can additives make a worn & hurt engine driveable

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I was pleasantly surprised to see no blow by coming out of the oil fill yesterday. Something must have finally taken hold. The restore? I did add a quart of supertech 20w50 recently.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Yeah the restore plugs the filter and fills the cylinder walls with copper to build compression.


So be it. Its running strong. I'll take some video of the shaker torquing over.

The filter probably has tears, so no worries there. Flow thru should be acceptable.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
I'm guessing the thick oil is adding enough drag to the system to slow the idle?


Ughh, that's just painful. This engine might have been easily rebuilt (who knows). The odds of that being the case are much, much smaller now. I don't get it but hey it's your ride. Enjoy, I guess?

Per your "this being an oil site" comment, I think that most on here are looking to prolong the health of their engine or increase performance. Not sludge it up with tar in a can. Nothing wrong with biding time to a rebuild but what you're doing must be destructive.
 
Originally Posted By: B20z
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
I'm guessing the thick oil is adding enough drag to the system to slow the idle?


Nothing wrong with biding time to a rebuild but what you're doing must be destructive.


Why so? You think it'll coke up and suffer from oil starvation/stuck rings? Is this likely to cause damage that can't be fixed by a rebuild?

As presented this sounds like a "nothing to lose" platform.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Its knocking now, so I'm replacing the rod and mains per another thread.



Up to you of course, but that sounds like an appropriate point to stop the experiment for a full rebuild, assuming the car is worth it.
 
The only irreversible damage would be a broken rod trashing the block. In a rebuild I'll use a stroker kit so the only parts reused are the heads and block. And I have a spare date coded head. Crank, pistons and rods go in the trash anyway.

The block can be hot tanked to remove coolant stop leak particles.

Really no downside to continuing the bandaid approach until I'm ready for a rebuild.

MSD makes an HEI digital module with integral rev limiter which will help to prevent damage on missed shifts and such.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
This is my Trans Am Smokey & Bandit limited edition 1 of 213 made. An yes I got it for a steal. It's a miracle I even got the thing running.

A replacement engine will devalue the overall car. I checked and the engine vin matches.


Not if original engine has a cracked block or hole punched by a exiting rod... In the real world a reliable, mechanically sound engine trumps a original junker any day...
 
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