Which oil Kia Optima

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 31, 2015
Messages
19
Location
Australia
Hello all,

I'd love some advice from you oil aficionados.

I've recently bought a second hand 2012 2.4L GDI Kia Optima with 53,000km on the clock (33k miles) and i'm wanting to change the oil from the Castrol Magnatec the dealership is using to Pennzoil ultimate platinum.

The issue is I live in Australia and over here Pennzoil ultimate platinum is sold under the Shell Helix Ultra range. Shell Australia customer service representatives keep giving me different opinions on which Helix ultra product is the equivalent. I've had a look at the oil specifications and its all super confusing and I can't figure out which one to go for. The most recommended by their customer support people is the Helix Ultra AF- 5w-30 and the AG 5w-30.

The car manual just says to use 5W30 oil which meets API SM and ILSAC GF-4 standards

Pennzoil specifications document
http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Pennzoil-Ultra-Platinum-5W-30-SN-GF-5-en-TDS.pdf

Shell specifications link.
http://www.epc.shell.com

Click your language
Choose Australia as the country
In the first grey box search for Helix Ultra
Select All of the above in the next section
Hit search
http://www.epc.shell.com

Would really appreciate it if you could help me figure out which one is the closes equivalent.
 
I can see two choices. Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5w-30 is probably the absolute closest. It doesn't say anything about SM or SN or GF-4 or GF-5, but it does say ACEA A5/B5 and it's a very recent sheet. Something with an A5/B5 would be the closest to PU, since SM/GF-4 or SM/GF-5 can be met without meeting even A1/B1 standards, let alone A5/B5.

The other option is Shell Helix Ultra AJ 5w-30, which is an A1/B1 SN/GF-5 dexos1 lube. That should also be pretty close. As to which of the two is actually the same thing in the bottle isn't obviously certain.

Nothing else fits, including the AG, since those are all heavier lubes meeting different ACEA specifications altogether, particularly ACEA specs that would preclude SM/GF-4 or newer.

For your application, I would use either product I listed, based upon availability and cost. I wouldn't prefer one over the other outside of cost, given your vehicle's requirements.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
I can see two choices. Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5w-30 is probably the absolute closest. It doesn't say anything about SM or SN or GF-4 or GF-5, but it does say ACEA A5/B5 and it's a very recent sheet. Something with an A5/B5 would be the closest to PU, since SM/GF-4 or SM/GF-5 can be met without meeting even A1/B1 standards, let alone A5/B5.

The other option is Shell Helix Ultra AJ 5w-30, which is an A1/B1 SN/GF-5 dexos1 lube. That should also be pretty close. As to which of the two is actually the same thing in the bottle isn't obviously certain.

Nothing else fits, including the AG, since those are all heavier lubes meeting different ACEA specifications altogether, particularly ACEA specs that would preclude SM/GF-4 or newer.

For your application, I would use either product I listed, based upon availability and cost. I wouldn't prefer one over the other outside of cost, given your vehicle's requirements.


Thank you so much !! honestly I really do appreciate it.

The shell Helix oil you recommend how different would you say it is to Pennzoil Platinum ?
Whilst I can't buy the Platinum ultra here I can buy the platinum and the literature does mention great for direct injection engines. So perhaps I should buy the platinum over the ultra ?
 
Although the PUP is more expensive than the Platinum and is positioned as a "better" product, Shell doesn't do a fantastic job about differentiating the product, since they both meet the same specifications and advertise only OEM drain intervals, unlike the competition from Castrol and Mobil.

I'm sure the Platinum would do just fine, too. I'd be interested how similarly the AJ and the Platinum are priced in your locale. The AJ is an older data sheet and seems to have much of the same specifications as the previous iteration of Pennzoil Platinum did. At one point, Ultra wasn't dexos1 whereas Platinum was.

I'd be tempted to buy by price. Ultra is virtually unobtainable up here, and the few places that do sell it are totally out to lunch.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Although the PUP is more expensive than the Platinum and is positioned as a "better" product, Shell doesn't do a fantastic job about differentiating the product, since they both meet the same specifications and advertise only OEM drain intervals, unlike the competition from Castrol and Mobil.

I'm sure the Platinum would do just fine, too. I'd be interested how similarly the AJ and the Platinum are priced in your locale. The AJ is an older data sheet and seems to have much of the same specifications as the previous iteration of Pennzoil Platinum did. At one point, Ultra wasn't dexos1 whereas Platinum was.

I'd be tempted to buy by price. Ultra is virtually unobtainable up here, and the few places that do sell it are totally out to lunch.


I think I might have found a way to get some up here at an affordable price but i'm not sure if all Pennzoil Ultra Platinum sold in the US 5w30 is the same?

The AJ over here is $55US for a 5.2 quart bottle
Pennzoil Platinum for me is $50US for a 6 quarts bottle
Pennzoil Platinum Ultra is $120US for 6 quarts
 
It would be pretty hard to be sure it's the same, unless Shell were to confirm that, but the pricing is even worse than up here.
wink.gif
The Platinum Ultra would have to do something pretty darned fantastic at well over double the price of the other two options.
 
FWIW I can get the Ultra and I choose the Platinum over it. It works great. I know it's not apples to apples for you in Australia. I just have no reason to switch to the more expensive Ultra. PP works well in my 2.4 GDI.
 
Last edited:
Pennzoil Platinum would be my pick. Funny though how this engine is speced for 5W-30 in Australia but in the US Kia recommends 5W-20 (5W-30 is listed as well as a second choice).

The engines could be different but the horsepower is the same as is the sump capacity.

I use 5W-30 in my mom's 2011 Hyundai 2.4 GDI all year round since it's a short tripper only.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Pennzoil Platinum would be my pick. Funny though how this engine is speced for 5W-30 in Australia but in the US Kia recommends 5W-20 (5W-30 is listed as well as a second choice).

The engines could be different but the horsepower is the same as is the sump capacity.

I use 5W-30 in my mom's 2011 Hyundai 2.4 GDI all year round since it's a short tripper only.



I've been told the 5w-20 is just for fuel economy. To me 5w-20 just seems like too thin a oil for warmish climates.
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Pennzoil Platinum would be my pick. Funny though how this engine is speced for 5W-30 in Australia but in the US Kia recommends 5W-20 (5W-30 is listed as well as a second choice).

The engines could be different but the horsepower is the same as is the sump capacity.

I use 5W-30 in my mom's 2011 Hyundai 2.4 GDI all year round since it's a short tripper only.


I agree, go ahead and get the Pennz Platinum for $50U.S., best choice, although, the AJ is fine too. Ummm, "...since its a short tripper.."; A 0w-20 in that application is best for a short tripper, since the oil spends a lot of time cold, and remember, that car will see thicker oil way too much during those short drive cycles.
 
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Pennzoil Platinum would be my pick. Funny though how this engine is speced for 5W-30 in Australia but in the US Kia recommends 5W-20 (5W-30 is listed as well as a second choice).

The engines could be different but the horsepower is the same as is the sump capacity.

I use 5W-30 in my mom's 2011 Hyundai 2.4 GDI all year round since it's a short tripper only.


I agree, go ahead and get the Pennz Platinum for $50U.S., best choice, although, the AJ is fine too. Ummm, "...since its a short tripper.."; A 0w-20 in that application is best for a short tripper, since the oil spends a lot of time cold, and remember, that car will see thicker oil way too much during those short drive cycles.


Fuel dilution is the main thing stopping me from using a 0W-20 or 5W-20 since it cuts down the viscosity. I typically use M1 or Castrol 5W-30 at 5K OCIs.
 
3,750 for the 2.4L / 5w20 (same engine as Optima in question)
3,000 for the 2.0T / 5w30 (mostly synthetic in the past - SynPower or Edge and 5,000 miles)

Both on SN/GF-5 Valvoline. Since the start of the school year, the Monday thru Friday traffic creap has started again so i'm going to continue doing it by the USA Owners Manual's recomendations for viscosity, certifications and OCi.

Any of the oils you are considering would be more than adequate and serve your Optima very well. Enjoy the vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Fuel dilution is the main thing stopping me from using a 0W-20 or 5W-20 since it cuts down the viscosity. I typically use M1 or Castrol 5W-30 at 5K OCIs.

Thats a sound plan. You are right, fuel dilution can sneak in there for short tripping. Make oil changes seasonal, so that as soon as March 1 comes, change the oil if the winter thinned it too much, and maybe use M1 0w-30 for more VI for short trips anyway. An option is to add half bottle of STP Engine Treatment (mostly just a thickener) or Lucas Oil Stabilizer (half bottle, again mostly simply a thickener) if fuel dilution is expected in the middle of an OCI, and KV100 will be bumped up 1 or 2 centistokes, if you want to use a 0w-20 but are concerned about visc loss.
 
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Fuel dilution is the main thing stopping me from using a 0W-20 or 5W-20 since it cuts down the viscosity. I typically use M1 or Castrol 5W-30 at 5K OCIs.

Thats a sound plan. You are right, fuel dilution can sneak in there for short tripping. Make oil changes seasonal, so that as soon as March 1 comes, change the oil if the winter thinned it too much, and maybe use M1 0w-30 for more VI for short trips anyway. An option is to add half bottle of STP Engine Treatment (mostly just a thickener) or Lucas Oil Stabilizer (half bottle, again mostly simply a thickener) if fuel dilution is expected in the middle of an OCI, and KV100 will be bumped up 1 or 2 centistokes, if you want to use a 0w-20 but are concerned about visc loss.


Hi Swift101
Don't you drive a Turbo Sonata? Isn't the lowest viscosity the Sonata 2.0T call for, a 5w30? Why is any xw20 being considered?
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Hi Swift101
Don't you drive a Turbo Sonata? Isn't the lowest viscosity the Sonata 2.0T call for, a 5w30? Why is any xw20 being considered?
Swift's Mom's Hyundai-Kia engine, not his.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: wemay
Hi Swift101
Don't you drive a Turbo Sonata? Isn't the lowest viscosity the Sonata 2.0T call for, a 5w30? Why is any xw20 being considered?
Swift's Mom's Hyundai-Kia engine, not his.


Ah, thanks for the clarification, ExMachina.
 
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for your help !

In the end I ended up going with the Ultra Platinum due to it being a better oil and the price was just a bit more. Most of my trips are 5 - 10 miles (not sure if you'd clarify this as short) with a bit of stop start so wanted the better oil for the greater protection. Although i'm not sure if this might be a bit overkill even if the engine has direct injection.
 
2010 Hyundai 2.4L 90k on the clock.
Fill cap has 5w-20. I been using 5w-30 (PYB) year around and been doing 5k OCIs. At about 5k I notice a little more cold start noise so I don't push it further although I can't smell any fuel in the oil when changing oil. If I went 7.5k I'd use synthetic (i.e. PP), but that's just me - I find it easy to remember the 5k OCIs.
And I've stuck to the OEM filters which are good quality.

Soon I'll have 100k on the clock and will then decide to keep going or change up on oil/OCI intervals. Never had to add during the 5k intervals.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top