Protecting Underhood Aluminum

[Garak]

I think it would be fine, but the only concern I'd have is how durable it would be in underhood heat. From a safety perspective for the surfaces, I'm sure it would be perfectly fine.

At least your picture doesn't show too many of those accelerator links.

When I had to do the valve cover gasket on the old Audi, I had to take a picture and carefully lay the stupid things out if I wanted any hope of ever getting it back together again.

 

[sleddriver]

Originally Posted By: Or
Based on many years of results and 3rd party tests, I'd use Boeshield T-9. http://boeshield.com/automotive-motorcycle/
+1

 

[buck91]

Originally Posted By: mikered30
I guess Fluid Film would work, but it really attracts dirt.


Actually if you rub it in then buff it off like you would a wax it really doesn't. Seems to be working well on my motorcycle stanchions that way, too!

Lots of good thoughts in this post and with a light and rather frequent application (and avoiding the salt belt) I would have confidence in fluid film, T9 and yes even pledge. We used it at the bike (bicycle) shop and it was a great product. Rode a Kona as a daily commuter bike one winter (probably 500-1000 miles total) and it saw almost daily wipe downs with pledge or bikelust (same thing), sold it in the spring for more than I paid and it looked brand new still.


Of you live in a cooler area, exspecially the salt belt I'd stick to heavier duty stuff like fluid film, T9, Maybe even Amsoil HDMP? CRC makes something similar, too.

 

[Robenstein]

Collinite Metal Wax or even Finish Kare Hi Temp Wax might work well also, especially in colder months. I was told by Collinite that their wax would hold up on most engine parts that get hot.

 

[BigD1]

I like CorrosionX products. Some products are mil spec.

http://www.corrosionx.com/

 

[punisher]

Originally Posted By: Or
Based on many years of results and 3rd party tests, I'd use Boeshield T-9.

http://boeshield.com/automotive-motorcycle/


Yup. Started using Boeshield on my tools, especially the cast iron top of my table saw. If it can keep that shiny in the South TX humidity, aluminum should be easy.

 

[mjoekingz28]

You could try regular car paint wax!

Research it first...if you like I can probably get you a paragraph on its use.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Pledge furniture polish.

On metal?!?

Ive heard to use that on batteries, maybe from you!

Yep. leaves no unsightly residue and makes future cleanup easier. Do the whole engine compartment. You don't end up with that "just detailed" look.

My 15 years old 170k miles E430 aluminum head is looking ugly too. I sprayed the engine with some cleaning chemical, rinse off with water from garden hose the blow dry with shop vac. Never applied anything after blow dry.

I may try Pledge furniture polish on my next engine cleaning, if it makes my engine aluminum looks good I will buy you a case of beer of your choice, if it makes my engine worse I will demand my money back !

 

[Unicorn01]

You'd think the manufacturer would have these parts anodized better. Maybe a type 3 HA.