588 Marine Big Block - oil advice..
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Whats it have for a cam and lifters? Flat or roller?
Regardless i think one of the high zddp/moly 20w50s would do good, and hold up to the abuse of a marine engines
Regardless i think one of the high zddp/moly 20w50s would do good, and hold up to the abuse of a marine engines
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I would run it in on a CI-4 15W40 for a few easy hours, then switch to 20W50 M-1 Motor Cycle.
Amsoil 20W-50 or M1 20W50. Fram Ultra oil filter.
A quality 40 weight.
50s tend to shear down to a 40 rather quickly.
Amsoil, Redline, Mobil, even Rotella make great 40 weights.
50s tend to shear down to a 40 rather quickly.
Amsoil, Redline, Mobil, even Rotella make great 40 weights.
Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Interestingly Ilmor recommends Mobil 1 0w40 for my 710.
I was a bit surprised by this.
Why surprised? It's a marinized Viper engine, after all.
With that said, don't draw any correlation between these two engines in regards to oil suitability.
Interestingly Ilmor recommends Mobil 1 0w40 for my 710.
I was a bit surprised by this.
Why surprised? It's a marinized Viper engine, after all.
With that said, don't draw any correlation between these two engines in regards to oil suitability.
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Mobil1 HM 10w40 or RoyalPurp HPS/HMX
Use oil temp and pressure gauges, with UOA data, to move up or down from that grade.
Use oil temp and pressure gauges, with UOA data, to move up or down from that grade.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 sounds good to me too... Stout and thick, extra ZDDP with Boron and moly.
I'll assume forged pistons with a bit of clearance in them, rods and mains in between 2.5-3.0 and some crank thrust.
Spray-bars for the springs, stud girdles and the bottom end splayed 4-bolt.
I would avoid engine oils with conventional VIIs in them.
A mono-grade like Mobil 1640 or Delo 400 SAE 40 is another option.
If your pump can keep up with the leakage, the above in an SAE 30 will work.
This doesn't mean use 10W30. Save that grade for the small blocks that turn more rpm.
Spray-bars for the springs, stud girdles and the bottom end splayed 4-bolt.
I would avoid engine oils with conventional VIIs in them.
A mono-grade like Mobil 1640 or Delo 400 SAE 40 is another option.
If your pump can keep up with the leakage, the above in an SAE 30 will work.
This doesn't mean use 10W30. Save that grade for the small blocks that turn more rpm.
Rotella T 15W40
Is it hull water cooled?
Does it have an oil cooler on it?
Judging from the size of the oil pump, it probably has a lot of flow capacity.
50-weight may be overkill. I'm thinking a 50-weight with a high volume oil pump may give 80+ psi all the time, and that's too much. 5800 rpm for WOT is not extreme, and that engine will not beat up the oil. It's got EFI, so you shouldn't have to protect against fuel dilution (if the calibration is good).
I think Redline 10w40 would be good.
Does it have an oil cooler on it?
Judging from the size of the oil pump, it probably has a lot of flow capacity.
50-weight may be overkill. I'm thinking a 50-weight with a high volume oil pump may give 80+ psi all the time, and that's too much. 5800 rpm for WOT is not extreme, and that engine will not beat up the oil. It's got EFI, so you shouldn't have to protect against fuel dilution (if the calibration is good).
I think Redline 10w40 would be good.
I have no intelligence to share, but a stab in the dark.
Btw, really nice looking safety wire on what I think is the oil pickup....
SAE40 up to 80F
SAE50 above that
Btw, really nice looking safety wire on what I think is the oil pickup....
SAE40 up to 80F
SAE50 above that
What are the clearances? that would dictate the oil choice. Probably a 15w-40 or 20w-50. there will be a whole lot of high rpm pounding going on. When I had my flatbottom over the years the big Block Chevy in different set ups and sizes over the years I would run factory clearances for the rods and cranks and the recommended piston mfgs clearances and fresh water cooling and 12 qt oil pans 15w-40 would work as well as 20w-50, 30 wts give a low oil pressure after some running.
Builder is a Lucas dealer, so its going to get Lucas high zinc break in oil to start.
I've never really been a fan of Lucas products, but maybe Im not giving them a fair shake?
Uncertain of clearances, but Ill get that on the final build sheet.
The builder actually teaches his own EFI classes, so It will be setup correctly.
Its pretty mild compared to an automotive setup where one doest have idle, or reversion constraints like in an outdrive boat.
I've never really been a fan of Lucas products, but maybe Im not giving them a fair shake?
Uncertain of clearances, but Ill get that on the final build sheet.
The builder actually teaches his own EFI classes, so It will be setup correctly.
Its pretty mild compared to an automotive setup where one doest have idle, or reversion constraints like in an outdrive boat.
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