I'm new to UOA and learning everything I can about it. I'm assuming everyone doesn't use Blackstone, correct? Blackstone charges $25 - are there other choices out there as good and possibly more economical?
Thanks! John
Thanks! John
Where do you get your UOA and how much do you Pay?
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Keep in mind, the $25 does not get you TBN at blackstone.
I used to use Wearcheck in the past. Here is an earlier thread on this subject...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3158091/The_Price_of_UOA's#Post3158091
I used to use Wearcheck in the past. Here is an earlier thread on this subject...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3158091/The_Price_of_UOA's#Post3158091
Polaris (same as OAI). The only sane method is to get a 10 pack. They are then about $19.
Polaris/OAI provide TBN (or TAN) along with oxidation/nitration. Oxidation is important but overlooked by people.
Blackstone charges extra for TBN and does not give you oxidation.
NAPA sells a kit for about $16.
I have on occasion split a 10 pack with another BITOG member.
And with Polaris you don't get the Blackstone non-helpful comments (thankfully)!
Polaris/OAI provide TBN (or TAN) along with oxidation/nitration. Oxidation is important but overlooked by people.
Blackstone charges extra for TBN and does not give you oxidation.
NAPA sells a kit for about $16.
I have on occasion split a 10 pack with another BITOG member.
And with Polaris you don't get the Blackstone non-helpful comments (thankfully)!
Mine cost nothing. When I first joined BITOG I spent some time in the UOA section, and came to two conclusions.
1. The vast majority of the UOAs were just fine, and most could go much further than the 3,000 to 5,000 miles they were running. Getting concerned over 2-3 PPM of anything is just silly, and something that I don't have time for.
2. I realized that the majority of engines are not hard on oil, and the type of driving that I do is even easier on oil. I could save my money and be comfortable with my "twice a year regardless of mileage" oil change interval. I'll let others shell out the money for a UOA; unless I suspect an issue with one of my engines, I'll let others pay for UOAs.
1. The vast majority of the UOAs were just fine, and most could go much further than the 3,000 to 5,000 miles they were running. Getting concerned over 2-3 PPM of anything is just silly, and something that I don't have time for.
2. I realized that the majority of engines are not hard on oil, and the type of driving that I do is even easier on oil. I could save my money and be comfortable with my "twice a year regardless of mileage" oil change interval. I'll let others shell out the money for a UOA; unless I suspect an issue with one of my engines, I'll let others pay for UOAs.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Mine cost nothing. When I first joined BITOG I spent some time in the UOA section, and came to two conclusions.
1. The vast majority of the UOAs were just fine, and most could go much further than the 3,000 to 5,000 miles they were running. Getting concerned over 2-3 PPM of anything is just silly, and something that I don't have time for.
2. I realized that the majority of engines are not hard on oil, and the type of driving that I do is even easier on oil. I could save my money and be comfortable with my "twice a year regardless of mileage" oil change interval. I'll let others shell out the money for a UOA; unless I suspect an issue with one of my engines, I'll let others pay for UOAs.
If you go up to once a year up to 20-25k miles oil change interval with quality synthetic oil will you do UOA ?
I did that long OCI in my LS400 with various synthetic oil brands and I didn't do any UOA either. The engine is running well, not as quiet as brand new 22 years ago but as good as 370+k miles can be.
Mine cost nothing. When I first joined BITOG I spent some time in the UOA section, and came to two conclusions.
1. The vast majority of the UOAs were just fine, and most could go much further than the 3,000 to 5,000 miles they were running. Getting concerned over 2-3 PPM of anything is just silly, and something that I don't have time for.
2. I realized that the majority of engines are not hard on oil, and the type of driving that I do is even easier on oil. I could save my money and be comfortable with my "twice a year regardless of mileage" oil change interval. I'll let others shell out the money for a UOA; unless I suspect an issue with one of my engines, I'll let others pay for UOAs.
If you go up to once a year up to 20-25k miles oil change interval with quality synthetic oil will you do UOA ?
I did that long OCI in my LS400 with various synthetic oil brands and I didn't do any UOA either. The engine is running well, not as quiet as brand new 22 years ago but as good as 370+k miles can be.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Mine cost nothing. When I first joined BITOG I spent some time in the UOA section, and came to two conclusions.
1. The vast majority of the UOAs were just fine, and most could go much further than the 3,000 to 5,000 miles they were running. Getting concerned over 2-3 PPM of anything is just silly, and something that I don't have time for.
2. I realized that the majority of engines are not hard on oil, and the type of driving that I do is even easier on oil. I could save my money and be comfortable with my "twice a year regardless of mileage" oil change interval. I'll let others shell out the money for a UOA; unless I suspect an issue with one of my engines, I'll let others pay for UOAs.
I don't bother. The car will be long gone before it would matter anyway.
Mine cost nothing. When I first joined BITOG I spent some time in the UOA section, and came to two conclusions.
1. The vast majority of the UOAs were just fine, and most could go much further than the 3,000 to 5,000 miles they were running. Getting concerned over 2-3 PPM of anything is just silly, and something that I don't have time for.
2. I realized that the majority of engines are not hard on oil, and the type of driving that I do is even easier on oil. I could save my money and be comfortable with my "twice a year regardless of mileage" oil change interval. I'll let others shell out the money for a UOA; unless I suspect an issue with one of my engines, I'll let others pay for UOAs.
I don't bother. The car will be long gone before it would matter anyway.
I actually have to agree with Pop - imagine that! I extended my OCI's to 10K or one year back in the early 90's on my 89 Accord. At one point I was in a carpool and racked up less than 10K per year.
The ONLY reason I am going to do ONE now is that I am trying out the microGreen filter routine - three filters, 30K on the oil, 0.5 quart makeup at each filter change. This is not about saving money. This is about minimizing waste and maximizing convenience.
I have a couple of "followers" who have asked about where I am in the process. I have about 5,000 more miles on the third filter to go before dumping the oil and sending the UOA sample. I know this means very little, but the oil has not darkened noticeably since about 6K miles. It is M1 0W-20 AFE with the make up oil being Mazda 0W-20 w/moly. I had a few odd quarts left from the case I bought at the Mazda dealer (for $6.56/quart). If the results are acceptable the oil of choice will be M1 0W-20 EP. EP was not available in the local Wal Marts when I started this on 10/25/13.
The ONLY reason I am going to do ONE now is that I am trying out the microGreen filter routine - three filters, 30K on the oil, 0.5 quart makeup at each filter change. This is not about saving money. This is about minimizing waste and maximizing convenience.
I have a couple of "followers" who have asked about where I am in the process. I have about 5,000 more miles on the third filter to go before dumping the oil and sending the UOA sample. I know this means very little, but the oil has not darkened noticeably since about 6K miles. It is M1 0W-20 AFE with the make up oil being Mazda 0W-20 w/moly. I had a few odd quarts left from the case I bought at the Mazda dealer (for $6.56/quart). If the results are acceptable the oil of choice will be M1 0W-20 EP. EP was not available in the local Wal Marts when I started this on 10/25/13.
I agree with others who have suggested that UOA do not make financial sense for most car/light truck oil changes.
If you are going to extend the OCI out, like I have in my diesel, then it was a necessity.
In my Jeep I have an issue with higher than normal copper & lead from the engine. So the UOAs allow me to keep tabs on it.
If you are going to extend the OCI out, like I have in my diesel, then it was a necessity.
In my Jeep I have an issue with higher than normal copper & lead from the engine. So the UOAs allow me to keep tabs on it.
Let's face it. Many of us here perform or have performed UOAs primarily for kicks as we are oil nuts after all. And if it just so happens that it uncovers some random problem with the engine, that's just a side benefit.
Not everyone is trying to test 4 qts of oil in their car. Some are in search of testing other fluids that cost $1000 plus to change. test can be a valuable form of preventative maintenance on expensive equipment, possibly saving thousands lost in downtime! So its worth finding a good lab that give you the info you need & can track data from past years etc...
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