Camber Gauges

[The Critic]

Greetings -

I am looking to buy a camber gauge. Main reason for the purpose is to allow me to get the camber back into spec (or close to) after doing a strut replacement.

So far, I have found this one:
http://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=81139

What do you folks recommend?

Thanks.

 

[LubeLuke]

Originally Posted By: The Critic

What do you folks recommend?

I recommend not using a camber gauge.
A large measuring (or carpenters) square can be used to calculate the camber of the wheel or in this case the disc rotor.
It's the same concept as measuring for your toe (in). Cheap and effective method.

If you are looking for performance then in most cases you will just set the camber bolts to maximum camber. Because on most vehicles the maximum camber setting with factory hardware is only 1.5 or 2 degrees. Completely fine for daily driving.
You will also realise that having uneven camber really does not matter, when it is a trade off against performance.

 

[Shannow]

Critic, I agree with LubeLuke.

Back in the day I made my own jig, out of timber, that I placed against the machined edge of the rims, where the shop ones went.

Place a spirit level on it, and pull the top of the timber away from the rim (Bottom of the timber still on the rim)...measure the gap, then simple trig (Opposite/Hypotenuse) gave you the camber.

It cost $5 with level.

 

[Silk]

I have one of those somewhere...never used it. We used to use a better one for wheel aligments, but it did caster as well, so much more useful.

 

[Traction]

 

[Traction]

I have a Longacre caster/camber gauge with a magnetic adaptor. They can be bought for under $120, and work great! Many placed have them online.
http://www.amazon.com/Longacre-Magnetic-...ng+camber+gauge

 

[Silk]

Yes, that's the one we used - you need turntables to do the caster. With that and some Dunlop toe-in guages we were able to set things up pretty well in the '90's.

 

[Traction]

Originally Posted By: Silk
Yes, that's the one we used - you need turntables to do the caster. With that and some Dunlop toe-in guages we were able to set things up pretty well in the '90's.

You do have to have turntables for caster. The gauge has 2 20 degree surfaces machined on it. Just a matter of laying out 2 parallel lines on the floor on both sides of the car, and line it up using a straight edge on the gauge. Works great. Trammel bar works for toe.

 

[Traction]

Originally Posted By: Traction
Originally Posted By: Silk
Yes, that's the one we used - you need turntables to do the caster. With that and some Dunlop toe-in guages we were able to set things up pretty well in the '90's.

You do have to have turntables for caster. The gauge has 2 20 degree surfaces machined on it. Just a matter of laying out 2 parallel lines on the floor on both sides of the car, and line it up using a straight edge on the gauge. Works great. Trammel bar works for toe.

Sorry, couldn't get logged back in. I meant with the Longacre gauge you, DO NOT need turntables. Also helps to put something slippery under the tires to turn the wheels back and forth, while checking caster.

 

[Silk]

For home use you could do that, but if you are charging a customer for your time, that's a lot of wasted time. We also had a rig that fitted to the wheel rim so we could do cars where we couldn't attach the guage.

 

[Traction]

Originally Posted By: Silk
For home use you could do that, but if you are charging a customer for your time, that's a lot of wasted time. We also had a rig that fitted to the wheel rim so we could do cars where we couldn't attach the guage.

Yes, if I was trying to make a living doing alignments, I would need to spend $30k. But with a little time, thought, and $120, you can do better than some techs with the best equipment, or get it a lot closer than guessing. I only do alignments on my hotrod. Anything else, I try to find someone good. On some cars, it is nice to test, and try it on your own to get it dialed in for what you want it to do. Talking older cars, not a 4 wheel alignment, and trying to get something close after repairs of course.

 

[Snoman002]

I have spent a bit of time doing alignments at home, it's time consuming but the results seem to be fine.

Camber is by far the easiest to measure. As said, just a straight chunk of material and a carpenters level.

Caster on the other hand, that's a bit more involved. It can be done however with some practice and a digital level. I personally use a cell phone, the sensors in them have become quite good.

 

[The Critic]

Quick update:

I installed a pair of SPC adjustable rear upper control arms on my gf's 2007 Accord.

The vehicle had been aligned several months ago for a different reason, so I have a print-out with where the alignment angles were before I did the rear arm installation.

For comparison purposes, I used the gauge for the L/R corner, but not the R/R. For the R/R, I manually (a.k.a eyeball/tape-measure) made sure that the arms were roughly the same length.

After recent alignment, before install of arms:

L/R camber: -1.3 deg
L/R toe: 0.01 deg

R/R camber: -1.5 deg
R/R toe: 0.05 deg

Before alignment, after install of arms:
L/R camber: -1.7 deg
L/R toe: 0.02

R/R camber: -3.1 deg
R/R toe: 0.19

In summary, the gauge definitely serves a purpose -- it gets you close to where you were before. I used the gauge to fine-tune the length of the L/R adjustable arm once it was installed back into the vehicle. Clearly the gauge allowed me to get the alignment back in the "ballpark." But by no means was it an appropriate substitute for a proper laser alignment.