Cooling system sealants

[TallPaul]

I added some Bars Leaks sealant, the glittery aluminum stuff to my radiator because of a heater core leak. Not wanting to talk about the merits of adding this stuff, but they say to run the vehicle with the controls on heat. Well it is in the 80s here and I don't like roasting and sweating.

On my 2001 Ranger 2.3L DOHC is there any reason the coolant is not coursing through the heater core even with the system on AC?

I don't believe there is a valve that shuts out the heater when not in use. Seems to me that the coolant circulates through the heater core all the time, no matter what setting the HVAC is on.

Besides, I already ran 150 miles with the HVAC set to heat/defrost and the window open. So it probably has had plenty of time to fill the pinhole leak. Background is that I started smelling antifreeze but there was no wetting of the floorboards/carpet, so the leak must be minuscule.

The smell of antifreeze has weakened considerably since adding the Bars Leaks, so I think I am good for now. Of course it may come back next year or so. The vehicle is a beater though so I am mainly trying to buy time not make a permanent fix.

 

[turtlevette]

If there is no valve on the hose between the engine and heater core, there is no reason to run the heat.

150 miles is way more than you need. The leak should have sealed up within 15 minutes.

 

[Olas]

If it stays hot and you can't smell coolant then it's most likely sealed. Possible slight clogging of the radiator?
Pretty sure there's a valve that controls flow through the heater core, there is one on my car. I'd be interested to see how it goes over the longer term - I always believe in fixes rather than bandages but most people on here try and swerve repairs with additives and I'm wondering if a whole nation is wrong, if product availability is really that different or if there's some other variable I haven't considered?

 

[simple_gifts]

Quote:

Possible slight clogging of the radiator?


My understanding is the solidification is air activated. That is why it is magic to only solidify where there is a leak.

 

[bdcardinal]

Your Ranger should have a heater control valve. They are a very common failure item. There is either a 2 or 4 port valve.

 

[Leo99]

Originally Posted By: Olas
If it stays hot and you can't smell coolant then it's most likely sealed. Possible slight clogging of the radiator?
Pretty sure there's a valve that controls flow through the heater core, there is one on my car. I'd be interested to see how it goes over the longer term - I always believe in fixes rather than bandages but most people on here try and swerve repairs with additives and I'm wondering if a whole nation is wrong, if product availability is really that different or if there's some other variable I haven't considered?


The variable you're discounting is cost. I don't know about the Jeep, but on my old Sable the cost to replace a heater core about $700 - $1000. It was a lot of work. The dash had to come out, the A/C lines had to be evacuated and removed. The mechanics I talked to about it said the heater is installed first and rest of the car is build around it.

If a $10 miracle in a bottle can keep the problem at bay for a year to two, it's worth trying.

 

[TallPaul]

Well the heater core leak began 20 months ago and a tube of Alumiseal did a find job of fixing it. Then it started smelling of antifreeze again. I hope it is not a poor ground causing conductivity though the cooling system and electrolysis that causes holes. Anyway, I'll have to see if there is a valve, but as someone said, 150 miles is more than enough.

Thanks. I'll try to post the next time it leaks, which hopefully is a long time off.

 

[Kruse]

Your 2001 should take the same heater valve as my '98 Ranger, although it may be the two or four port. It's located right in front of the firewall. I believe the coolant does not flow when the selector is on "off", but it does flow when it's at every other position.
It's something you don't want to hear, but it's time to replace the heater core.

 

[Olas]

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:

Possible slight clogging of the radiator?


My understanding is the solidification is air activated. That is why it is magic to only solidify where there is a leak.


Touché

 

[Olas]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: Olas
If it stays hot and you can't smell coolant then it's most likely sealed. Possible slight clogging of the radiator?
Pretty sure there's a valve that controls flow through the heater core, there is one on my car. I'd be interested to see how it goes over the longer term - I always believe in fixes rather than bandages but most people on here try and swerve repairs with additives and I'm wondering if a whole nation is wrong, if product availability is really that different or if there's some other variable I haven't considered?


The variable you're discounting is cost. I don't know about the Jeep, but on my old Sable the cost to replace a heater core about $700 - $1000. It was a lot of work. The dash had to come out, the A/C lines had to be evacuated and removed. The mechanics I talked to about it said the heater is installed first and rest of the car is build around it.

If a $10 miracle in a bottle can keep the problem at bay for a year to two, it's worth trying.



On one hand I can kind of see what you're saying, but most of that cost on your sable was labour - I do stuff myself so the cost argument doesn't affect me.
On the other hand, I kind of see it as parallel to to having a bad tooth but not going to the dentist if a painkiller will make it ok for now - burying your head in the sand doesn't fix the problem..

Agree to disagree?

 

[TallPaul]

Originally Posted By: Olas
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:

Possible slight clogging of the radiator?


My understanding is the solidification is air activated. That is why it is magic to only solidify where there is a leak.


Touché

As I recall it takes air and pressure, otherwise it would solidify in the top of the radiator tank or where ever else air may be entrapped.

The smell seems to be gone, so maybe I get through another winter. Cheap way to put off the major repair (heater core requires removal of much of the dash). Maybe get rid of the truck before then, or else keep pouring the stuff in until it plugs up and then junk it. The truck is a beater of sorts, but the engine does run great so I keep driving it.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: Olas
If it stays hot and you can't smell coolant then it's most likely sealed. Possible slight clogging of the radiator?
Pretty sure there's a valve that controls flow through the heater core, there is one on my car. I'd be interested to see how it goes over the longer term - I always believe in fixes rather than bandages but most people on here try and swerve repairs with additives and I'm wondering if a whole nation is wrong, if product availability is really that different or if there's some other variable I haven't considered?


The variable you're discounting is cost. I don't know about the Jeep, but on my old Sable the cost to replace a heater core about $700 - $1000. It was a lot of work. The dash had to come out, the A/C lines had to be evacuated and removed. The mechanics I talked to about it said the heater is installed first and rest of the car is build around it.

If a $10 miracle in a bottle can keep the problem at bay for a year to two, it's worth trying.



That's what I say. My brother in law and I had this discussion over the weekend when his Town and Country started leaking from the heater core. He's planning on getting rid of it in November and doesn't want to pay to fix it. He has a few choices I told him. Bi-pass the heater core, use stop leak, or let it leak and keep topping it up while dealing with the smell. Stop leak it was. Sometimes these products work.

 

[ryanschillinger]

I was going to suggest bypassing the heater core if that doesn't work and you don't want to spend the time and money to replace it.

 

[TallPaul]

Originally Posted By: ryanschillinger
I was going to suggest bypassing the heater core if that doesn't work and you don't want to spend the time and money to replace it.


That works until about December, then I would have to fix it or sell it to someone way down south.