Switching oil. Have a question or two on weights.

[2civics]

I've decided to switch from my beloved M1 Ep to M1 AFE. (Big jump I know.

I'm confused as to what weight to choose. I want the oil to flow best at startup and especially during the winter. Therefore I want 0w-20, correct? My cars (8th gen Honda Civics) are spec'd for both 0w-20 and 5w-20, with 5w-20 being seemingly being the preferred weight listed.

Or is it better to run a 5w during the summer and a 0w during the winter? Is there a downside to running either? Should I stick with the 5w-20 that is listed in the owners' manual? (I've seen in other materials that 0w-20 is also acceptable.)

Thanks

 

[Branson304]

You can use 0W-20 with no harm done. At operating temperature, 0W-20 will be the same as 5W-20. At start up, 0W-20 will be a little thinner & flow a little better to the rest of your engine than 5W-20 so 0W-20 will provide a little better protection upon start-up.

 

[2civics]

Here is the application guide. Without it, the manual does not state that I can use 0w-20 at all. I wonder why that is?

Honda Oil Application Guide

 

[Eosyn]

Since you're in a state where it can get quite cold during the winter, I'd go with 0w20 without hesitation.

 

[donnyj08]

Originally Posted By: Eosyn
Since you're in a state where it can get quite cold during the winter, I'd go with 0w20 without hesitation.


+1 0w20EP year round!

 

[deven]

Eh, you're over thinking this. You can use either viscosity year around and your Civic won't know the difference and your engine will out live the rest of the car.

 

[Clevy]

0w or 5w doesn't make a lick of real world difference in pumpability until you get into the extreme winter temps around -25c and colder,so buy whichever's cheaper.
I live in Saskatchewan and use a 5wxx in my vehicles in the winter. Whether hot or cold the oil pump moves the same volume of oil per rotation. The only change is pressure,volume is unaffected whether using a 0w-40 or a 20w-50.
So think about it. If your switching to afe the only choices are 0w-20 or 0w-30. That's it.
So your question is moot.
What intervals are you running. With ep you should be extending the interval to 15000 miles. Afe and vanilla m1 are 10000 mile oils.
If you run a shorter interval use a conventional. No point in buying a sun and paying extra for it when you aren't taking advantage of the synthetics oils most important characteristic;longer drains.
We've seen time and time again that a the used oil analysis from an engine that has both the synthetic sump fill was indistinguishable from the conventional sump fill in regards to wear,the only difference was tbn,the synthetic had more,when both oils are run for shorter intervals(under 10000 miles).
So I suggest you consider all the variables and make a choice from there.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

My cars liked the Valvoline synpower 0w20 for VVT and headcleanliness, but that isn't a Honda Civic problem per se; I would just run QSGB 5w20 and forget it.
Just stick with same oil.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: 2civics
Here is the application guide. Without it, the manual does not state that I can use 0w-20 at all. I wonder why that is?

Honda Oil Application Guide


Back spec'ed 0w20 oil wasnt available in 2005

 

[2civics]

Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: 2civics
Here is the application guide. Without it, the manual does not state that I can use 0w-20 at all. I wonder why that is?

Honda Oil Application Guide


Back spec'ed 0w20 oil wasnt available in 2005


My cars are a 2009 and a 2011 though?

 

[2civics]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
0w or 5w doesn't make a lick of real world difference in pumpability until you get into the extreme winter temps around -25c and colder,so buy whichever's cheaper.
I live in Saskatchewan and use a 5wxx in my vehicles in the winter. Whether hot or cold the oil pump moves the same volume of oil per rotation. The only change is pressure,volume is unaffected whether using a 0w-40 or a 20w-50.
So think about it. If your switching to afe the only choices are 0w-20 or 0w-30. That's it.
So your question is moot.
What intervals are you running. With ep you should be extending the interval to 15000 miles. Afe and vanilla m1 are 10000 mile oils.
If you run a shorter interval use a conventional. No point in buying a sun and paying extra for it when you aren't taking advantage of the synthetics oils most important characteristic;longer drains.
We've seen time and time again that a the used oil analysis from an engine that has both the synthetic sump fill was indistinguishable from the conventional sump fill in regards to wear,the only difference was tbn,the synthetic had more,when both oils are run for shorter intervals(under 10000 miles).
So I suggest you consider all the variables and make a choice from there.


Not positive on intervals yet. My wife's car is somewhat of a short tripper, especially in winter. 6.5 miles one way.... So I'm not sure where we land on drain intervals right now. I understand synthetics much better when the short tripping isn't thrown in to the mix.

 

[stchman]

I live in Missouri and run 5W-30 all year around. Unless the temperature drops to REALLY cold temps of -20F, using a 0W or 5W will not make a difference.

You can run a 0W-20 all year round since both 0W-20 and 5W-20 are 20 weight at operating temperature.

 

[2civics]

So how does short tripping affect OCI's for synthetics? Is it the same as dyno? Change out at 3k?

 

[Dallas69]

Maybe cause they don't want you to.
Just go by the manual.
This is not a tough decision my friend.

 

[2civics]

Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Maybe cause they don't want you to.
Just go by the manual.
This is not a tough decision my friend.


Ya'll Reckon?

 

[2civics]

Originally Posted By: stchman
I live in Missouri and run 5W-30 all year around. Unless the temperature drops to REALLY cold temps of -20F, using a 0W or 5W will not make a difference.

You can run a 0W-20 all year round since both 0W-20 and 5W-20 are 20 weight at operating temperature.


Okay. Thanks

 

[tig1]

Both of my engines spec 5-20. I have for at least the last 100K used M1 0-20AFE at 10K OCI with great results. Also, there is no need to use 5-20 in the summer. 0-20 holds up very well in 100 F + temps.

 

[2civics]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Both of my engines spec 5-20. I have for at least the last 100K used M1 0-20AFE at 10K OCI with great results.


Wow. Now that is what I am looking for.

Did you do a uoa to get to 10k or did you reach that increment on your own? Do either of your vehicles experience "short tripping" on any sort of regular basis?
Thanks for the response.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: 2civics
Originally Posted By: tig1
Both of my engines spec 5-20. I have for at least the last 100K used M1 0-20AFE at 10K OCI with great results.


Wow. Now that is what I am looking for.

Did you do a uoa to get to 10k or did you reach that increment on your own? Do either of your vehicles experience "short tripping" on any sort of regular basis?
Thanks for the response.


I don't do UOAs as they are a waste of money(IMO) except for a check for the oils condition, like fuel, dirt, or coolant in the oil if you suspect a mechanical problem, or on a rare occasion checking the TBN which is almost never a problem anyway at 10K. I also have been doing 10K OCIs since 1978 with M1 oils, so 10K is my normal. My Focus does about 70% local trips, but frankly I have never worried over how the miles were added, as I just change at 10K regardless of time or conditions. Never had an engine problem with some over 350K. All engines remained very clean and none have never shown any sign of wear.

 

[expat]

Originally Posted By: 2civics
Here is the application guide. Without it, the manual does not state that I can use 0w-20 at all. I wonder why that is?

Honda Oil Application Guide


So as you said Honda seems to prefer that you use 5w-20.

They acknowledge that there is 0w-20 but refer to it as only 'acceptable'

But YOU (and others here) think that 0w-20 would be better because:

1) Thin is good, so thinner must be better?

2) Indiana is the coldest place in North America, so an exception should me made ?

3) Honda wanted to save money on testing this engine, so they just spec what Toyota did?

4) 0w-20 costs a bit more, Honda wants to save me some money?

There have been some good threads here recently on Thin v Thick'er' Oil
there ARE pros and cons. You decide.

But for you, where you live in reality, Rust is going to have a much greater effect on the life of your car than any oil ever will.