2002 Honda accord slow 1-2 shift.
- Thread starter joegreen
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: Roob
Some great recommendations already. I would go with drain/fills with maxlife and then add a bottle of Lubegard Platinum or Lubegard HFMF (highly friction modified fluid). See how that goes as maxlife and Lubegard are very good at cleaning anything that may be sticking or gunked up.
Honestly, I thought that it was the auto transmissions with the 6cyl Honda engines that were a problem that year, not the 4cyl.
It's both that are effected, although V6s fail sooner.
Thanks.
Originally Posted By: Roob
Some great recommendations already. I would go with drain/fills with maxlife and then add a bottle of Lubegard Platinum or Lubegard HFMF (highly friction modified fluid). See how that goes as maxlife and Lubegard are very good at cleaning anything that may be sticking or gunked up.
Honestly, I thought that it was the auto transmissions with the 6cyl Honda engines that were a problem that year, not the 4cyl.
It's both that are effected, although V6s fail sooner.
Thanks.
Originally Posted By: Olas
With a manual, YOU decide when to shift and YOU decide exactly how long it takes. What were your reasons for buying an automatic, especially when you admit that they're known to be no good?
Certainly helpful, if a little blunt.
OP buys a car with known g/box issues and then complains about the g/box and seeks a solution.
Time and cost to have a shop pull, rebuild and refit is equal to, if not more than, sourcing and fitting a manual box which will eliminate the problem from ever recurring.
Then when It comes time to purchase a newer vehicle, remember how many complaints there are about bad shifting on here and how much more control over shift timing, speed, and characteristics you have with a proper box.
I doubt my mission will be successful, but I want to convert as many Muricans as possible to thinking more about their driving, and enjoying it more at the same time..
Swapping a Manual into a auto car is NOT easy & will cost way more than having the automatic rebuilt.
Used 5 speed gear box....Hopefully a good one??
Flywheel & bolts
Clutch & pressure plate
All new clutch hydraulics
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch switch & related wiring
Reverse light wiring
Shifter & related linkages & fabrication
A PCM out of a manual car
The Mounts & Drive axles may be different?
Most repair shop WILL NOT have anything to do with this crazy plan, The ones that will do it....Will charge you up!!!!!
Yell from the roof tops all you want about how superior Manual Transmissions are too Automatics & Americans are dumb....I find it amusing, This & the PCV thing.
On the original subject, Does a transmission of any make owe anybody anything at 150,000 miles? The OP needs the trans rebuilt, Solenoids & Fluid will not help.
With a manual, YOU decide when to shift and YOU decide exactly how long it takes. What were your reasons for buying an automatic, especially when you admit that they're known to be no good?
Certainly helpful, if a little blunt.
OP buys a car with known g/box issues and then complains about the g/box and seeks a solution.
Time and cost to have a shop pull, rebuild and refit is equal to, if not more than, sourcing and fitting a manual box which will eliminate the problem from ever recurring.
Then when It comes time to purchase a newer vehicle, remember how many complaints there are about bad shifting on here and how much more control over shift timing, speed, and characteristics you have with a proper box.
I doubt my mission will be successful, but I want to convert as many Muricans as possible to thinking more about their driving, and enjoying it more at the same time..
Swapping a Manual into a auto car is NOT easy & will cost way more than having the automatic rebuilt.
Used 5 speed gear box....Hopefully a good one??
Flywheel & bolts
Clutch & pressure plate
All new clutch hydraulics
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch switch & related wiring
Reverse light wiring
Shifter & related linkages & fabrication
A PCM out of a manual car
The Mounts & Drive axles may be different?
Most repair shop WILL NOT have anything to do with this crazy plan, The ones that will do it....Will charge you up!!!!!
Yell from the roof tops all you want about how superior Manual Transmissions are too Automatics & Americans are dumb....I find it amusing, This & the PCV thing.
On the original subject, Does a transmission of any make owe anybody anything at 150,000 miles? The OP needs the trans rebuilt, Solenoids & Fluid will not help.
Update: I have cleaned out all the mesh screens on the shift solenoids. They were all clean except for I think the torque converter solenoid. The screen had a decent amount of small particulate but nothing crazy. After cleaning them I took it for a drive and it felt the same. I recently replaced both pressure switches with Honda OEM ones. I did not feel any different between the new and old switches. I have not changed the fluid yet. I am going to go with amsoil atf. I am hoping that the fluid change makes a big difference. I have put maybe 400 miles on since the first post and it has not gotten any worse. I noticed that it I let it shift at 3000 RP its pretty smooth and quick but sometimes the shift lags. Also I can put it in 2nd when I take off and avoid the whole 1-2 shift. I am a little hesitant to try something other than dw-1 or amsoil because some people seems to have problems with other stuff.
Joe,
I had the same experience with the same drivetrain and the same car. At one point I tried mobil1 ATF with lubeguard ... I think it was lubeguard black. M1 is a grippier fluid than the oem stuff, and the LG black added friction modifier. One thing I discovered is it was very sensitive to how much LG was used. Too little and it was harsh. too much and it slipped. I was able to tune it a little more to the grippy side (slightly less LG) and it reduced the shift flare.
M1 was thicker than Z1. the trans was quieter, but I lost an mpg or so. The next time I did it, I used all honda ATF but left it a qt below full. Then I added just enough M1 ATF to stiffin the shift. Then left it alone and never messed with it again.
had it for another year or two then sold it. It was a reliable, comfortable vehicle.
I had the same experience with the same drivetrain and the same car. At one point I tried mobil1 ATF with lubeguard ... I think it was lubeguard black. M1 is a grippier fluid than the oem stuff, and the LG black added friction modifier. One thing I discovered is it was very sensitive to how much LG was used. Too little and it was harsh. too much and it slipped. I was able to tune it a little more to the grippy side (slightly less LG) and it reduced the shift flare.
M1 was thicker than Z1. the trans was quieter, but I lost an mpg or so. The next time I did it, I used all honda ATF but left it a qt below full. Then I added just enough M1 ATF to stiffin the shift. Then left it alone and never messed with it again.
had it for another year or two then sold it. It was a reliable, comfortable vehicle.
Update: I installed my trans cooler and spin on filter kit. I am using a fl-910s filter. I did one drain and refill with amsoil ATF. I immediately noticed better shifting after the small fluid replacement. I have 3.5 quarts of amsoil ATF left but am hesitant to put more in and here is why. Now I don't expect any fluid to magically fix a poor transmission. I am very happy at the large change the amsoil made. The trans still has a slow 1-2 shift an 2-3 flares when cold. The amsoil was expensive and I am not sure if another drain and refill will make any more of a difference then it already made. I might save the remaining amsoil for another vehicle and maybe try some mobil1 ATF with some lubegard hfm. Anyway the good news is the trans has not gotten any worse since I posted this. I am pretty surprised though at how much nicer the amsoil made the trans shift. It feels quicker and softer. Once the trans warms up besides the slow 1-2 you have no idea its even shifting the rest of the gears where before you could tell. Trans is definitely more refined now.
Last edited:
The reason the hondas (and other auto trans of this era) failed was due to poor fluids with Highly friction modified additives that made them constantly slip! People love that "Can't feel it shift" thing so manufacturers gave it to them! Put something like pure Maxlife ATF in there and let the clutches and bands grab and it'll last MUCH longer!
A smooth, barely noticeable shift is slipping! You do NOT want this if you want your trans to last.
Oh, and don't believe the hype about always using "honda only" fluids, thats total [censored] my friend. Honda fluid is just someone elses rebottled stuff.
A smooth, barely noticeable shift is slipping! You do NOT want this if you want your trans to last.
Oh, and don't believe the hype about always using "honda only" fluids, thats total [censored] my friend. Honda fluid is just someone elses rebottled stuff.
Originally Posted By: joegreen
Update: I installed my trans cooler and spin on filter kit. I am using a fl-910s filter. I did one drain and refill with amsoil ATF. I immediately noticed better shifting after the small fluid replacement. I have 3.5 quarts of amsoil ATF left but am hesitant to put more in and here is why. Now I don't expect any fluid to magically fix a poor transmission. I am very happy at the large change the amsoil made. The trans still has a slow 1-2 shift an 2-3 flares when cold. The amsoil was expensive and I am not sure if another drain and refill will make any more of a difference then it already made. I might save the remaining amsoil for another vehicle and maybe try some mobil1 ATF with some lubegard hfm. Anyway the good news is the trans has not gotten any worse since I posted this. I am pretty surprised though at how much nicer the amsoil made the trans shift. It feels quicker and softer. Once the trans warms up besides the slow 1-2 you have no idea its even shifting the rest of the gears where before you could tell. Trans is definitely more refined now.
Do not add lubeguard HFM to your Honda, that's a bad move. Doing another drain and fill with Amsoil would be much much smarter, I would wait about 1,000 miles in between each drain and fill until you've done a total of 3 Amsoil fills then resume normal intervals like 20-30k drain and fills or whatever your plan is.
Update: I installed my trans cooler and spin on filter kit. I am using a fl-910s filter. I did one drain and refill with amsoil ATF. I immediately noticed better shifting after the small fluid replacement. I have 3.5 quarts of amsoil ATF left but am hesitant to put more in and here is why. Now I don't expect any fluid to magically fix a poor transmission. I am very happy at the large change the amsoil made. The trans still has a slow 1-2 shift an 2-3 flares when cold. The amsoil was expensive and I am not sure if another drain and refill will make any more of a difference then it already made. I might save the remaining amsoil for another vehicle and maybe try some mobil1 ATF with some lubegard hfm. Anyway the good news is the trans has not gotten any worse since I posted this. I am pretty surprised though at how much nicer the amsoil made the trans shift. It feels quicker and softer. Once the trans warms up besides the slow 1-2 you have no idea its even shifting the rest of the gears where before you could tell. Trans is definitely more refined now.
Do not add lubeguard HFM to your Honda, that's a bad move. Doing another drain and fill with Amsoil would be much much smarter, I would wait about 1,000 miles in between each drain and fill until you've done a total of 3 Amsoil fills then resume normal intervals like 20-30k drain and fills or whatever your plan is.
Its really tough to say whats wrong with yours. Maxlife ATF is a great fluid, if the bottle says it works in your application. I had a sloooow 1-2 shift in a GM tranny and a bottle of sea foam trans tune fixed that issue up in a few thousand miles, drained and filled the tranny a few times with maxlife after that. It cleaned up whatever gunk built up on the solenoid. Id maybe check the solenoid first like others are saying, its a possibility, and change the fluid and filter if it has a serviceable one. If its truly clutch slippage, theres not much you can do besides rebuild, Maxlife wont fix a tranny with slipping clutches. Lucas stop slip could buy you some time before a rebuild if the clutches are slipping.
Smooth shifting transmissions dont wear out quicker. Transmissions that kind of "glide" into gear for smooth shifts definitely wear out quicker because its basically slipping into gear. Now, many smooth shifting transmissions shift instantly to the next gear and it is not felt at all. A quick, smooth shifting tranny is what manufacturers strive for. Todays better fluids allow for better transmission tuning.
- Status