provide good protection. Change it according to your owners manual.
I would go by the severe service interval in a direct injected and turbo charged engine personally. 5k miles is certainly a good number as well.
I would go by the severe service interval in a direct injected and turbo charged engine personally. 5k miles is certainly a good number as well.
Thanks...
Does not have OLM. Driver can program a miles / time based reminder.
My driving style is such that at most, I may accelerate hard onto the highway to merge.
I am a little older and always though turbos needed a heavy weight oil.
Your suggestion to look at time / mileage combination makes sense. I feel that I would change mine about every 4 months based on miles I drive.
Does not have OLM. Driver can program a miles / time based reminder.
My driving style is such that at most, I may accelerate hard onto the highway to merge.
I am a little older and always though turbos needed a heavy weight oil.
Your suggestion to look at time / mileage combination makes sense. I feel that I would change mine about every 4 months based on miles I drive.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Same 2.0T in my SFS. M1 5w30 will be just fine. I've used Edge 5w30 or 0w40 and Synpower in 5w30 or 10w30, each to 5k miles. Currently using Valvoline Conventional (VWB low calcium) in 5w30 (to 3k miles since now in severe svc that school traffic started). There has been some dicussion reference high Calcium oils contributing to low-speed-preignition. So your choice of M1, which is low Calcium, may be beneficial beyond your inquiry.
This SAE study has been dicussed at length before...
http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/
But now, through Pennzoil's Q & A, the topic came up again and they have answered it this way. Remember, SOPUS oils are rather laden with CaSa...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3836844/Pennzoil_Answers-Complete_Prot
Q: Could you address operators of GDI-Turbo vehicles regarding the effects of certain additives such as calcium and their impact on LSPI (low speed pre-ignition)? There's much discussion and concern by operators of these vehicles that Pennzoil's additive packages are predisposed to LSPI as compared to other brands.
A: Low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) is more a phenomenon of engine design – and as you mentioned, occurs more frequently in gasoline direct injection (GDI) turbocharged engines. It is really a phenomenon for prototype or experimental engines that are still in the Research & Development phase, and oils with high levels of calcium-based detergents can increase LSPI frequency. HOWEVER, by the time the engine is fully designed and released to the market, it must be compatible with the available motor oils in the marketplace. Thus said, there is no need for concern.
_________________________
This SAE study has been dicussed at length before...
http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/
But now, through Pennzoil's Q & A, the topic came up again and they have answered it this way. Remember, SOPUS oils are rather laden with CaSa...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3836844/Pennzoil_Answers-Complete_Prot
Q: Could you address operators of GDI-Turbo vehicles regarding the effects of certain additives such as calcium and their impact on LSPI (low speed pre-ignition)? There's much discussion and concern by operators of these vehicles that Pennzoil's additive packages are predisposed to LSPI as compared to other brands.
A: Low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) is more a phenomenon of engine design – and as you mentioned, occurs more frequently in gasoline direct injection (GDI) turbocharged engines. It is really a phenomenon for prototype or experimental engines that are still in the Research & Development phase, and oils with high levels of calcium-based detergents can increase LSPI frequency. HOWEVER, by the time the engine is fully designed and released to the market, it must be compatible with the available motor oils in the marketplace. Thus said, there is no need for concern.
_________________________
I haven't owned a Kia but admire their cars. I would like to see a sport model Soul with turbo motor.
If you're not spooling up that turbo and running to red line regularly then the oil is not getting beaten up either. Use the recommended oil in a synthetic and change base on mileage.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: wemay
Same 2.0T in my SFS. M1 5w30 will be just fine. I've used Edge 5w30 or 0w40 and Synpower in 5w30 or 10w30, each to 5k miles. Currently using Valvoline Conventional (VWB low calcium) in 5w30 (to 3k miles since now in severe svc that school traffic started). There has been some dicussion reference high Calcium oils contributing to low-speed-preignition. So your choice of M1, which is low Calcium, may be beneficial beyond your inquiry.
This SAE study has been dicussed at length before...
http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/
But now, through Pennzoil's Q & A, the topic came up again and they have answered it this way. Remember, SOPUS oils are rather laden with CaSa...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3836844/Pennzoil_Answers-Complete_Prot
Q: Could you address operators of GDI-Turbo vehicles regarding the effects of certain additives such as calcium and their impact on LSPI (low speed pre-ignition)? There's much discussion and concern by operators of these vehicles that Pennzoil's additive packages are predisposed to LSPI as compared to other brands.
A: Low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) is more a phenomenon of engine design – and as you mentioned, occurs more frequently in gasoline direct injection (GDI) turbocharged engines. It is really a phenomenon for prototype or experimental engines that are still in the Research & Development phase, and oils with high levels of calcium-based detergents can increase LSPI frequency. HOWEVER, by the time the engine is fully designed and released to the market, it must be compatible with the available motor oils in the marketplace. Thus said, there is no need for concern.
_________________________
What's your level of oil consumption? If it's negligible, then what would be the point of a low Ca oil? Furthermore, of the amount of oil consumed, what's the percentage of additive package contained, in the case of oil let past the oil control ring or in vapor form via PCV?
Same 2.0T in my SFS. M1 5w30 will be just fine. I've used Edge 5w30 or 0w40 and Synpower in 5w30 or 10w30, each to 5k miles. Currently using Valvoline Conventional (VWB low calcium) in 5w30 (to 3k miles since now in severe svc that school traffic started). There has been some dicussion reference high Calcium oils contributing to low-speed-preignition. So your choice of M1, which is low Calcium, may be beneficial beyond your inquiry.
This SAE study has been dicussed at length before...
http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/
But now, through Pennzoil's Q & A, the topic came up again and they have answered it this way. Remember, SOPUS oils are rather laden with CaSa...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3836844/Pennzoil_Answers-Complete_Prot
Q: Could you address operators of GDI-Turbo vehicles regarding the effects of certain additives such as calcium and their impact on LSPI (low speed pre-ignition)? There's much discussion and concern by operators of these vehicles that Pennzoil's additive packages are predisposed to LSPI as compared to other brands.
A: Low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) is more a phenomenon of engine design – and as you mentioned, occurs more frequently in gasoline direct injection (GDI) turbocharged engines. It is really a phenomenon for prototype or experimental engines that are still in the Research & Development phase, and oils with high levels of calcium-based detergents can increase LSPI frequency. HOWEVER, by the time the engine is fully designed and released to the market, it must be compatible with the available motor oils in the marketplace. Thus said, there is no need for concern.
_________________________
What's your level of oil consumption? If it's negligible, then what would be the point of a low Ca oil? Furthermore, of the amount of oil consumed, what's the percentage of additive package contained, in the case of oil let past the oil control ring or in vapor form via PCV?
Originally Posted By: java
Thanks...
Does not have OLM. Driver can program a miles / time based reminder.
My driving style is such that at most, I may accelerate hard onto the highway to merge.
I am a little older and always though turbos needed a heavy weight oil.
Your suggestion to look at time / mileage combination makes sense. I feel that I would change mine about every 4 months based on miles I drive.
Oil is a little funny when it comes to temperature profiles it sees. If short-tripped a lot, then the oil never gets warmed up to around 215 degF, the ideal temperature, to boil off the water combustion products from blow-by, cuz we know that burning gas creates water & C02 (and some other semi-oxidized stuff & HydroCarbs in smaller amounts). Water creates acids in the oil and degrades it, so a lot of short trips is the really bad driving cycle that requires maybe 3 month oil change intervals to avoid sludge, deposits.
Bottom line, if you're almost always driving more than 15 minutes each trip, then you can get by just fine with 6 month oil changes, or even go a full year if you use M1 Extended Performance or Castrol Edge gold jug or Amsoil SS.
Thanks...
Does not have OLM. Driver can program a miles / time based reminder.
My driving style is such that at most, I may accelerate hard onto the highway to merge.
I am a little older and always though turbos needed a heavy weight oil.
Your suggestion to look at time / mileage combination makes sense. I feel that I would change mine about every 4 months based on miles I drive.
Oil is a little funny when it comes to temperature profiles it sees. If short-tripped a lot, then the oil never gets warmed up to around 215 degF, the ideal temperature, to boil off the water combustion products from blow-by, cuz we know that burning gas creates water & C02 (and some other semi-oxidized stuff & HydroCarbs in smaller amounts). Water creates acids in the oil and degrades it, so a lot of short trips is the really bad driving cycle that requires maybe 3 month oil change intervals to avoid sludge, deposits.
Bottom line, if you're almost always driving more than 15 minutes each trip, then you can get by just fine with 6 month oil changes, or even go a full year if you use M1 Extended Performance or Castrol Edge gold jug or Amsoil SS.
I have a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0T--I've run Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 exclusively since the 2nd oil change, which flies in the face of the low-calcium crowd, but it's worked well in the PA temp extremes, as I'm sure Mobil 1 will perform just as well. I'd recommend 5000 miles / 6 months on synthetic.
t
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: Robster
I have a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0T--I've run Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 exclusively since the 2nd oil change, which flies in the face of the low-calcium crowd, but it's worked well in the PA temp extremes, as I'm sure Mobil 1 will perform just as well. I'd recommend 5000 miles / 6 months on synthetic.
Yes, it does Robster. And not just that, Hyundai has an agreement with SHELL to recommend its oils. Yet even SOPUS have acknowledged high Calcium levels possibly being responsible for LSPI. As gathermewool has added, it may be all-to-do-about-nothing if oil consumption isnt an issue. I say the same goes for Noack... no consumption/evaporation, no issue.
Lots of theories with GDi...
*Using Top Tier fuel and sticking with OEM oil recomendations (my current stance)
*Using GrpIV oils only
*Using low SAPs or Mid SAPs
*Using low TEOST GrpIII
*Using low Noack GrpIII at OEM recommended oci
*Using low Noack GrpIII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using GrpII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using oils containing the least amount of calcium additives (T-GDI)
*Use of Catch-Cans
http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/
http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turb...ig Hurdle.pdf
http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf
2015 article:
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2015/...n-engines-.html
BTW: Almost every GDI or T-GDI shows some dilution. I have yet to see a UOA pattern where excessive wear metals increase as a result.
I have a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0T--I've run Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 exclusively since the 2nd oil change, which flies in the face of the low-calcium crowd, but it's worked well in the PA temp extremes, as I'm sure Mobil 1 will perform just as well. I'd recommend 5000 miles / 6 months on synthetic.
Yes, it does Robster. And not just that, Hyundai has an agreement with SHELL to recommend its oils. Yet even SOPUS have acknowledged high Calcium levels possibly being responsible for LSPI. As gathermewool has added, it may be all-to-do-about-nothing if oil consumption isnt an issue. I say the same goes for Noack... no consumption/evaporation, no issue.
Lots of theories with GDi...
*Using Top Tier fuel and sticking with OEM oil recomendations (my current stance)
*Using GrpIV oils only
*Using low SAPs or Mid SAPs
*Using low TEOST GrpIII
*Using low Noack GrpIII at OEM recommended oci
*Using low Noack GrpIII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using GrpII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using oils containing the least amount of calcium additives (T-GDI)
*Use of Catch-Cans
http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/
http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turb...ig Hurdle.pdf
http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf
2015 article:
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2015/...n-engines-.html
BTW: Almost every GDI or T-GDI shows some dilution. I have yet to see a UOA pattern where excessive wear metals increase as a result.
Agreed Wemay. . . it should also be noted that I don't know of any incidents of LSPI occurring in production Hyunda / KIA vehicles, despite the millions of them on the road run by people less-knowledgeable than us BITOGers. As for fuel. . .I agree they should be run on quality fuel. I've run mine on 87 octane without issues, but I do get better gas mileage on highway trips with 93 octane (30-31 MPG at 65 mph,per fuel computer).
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Your point on octane doesn't fall of deaf ears. Our SFS 2.0T is the same. It runs beautifully on anything from 87 up to 93, but it does get mostly 89 or 93 Top Tier. The 2.4, on the other hand and although NA, runs better on 93. On 87 octane you hear faint pinging on throttle tip-in 3rd, 4th gears. HyundaiUSA and the dealership (they drove it) says this is normal and not to worry. I made them put it in writing and they did.
I'd watch those OCI intervals closely you don't want to lose that great warranty, they may require 3.750 mile OCI's regardless of lube used, at least they used to.
If that is still the case a good dexos blend or value full syn would be a good choice IMO.
Unless something has changed recently there is no "0x" anything in your manual, while they are fairly loose on oil specs I would not suggest picking one that is not listed at all. Sure an 0w30 would be fine but no real gain for a potential major downside that being warranty loss.
JMO.
If that is still the case a good dexos blend or value full syn would be a good choice IMO.
Unless something has changed recently there is no "0x" anything in your manual, while they are fairly loose on oil specs I would not suggest picking one that is not listed at all. Sure an 0w30 would be fine but no real gain for a potential major downside that being warranty loss.
JMO.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I'd watch those OCI intervals closely you don't want to lose that great warranty, they may require 3.750 mile OCI's regardless of lube used, at least they used to.
If that is still the case a good dexos blend or value full syn would be a good choice IMO.
Unless something has changed recently there is no "0x" anything in your manual, while they are fairly loose on oil specs I would not suggest picking one that is not listed at all. Sure an 0w30 would be fine but no real gain for a potential major downside that being warranty loss.
JMO.
If KIA is like Hyundai, the Turbo model's Severe Service OCi is actually 3,000. The NA are 3,750. Your points on warranty and accepted viscosity i agree with. This is why i ran 0w40 only once. The dealership put it in and the receipt made no mention of grade, but i won't do so again.
I'd watch those OCI intervals closely you don't want to lose that great warranty, they may require 3.750 mile OCI's regardless of lube used, at least they used to.
If that is still the case a good dexos blend or value full syn would be a good choice IMO.
Unless something has changed recently there is no "0x" anything in your manual, while they are fairly loose on oil specs I would not suggest picking one that is not listed at all. Sure an 0w30 would be fine but no real gain for a potential major downside that being warranty loss.
JMO.
If KIA is like Hyundai, the Turbo model's Severe Service OCi is actually 3,000. The NA are 3,750. Your points on warranty and accepted viscosity i agree with. This is why i ran 0w40 only once. The dealership put it in and the receipt made no mention of grade, but i won't do so again.
Hi my name is Steve, I’m new to this group, but not to Kia’s. This is our second Kia. But our first year with a turbo engine.
We have the 2016 Kia Sorrento GDI 2.0 turbo engine.
I have one question about the turbo. Do any of you know if the turbo is liquid cooled or oil cooled?
We have the 2016 Kia Sorrento GDI 2.0 turbo engine.
I have one question about the turbo. Do any of you know if the turbo is liquid cooled or oil cooled?
Looks to me like I didn’t word that properly. What is the main source of cooling of the turbo?
And you answered it for me. Oil, that being said, I’m gonna expect a lot more oil changes. My turbo engine in my Ford does not have oil cooler, it is liquid cooled only.
And you answered it for me. Oil, that being said, I’m gonna expect a lot more oil changes. My turbo engine in my Ford does not have oil cooler, it is liquid cooled only.
Are all SP oils now supposed to be less LSPI inducing?
Yes, LSPI reduction formulas since SN+.
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