Honda 2.4L Valve Adjustment - need help!

[The Critic]

Need some help. I did a valve adjust on the gf’s 2007 Accord EX last night. Mileage is 102k.

Prior to the adjustment, this engine was very very quiet. But it seemed a bit lacking in power compared to the other 2.4s I’ve driven. Vibration at idle was fine, maybe a bit on the higher side.

This is my first time adjusting valves.

When I did the inspection, all of the intake valves took the 0.008 gauge with a light amount of drag. I also tried the 0.009 gauge – more drag obviously. Based on what I could tell, the intake valves were probably in-spec but a little on the loose side. I’m not too sure of my capabilities so I decided to leave them alone. The spec for the intake valves is 0.008 to 0.010”.

On the other hand, the exhaust valves were all too tight. I loosened the screw about 30 deg on average, maybe 45 deg on one or two. The 0.012 gauge slides in/out with a light amount of drag. 0.013 will still fit in, but with a moderate amount of drag but would sort of “get caught” and the feel gauge would just get stuck. The spec for the exhaust valves is 0.011 to 0.013”.

I put it all back together, and here’s what I’m noticing:

- engine is noticeably more responsive

- but engine is much noisier.

- vibration at idle seems a bit less in gear, but more in Park/Neutral.

Not sure if I did it right. What do you guys think?

Thanks.

 

[eljefino]

You could have done a before-and-after compression test to see if you changed anything.

My 300D was way out, especially on the exhaust side, which they say is more subject to variation.

I'd take the car for a nice italian tuneup.

 

[Quest]

did you do the valve adjustment when engine cold? or warm?

Honda has been specifying engine valve adjustments to be performed when cold for quite some time now, and cold means summer (moderate) cold, engine room temp.

Q.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Quest
did you do the valve adjustment when engine cold? or warm?

Honda has been specifying engine valve adjustments to be performed when cold for quite some time now, and cold means summer (moderate) cold, engine room temp.

Q.


It was done stone-cold; the car sat for 9 hours outside, then I pulled the car inside at 10pm and did the valve adjustment. The valvetrain was cold/room-temp to the touch.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I was the go to guy for race bike ( zuki gixxer's) valve adjustment in the 80s and 90s.

#1 problem: Everyone who doesn't let the car/engine sit for at least a 1/2 day says the EX are check too tight, then they loosen them up too much.

Was the engine stone cold when you adjusted them? - No startup AT ALL for at least 12 hours?

My engine on my Nissan runs differently everytime I even remove the air filter for inspection

No really. So this could be an associated teardown tuneup issue.
Were wires and plugs removed? Plugs ABSOLUTELY require a new crush gasket every time they are R&R'd . Also, any plug handling must be with pristine clean gloves and socket rubbers.

Cheack ALL plumbing, especially post MAF air intake plumbing to be leak free.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Quest
did you do the valve adjustment when engine cold? or warm?

Honda has been specifying engine valve adjustments to be performed when cold for quite some time now, and cold means summer (moderate) cold, engine room temp.

Q.


It was done stone-cold; the car sat for 9 hours outside, then I pulled the car inside at 10pm and did the valve adjustment. The valvetrain was cold/room-temp to the touch.
I hope you pushed the car inside

That short startup is a no-no. Well, better too tight than too loose. Typ when ALL the EX are too tight - there is usually a engine temp problem or a mechanic technique problem. Yes EX will recede beut never seen them ALL do it. Still not being there, the lash could be OK and ther is just otrher issue or a relearn issue. Batt disco'd?

 

[BobFout]

Valve adjustments on a 2007 engine? It is not a hydraulic lifter setup? Solid lifters?!

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted By: BobFout
Valve adjustments on a 2007 engine? It is not a hydraulic lifter setup? Solid lifters?!

Honda has always used mechanical rocker arms to actuate their valves. Hydraulic lifters haven't really entered the Honda/Toyota realm until recently for the latter.

 

[Brybo86]

Which feeler guages did you use? The offset type? That what I had to use on my K24

Mine had sat inside in the unheated garage with hood open overnight , it was like 60 degrees overnight

My thread
here

 

[goodtimes]

Since you are questioning it, check them again, but with no running. Of course exhaust valves start to heat up almost instantly with even a few seconds run. If in spec, that's it, you're fine. Drag so you can feel tightness should be ok. I used to adjust the Honda and it was a little noisy. If it is totally quiet that is worse.

 

[spackard]

Did you recheck the clearance on each valve after torquing the locknut to the specified torque?

I find I get it close (actually very tight pull with the feeler gauge if I want to nail it the first time), torque to spec, measure again, then redo the clearance, torque, measure again, until it's right with the locknut torqued to spec.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Sorry meant better too loose than too tight

Being rushed to get to work and NOT post on BITOG

Too bad the engine is back together. You should always turn the engine and check clear on a couple places on the base circle.

You could have chosen a bit easier engine for a first time valve adjustment. I assume this is a SOHC with no VTEC? or just I intake valve with lost motion for economy setup?

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Sorry meant better too loose than too tight

Being rushed to get to work and NOT post on BITOG

Yup, also tight valves are always quiet. So it's no surprise that Critic could hear the difference. Since there was an obvious loss of power, the valves must've been quite tighter than spec.

 

[Chris142]

How much does the clearance change between say 60f and 100f? A little noise is better than a burned valve. I always set my stuff on the loose side anyway.

 

[circuitsmith]

I've owned 4 Hondas ('75 Civic, '81, '85, '88 Accords).
Adjusted valves on all of them.
First, parked car where work will be done, sits 12-18 hours.
Exhaust valves typically speced 0.010-0.12.
So I adjust so 0.010 feeler is loose (no drag) and 0.012 feeler is tight (moderate drag).

 

[mclasser]

Unless the upper engine has a lot of chatter, you should just leave the valves alone, especially on Hondas. More harm than good can be done when fiddling with them.

The lack of power can be due to anything from a dirty air filter or throttle body, to not using Top Tier gas.

 

[Brybo86]

Originally Posted By: mclasser
you should just leave the valves alone, especially on Hondas. More harm than good can be done when fiddling with them.


Wrong. This statement is only true for you lesser incompetent sallys.

Valve adjustment is very straight forward. Much easier than timing belt or starter replacement on my Lexus


I had never adjusted valves before I did them on my Honda and I noticed an immediate 2 mpg which brought me back to stock fuel economy.

 

[Voltmaster]

My family owned 3 hondas never done valve adjustment , never had issues. Oldest one is 00 with 178k.

Unless there is a performance problem there is no need. Its a honda you put gas in it and drive it.

Good luck with your search.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
the exhaust valves were all too tight.

Very suspicious. If ALL of them were tight, I strongly suspect an issue with the method used to position the cam lobes before adjustment.

Honda's "factory approved" method is a bit difficult for those without lots of experience. There is an easier way.

Can you please describe how you aligned the lobes, and what positions they were in for each adjustment? You can use "clock" descriptions, with straight-up-to-the-sky being 12:00.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: The Critic
the exhaust valves were all too tight.

Very suspicious. If ALL of them were tight, I strongly suspect an issue with the method used to position the cam lobes before adjustment.

Honda's "factory approved" method is a bit difficult for those without lots of experience. There is an easier way.

Can you please describe how you aligned the lobes, and what positions they were in for each adjustment? You can use "clock" descriptions, with straight-up-to-the-sky being 12:00.


I used the factory approved method. The lobes were pointing at about 9-10?

What other methods would you recommend?