What benefits does 5w-20 have over 0w-20?

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Is it just slightly thicker? More shear stable?

Let's just say M1 EP 5w-20 vs M1 EP 0w-20

Why use the 5w-20 over 0w-20 in this case?
 
Is it because it's better in the cold?
I think that's why.
I have noticed that there are no 0w20 conventional oil types. Atleast not that I know of.
 
Likely the 5W-20 is a bit lighter on pour point depressants and VIIs. Also note it has marginally higher viscosity at operating temps and carries different OEM approvals.
 
Don't think there's any advantage, other than some 5W-20s are cheaper because they can make a 5W-20 from conventional/dino.

0W-20 is almost certainly a synthetic. Likely to be quite shear stable. Likely to flow better at low temperatures.

If I had a choice between 0W-20 and 5W-20 at the same price I'd pick the 0W-20 every time.
 
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In Texas 5W-20 should be fine unless 0W-20 is specified by the manufacturer.

There are no conventional 0W-20's I've seen at retail.

There are 0W-20's that are synthetic blends (the dexos1 listings for example), others are fully synthetic. There are some 0W-20 High Mileage variants (Valvoline Full Synthetic with MaxLife Technology for example) but not many.

5w-20's run the full spectrum of conventional, synthetic blend, synthetic, and high mileage across a lot of retail brands.
 
It may be cheaper than 0w20. Other than that I would pick 0w20 over 5w20 (in a quality name brand that you can trust) any day.
 
I think the OP's question was beyond conventional vs synthetic. You can take a look at the PDS and MSDS statements on Mobil's website to tease out the differences between Mobil1 EP 5w-20 vs 0w-20, but basically:

1) both are essentially the same at high temperatures
2) 0w-20 flows better in extreme cold
3) 0w-20 has substantially more PAO than 5w-20
4) theoretically, 0w-20 delivers better fuel economy, but in such small amounts it probably isn't noticeable outside the lab

So, 0w-20s are harder to make than 5w-20s and typically contain better base stocks than 5w-20s, even when comparing full synthetic versions of each. Whether these differences mean much, other than in extremely cold climates, is a matter of conjecture here.
 
Originally Posted By: Danh
I think the OP's question was beyond conventional vs synthetic.


Correct

Mainly asking because I see some people using 5w-20 in very new vehicles in their signature and often wonder why they aren't running the 0w-20 version of it instead, guess in some cases it can be as simple as the store they went to was all out of their favorite 0w-20 version of a certain oil.
 
I have had good luck with 0W20 in my 5w20 spec'ed Focus. I just got a 2012 F-150 with a 5.0 that specs 5w20. I am thinking of using the same M1 0W20 EP in it as well. Mobil says that it can be used wherever a 5W20 is spec'ed.
 
OP,

Some "very new" vehicles aren't spec'd for 0w-20 for one thing...and 0w-20 typically has a higher NOACK than a 5w-20 which is at least a consideration if your car has a direct injection engine. IMO, the 0w-20 may or may not be "better" depending on your vehicle, your location, and other factors.
 
Originally Posted By: jdavis
Mainly asking because I see some people using 5w-20 in very new vehicles in their signature and often wonder why they aren't running the 0w-20 version of it instead....

My 2007 Honda Accord V6 specifies 5W-20 motor oil. I use that because I can get a good quality oil (pretty much any brand name oil and API SN) cheaper than 0W-20. If I could get a 0w-20 for the same price I'd do it in a heartbeat. Either way I'd have perfectly good oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Vuflanovsky
OP,

Some "very new" vehicles aren't spec'd for 0w-20 for one thing...and 0w-20 typically has a higher NOACK than a 5w-20 which is at least a consideration if your car has a direct injection engine. IMO, the 0w-20 may or may not be "better" depending on your vehicle, your location, and other factors.


The Japanese OEMS in particular asked for 0W20 to be treated differently to the other grades for deposit and volatility. So 0W20s only need to achieve a lower standard in these tests than a 5w20.

If they didn't intend to use the range, then unsure why they would have chased it into the rules.
 
What's available in the market place and what the OEMs specify are two different things.
Firstly 5W-20 is basically a dino grade. Name a company that specifies a synthetic 5W-20 as I don't know of one.
When a OEM specifies a 0W-20 it's predominately synthetic and lighter on start-up at all temp's. So it's clearly advantageous to a dino 5W-20 in every category.

If a 5W-20 is specified and not a 0W-20, if you want to up-grade to a synthetic I would always choose a 0W-20. And there are API 0W-20s that claim that they can be used in 5W-20 applications. M1 0W-20(EP) is one and they state it won't void any manufacturers warranty.
 
My car specifies a 5w20. Over 150K miles I've used 5w20, 0w30, 5w30, 0w20, 0w40, 5w40. And some straight 30 weight from my lawn mower collection (half quart top off once to get rid of it). Most of the oils were M1, PP, or QSUD for brands and whatever had a great deal in sale or clearance. The 0w used mostly during the winter months. The others summer. 0w will flow better at startup and have slightly different characteristics at temp. But I'd use either in my car, based mostly on price if it's a known brand.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
What's available in the market place and what the OEMs specify are two different things.
Firstly 5W-20 is basically a dino grade. Name a company that specifies a synthetic 5W-20 as I don't know of one.
When a OEM specifies a 0W-20 it's predominately synthetic and lighter on start-up at all temp's. So it's clearly advantageous to a dino 5W-20 in every category.

If a 5W-20 is specified and not a 0W-20, if you want to up-grade to a synthetic I would always choose a 0W-20. And there are API 0W-20s that claim that they can be used in 5W-20 applications. M1 0W-20(EP) is one and they state it won't void any manufacturers warranty.


Very nice points, thank you
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
M1 0W-20(EP) is one and they state it won't void any manufacturers warranty.

Yes, and the same goes for their 0w-30 AFE in 5w-30 applications. Though, me going with 5w-40 is another issues altogether.
whistle.gif
 
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