What oil to use for an Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVT-i ?

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Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Ah, okay.

Back to an ACEA A3 xw-30 for me!


Laugh !!!

d00df00d I was with you on that ride the whole way.

Yes, what he said.

I would use any name brand, full synthetic, A3/B4, 5W-30 oil.

That Supra Turbo engine is a good piece of kit. Congratulations.
 
Originally Posted By: afree
The engine is from a 1999-2005 Japanese Toyota Aristo, which is similar to the twin turbo Supra engine, but utilizes variable valve timing. I know the Supra specifies API SH 10W-30, but that is for a non-VVT-i engine.


I believe this is the same engine as the 1998 Supra Turbo.

But it doesn't matter... Toyota didn't change the oil recommendations for the 2JZ-GTE engines VVTi or not.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Ah, okay.

Back to an ACEA A3 xw-30 for me!


Laugh !!!

d00df00d I was with you on that ride the whole way.

Yes, what he said.

I would use any name brand, full synthetic, A3/B4, 5W-30 oil.

That Supra Turbo engine is a good piece of kit. Congratulations.


Thank you. its a great engine, especially with the the VVT-i.

Since GC isn't too easy to find these days, are there any good examples of a good A3/A4 5w-30? I'm using Amsoil SS now and its A1/AB1 A5/B5. Next I can think of is going M1 0w-40.

Also (may be a bit off subject here) from doing some reading on grades, temps etc., it seems that there isnt too much of a difference in viscosity when comparing a 0w-30 to a 5w-30 at lower temps (comparing grades to the 40 deg C values). Am I missing something? I realize that its not 100 degs F here in FL all the time buts fairly close when talking cold start ups.

Thanks
 
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If you plan on turning up the boost, I'd go with M1 0w40.

If you're keeping power stock, I'd go with GC 0w30 or M1 High Mileage 10w30 (this has similar zinc and HTHS as GC, and higher HTHS than M1 HM 5w30).
 
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Looks like the consensus is M1 0W-40. I picked some up at Walmart for $23 for a 5 qt jug. Pretty good deal. Contemplating dumping out my 5W-30 Amsoil SS (1,000 mi on it) for the M1. I'm afraid I may be doing more hard than good since I'm running it so hard here in the FL summer.
 
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Also, how well is the M1 0W-40 at cleaning? This motor has probably been sitting for years in a scrap yard here/Japan. There is some varnish when looking through the valve cover. Or will the Amsoil be good for this as well.



Note: The cover/baffle itself is clean because and was removed, cleaned/prepped and powder coated blake.
 
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Hey Mate,

I think your M1 0W40 is Euro ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 rated, while your Amsoil SS is A1/B1, A5/B5 rated. If that is the case then yes the M1 is a stronger oil with a higher HTHS. It should protect your turbo engine better if you are pushing it hard.

As for cleaning, many say full synthetics at short OCI are a good and gentle way of cleaning an engine.

All points to changing out the Amsoil early, and maybe a few short OCIs on the M1.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Hey Mate,

I think your M1 0W40 is Euro ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 rated, while your Amsoil SS is A1/B1, A5/B5 rated. If that is the case then yes the M1 is a stronger oil with a higher HTHS. It should protect your turbo engine better if you are pushing it hard.

As for cleaning, many say full synthetics at short OCI are a good and gentle way of cleaning an engine.

All points to changing out the Amsoil early, and maybe a few short OCIs on the M1.


Good info thanks!

Think any damage has been done with the less-stout oil? I guess its hard to ask that without a UOA. I also dynoed the car on the Amsoil.
 
Also, would the 0W-40 something I can use all year here in FL? We do get some cold days but not too terribly often.
 
I noticed a bit more engine noise on cold start ups than normal compared to the 5W-30. There was also a bit of noise on cold starts (especially since it sits for a few days at a time) and goes away after a few seconds once the pressure builds (oil light goes off), but the 0W-40 seems to make it louder. Is this something to be concerned with?
 
What oil filter are you using? Is it the same as your previous one?

Even in the cars I don't use frequently, I never see the oil light do anything but immediately shut off. I only see that kind of behaviour after an oil change.
 
Same filter, OEM Toyota V8 filter. It did the same thing before and I beleive its a side effect of the swap. I think the oil pressure sensor is from the previous motor and may be different than the current motor. I will try and confirm.
 
Just found this info regarding the main bearings ib the 2JZ:

Mains: Standard clearance 0.026-0.040 mm (0.0010-0.0016 in) Max clearance 0.06 mm (0.0024 in)

Does this change any recommendations?
 
ok, I recently installed an oil gauge. Any tips/advise on what to look for for this particular application?
 
I just sold my 2jz-ge stock IS300. Back in Motherland I know a lot of guys who have the aristo engine in their cars. Siberian guys stick to Mobil 1 0w40. Western Russia sticks to Castrol 5w50 or similar. 2JZ (both GE and GTE) respond REALLY well overall to heavier weights, all things considered aside from fuel economy, but 2jz is not known for being fuel efficient anyway. I have used both listed oils and in my IS300 the Castrol 5w50 was definitely a winner. Super smooth engine operation, no varnish whatsoever, fuel economy same as with 5w30 HM oils, and no oil consumption (or at least it was unnoticable in 5k mile OCIs). With the turbo it could be even more beneficial in terms of wear protection. Just my two cents.
 
I have a big turbo 1JZ in my BMW, and I have decided to run Royal Purple HPS 10W-40. Keep in mind the JZ engine does not have a roller valve-train, so higher levels of anti-wear additives are welcome.
 
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