Help me PREVENT rust in this wheel well..

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Was doing my fall wax on my Barcelona Red '13 Corolla and I thought ... "Hey I haven't seen much rust in evm the least cared for late model Corollas since about 2003." Then i felt and realized that the rear wells wisely have no curved lip or rubber flap.... Just a raw edge.

But then I thought ... How about ENSURING none with a spray?

I have:
Fluid Film
Corossion X
Corossion X HD
Boeshield T-9
TC-11

You can tell I've dropped some cash on my curiosity but have only used them to spot treat brake line nuts and bolts and specific welds... Never as a surface coating.
I'm wondering if spraying the inner wheel well lip will saturated the area and choke out rust potential or i it could actually trap a salt brine or grain of rock salt. I know well that the black rubber under coatings are counterproductive because they do saturate , lug and trap exactly what we don't want. And this these fluids are vastly better as they saturated and simply form a really filthy black greasy coating. Still I wonder would it saturate with brine and hold it against metal longer?

Common sense tells me to do it because this is exactly what the do with Krown in Canada in my understanding. Saturate and choke oxygen from the metal surface.

 
Corossion X HD is very resistant in high wash areas, but is pretty expensive. Fluid film doesn't last long in wheel wells.
 
Waxoyl is a good product, but not easily available this side of the pond.

I the past I have used a truck bed linner coating and backed it up with a gooey coat of Fluid film or whatever.
 
We also have a 2013 Corolla "S" in Barcelona Red. Good car, but the wife drives it. I hadn't even thought about rust in the wheelwells until you mentioned it, but we live in Southern California. It probably won't be an issue here.
 
I'd think you'd be fine just keeping the wheel wells rinsed with water.

Rust doesn't really grow in the dead of winter, it's actually much more likely to start in the later winter early spring. Regular washing of the car and underbody and you should be fine.

If you want, a spray like Rust Check Coat & Protect will be good. It's a thick product that sticks quite well ~ but wheel wells get a pretty aggressive amount of spray from the tires, so it might not last too long in that area.
 
I would think that an exposed vertical surface like your picture won't be the problem, it is the inner part that you cannot see that needs the oil spray. Carwell does a great job misting into a void and then creeping about 4-6"" in each direction. Fluid Film being thicker, would just not be washed off as easily in a high splash area like a thinner Carwell/Krown would do, but it can't get into the nooks and crannies of a void as good. Cawrell says it will not penetrate paint and glass, so that is why they wash them immediately after a treatment. The exposed metal is protected, but painted metal just washes it off. Makes you wonder if spraying a lightly rusted car is actually better than a brand new fully painted one with NO rust???

I would just rinse that area good with water during the winter and not worry.
 
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
Different question: What creates rust?

Humidity? ..
Yes GHT, humidity. Humidity causes rust. That's why there's so many rusty cars in Louisiana and Florida.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
Different question: What creates rust?

Humidity? ..
Yes GHT, humidity. Humidity causes rust. That's why there's so many rusty cars in Louisiana and Florida.


YAY GHT is back !
banana2.gif
 
Every time I wash my vehicles I reach inside/under the rear wheel arch and give the exposed metal a wash. It gets quite dirty. The exposed metal is a few inches wide (mostly vertical) on my Accord.

Was recently at the auto body shop with my Accord and they were surprised I had no rust there.

I've noticed that trucks especially rust through from the inside just above the rear wheel well. Don't suppose many have ever been washed on the inside. And there's a wide horizontal strip there too - just perfect for collecting gravel and salt, and staying damp.
 
I'd use Waxoyl or any other high quality wax coating. A thin layer woks best, because wax can get runny when it's hot and it's hard to remove when it gets onto areas where you don't want it. But in terms of rust protection that stuff rules. Perfect for undercarriage, sealing howllow areas, wheel arches and other areas that are out of sight.


http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/Products.aspx?code=WAX-001&key=cat
 
I'm a big fan of Fluid Film / undercoating must creep

But, when I bought my Ford Ranger in 2002, for lack of not knowing any better,
I coated the wheel wells with Never-Seize (aluminum).
I also coated:
* Brake Lines
* Shock Bolts
* Brake Bleeder Screws

As of today, no rust / brake lines look like brand new.
I think my Fluid Film applications keeps the Never-Seize from drying out.


If I didn't use Never-Seize, I would look into some type of Marine, water proof grease.
 
I would just take off the fenders and paint the underside real good. Only takes 20 minutes max to take a fender off.
 
Some years back I had a spray can of wire rope lube. The stuff fishermen use on our coastal waters.

It sprays on and penitrates very well, but then sets up like a semi hard tar.

I used it in the inner wheel arches of my Triumph, I just tested it, no cracks and still semi hard after 17 years!

I wish I remembered the brand.

Lots of wire rope lubes out there, and probably not expensive.
 
Just spray the road salt and sand off with fresh water and their will be no issues during the service life of the car.
 
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