Pennzoil platinum 5w30 in generator

[meborder]

Got a 3800 watt generator that never really gets used and some PP left over with no desire to use it in anything in particular so I put I in the generator.

It's a Subaru robin engine (7hp?) single cylinder and loud as all Hades. Mostly it is a stand by to insure I never need it to run the house in the winter during a storm. Although Las week I used It for a couple hours to do some fencing. Ran a skil saw, drill, and electric impact gun.

Hoping the PP will provide good starts in extreme cold and will require very infrequent changes (spanning many years)

Thoughts?

 

[NH73]

The biggest thing of using a synthetic oil is its ability to hold up in those long runs when the power is off for a couple of days. Yeah, nothing wrong with what you did.

 

[tinmanSC]

That's actually what I'm running now in my 5600 watt generator too. I only use it maybe 1-2 times a year.

 

[crainholio]

I'm not a fan of running SM/SN automotive oils in air-cooled splash-lubed small engines as a general rule, but that decision is strictly subjective. I have no data to specifically state that it's a bad thing.

Here's my thinking: extreme pressure lubricant additives such as ZDPP are known to be a vital part of splash-lube design strategy, as there's no pressurized oil feed at the bearings. SM and SN specs cut ZDDP quantities quite a bit. Maybe it's still enough, maybe not. I've seen what SM oil did to older flat-tappet cams in car engines firsthand and it was enough to give me a moment of pause. Granted, these are iron cam lobes with steel lifters riding on them...not exactly apples to apples for OPE applications.

 

[R80RS]

Originally Posted By: crainholio
I'm not a fan of running SM/SN automotive oils in air-cooled splash-lubed small engines as a general rule, but that decision is strictly subjective. I have no data to specifically state that it's a bad thing.

Here's my thinking: extreme pressure lubricant additives such as ZDPP are known to be a vital part of splash-lube design strategy, as there's no pressurized oil feed at the bearings. SM and SN specs cut ZDDP quantities quite a bit. Maybe it's still enough, maybe not. I've seen what SM oil did to older flat-tappet cams in car engines firsthand and it was enough to give me a moment of pause. Granted, these are iron cam lobes with steel lifters riding on them...not exactly apples to apples for OPE applications.

I agree with this opinion. A great alternative to the top shelf SN synthetics for OPE is a HDEO like Rotella T5. At $16/gallon, it is a less expensive option for a stout, high ZDDP OPE oil.

 

[crainholio]

Originally Posted By: R80RS
I agree with this opinion. A great alternative to the top shelf SN synthetics for OPE is a HDEO like Rotella T5. At $16/gallon, it is a less expensive option for a stout, high ZDDP OPE oil.


T5 synth-blend and T6 5W-40 synthetic are what I use in my OPE, and previously it was Valvoline VR-1 10W-30. Just can't get VR as cheap as T6.

This includes my Honda inverter generator that did 5 days continuous use after the 2011 snowstorm and 12 days after Sandy in 2012. Oil changes every 3 days just to be safe. Also my snowblower and lawnmower.

Catching sales at Tractor Supply gets me T6 at $17/gallon. The snowblower pull-starts without drama every time regardless of temp including the occasional -5degF blast.

 

[R80RS]

Originally Posted By: crainholio
Originally Posted By: R80RS
I agree with this opinion. A great alternative to the top shelf SN synthetics for OPE is a HDEO like Rotella T5. At $16/gallon, it is a less expensive option for a stout, high ZDDP OPE oil.


T5 synth-blend and T6 5W-40 synthetic are what I use in my OPE, and previously it was Valvoline VR-1 10W-30. Just can't get VR as cheap as T6.

This includes my Honda inverter generator that did 5 days continuous use after the 2011 snowstorm and 12 days after Sandy in 2012. Oil changes every 3 days just to be safe. Also my snowblower and lawnmower.

Catching sales at Tractor Supply gets me T6 at $17/gallon. The snowblower pull-starts without drama every time regardless of temp including the occasional -5degF blast.

 

[bubbatime]

Did everyone miss the part where the OP lives in North Dakota? He might have to start that thing when its COLD.

That synthetic 5W30 will be fine. I'd opt for a heavy duty 0W30 if readily available. If not, than Mobil 0W30 would be good.

 

[meborder]

Thanks for all the replies.

Yea cold starting abilities are paramount. If I need it to run the furnace, it could very well be -20f. I looked for a good 0w but the only thing readily available is M1 AFE which I was told was a less than optimal choice. I have since found castrol edge black bottle on 0w30 so maybe that's an option.

Worried about going to a 40w (like 0w40 M1 euro) just because the oil may never really warm up in the extreme cold. Owners manual suggests 5w20 for extreme cold, which I could do bit then it puts a upper limit of 30f on the 20wt.

Was thinking the synthetic 5w30 is a good compromise.

What I should do is try to start it some evening when it gets that cold just to see what it does and how hard it starts. Would be interesting to get an oil temp too after running for a while.

Usually when it is that stinking cold though, I don't play outside any more than the minimum.

 

[NH73]

Originally Posted By: meborder

Was thinking the synthetic 5w30 is a good compromise.


I wouldn't call it a good compromise, I call it a good choice. Look at Briggs & Stratton owners manuals, and they recommend 5w30 synthetic oil for all temperatures. There really is nothing that much different in there engines. There engineers were the only one so far to recognized the potential of 5w30 synthetic and tested and recommended.

 

[crainholio]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Did everyone miss the part where the OP lives in North Dakota? He might have to start that thing when its COLD.


His profile says South Dakota, but I still take your point about the cold.

The only problem we had after Sandy when the Nor'Easter snow and cold blast hit was fuel line icing. I had my gen in an improvised shelter and running, but it still somehow got water in the fuel system and iced up. Same for my neighbor running my old Kipor/McColluch 2K inverter. Had to resort to a shot glass of methanol-based fuel drier and a vigorous shaking w/ the drain open to get them back online.

Also had a Yamaha 2400W inverter running 10W-40 Yamalube per spec and it started just fine at -5degF. That's a nice generator but the fuel tank was just too small at ~1.4gal, and it's gravity-fed so no easy way to feed fuel from an external tank.

 

[crainholio]

Another option to consider: Mobil-1 High Mileage 5W-30 or even 5W-20. These have the extra ZDDP in the additive package, and will flow at super cold temps.

 

[meborder]

I might look at getting some of that. I did not consider zddp in any form and how a splash lubricated engine benefits from the extra zddp loads in oil.

If I could find a good 5w in a hdeo is be all about it. I switched the mowers over to mystik 10w30 hdeo but I don't need those in the winter. The generator is a different story. If I need it, I'm going to need it to start at very low temps at all cost.

Babygirl comes home today and we are going to freeze to death for lack of the "right" oil.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

 

[tig1]

Good choice for your Subaru engine. I use M1 10-30 in my 5KW gen with a Subaru engine.

 

[jeepman3071]

I second the use of HDEO in small air cooled engines. The oil doesn't burn off as easily. Starting isn't a problem. The only time I ever had a problem starting a small engine because of oil was a snowblower that someone put straight 30 weight oil in and the temp was -10* F. The blower did eventually start after a few pulls.

I run Rotella T6 5w40 in my Coleman Powermate generator with an old 8HP Briggs flathead. Last winter I test started it before a storm, and at 5* F it started first pull after sitting for months. As long as you don't use a straight 30 weight or 15w40 you should be fine.

 

[crainholio]

Originally Posted By: meborder

If I could find a good 5w in a hdeo is be all about it. I switched the mowers over to mystik 10w30 hdeo but I don't need those in the winter. The generator is a different story. If I need it, I'm going to need it to start at very low temps at all cost.


Mobil-1 High Mileage is a good option in 5W-30 flavor. Has the extra zinc & phosphorous and a good HTHS rating.

Also consider either Shell Rotella T6 in 5W-40, or Mobil-1 Turbo Diesel Truck in same viscosity. They're thicker at cold temps than the 5W-30 will be, which may be a consideration for you.

 

[Whimsey]

Originally Posted By: crainholio


Mobil-1 High Mileage is a good option in 5W-30 flavor. Has the extra zinc & phosphorous and a good HTHS rating.


Being in SD I'm sure your winters are some what brutal

. If your generator is stored in an unheated location the Mobil 1 HM 5W-30 will allow easier starting and also work in the summer just fine.

Whimsey