I picked up a '15 Yamaha FZ-07 and in the process of breaking it in… I've gone thru a few oil filters already. I've been using Shell Rotella 15W-40 since the first oil change and use it in my other bikes as well.
First up is the factory Yamaha filter, P/N: 5GH-13440-50-00 (Denso is printed on the side). This was the 1st filter with ~120 miles on it. There wasn't much debris to speak of:
Seems well constructed and has approx. 79 in^2 of filter media. The filter media doesn't have end caps, instead it has glue/plastic coating holding it together. The bypass features a plastic plunger preloaded with a coil spring. It also has an anti-drain back valve, not sure if its nitrile or silicone… but it was still pliable (granted only has 120 miles on it).
Made the switch to a Fram Tough Guard TG7317 filter at 120 miles, this is my 2nd filter with ~230 miles on it:
The Fram TG7317 is decently constructed as well… its a "car" filter at 3.25" long vs. 2.5" for the factory filter, IIRC. It has approx. 127in^2 of filter media. The end caps on the filter media are "cardboard", but they still proved difficult to separate. The bypass features a plastic plunger with a coil spring that takes about the same force to open as the factory filter. However it appears to be made of cheap stamped metal and the plunger was a little "sticky". It also has a silicone ADBV and textured end (easier to spin by hand).
Used the same Fram for my next oil change. Then made the switch to a Bosch 3300 filter at 740 miles, this is 4th filter with ~570 miles on it:
The Bosch 3300 is well constructed… and has approx. 85 in^2 of filter media. The end caps on the filter media are metal and glued in placed. The bypass is built into the end cap and features a metal plunger with a very strong spiral "leaf" spring. The plunger takes a lot more force to open and doesn't open nearly as much as compared to the factory filter. However its worth noting the plunger is much larger and thus would require higher force to open for the same pressure-differential. It also has a silicone ADBV and smooth can, like the factory filter.
At the moment I have a Purolator PureOne PL14612 installed… supposedly its very similar to the Bosch. I can get the Bosch for $4 vs. Purolator for $7 and I could do without the mustard-yellow color of the Purolator as well
So I might be a Bosch-user from now on.
First up is the factory Yamaha filter, P/N: 5GH-13440-50-00 (Denso is printed on the side). This was the 1st filter with ~120 miles on it. There wasn't much debris to speak of:
Seems well constructed and has approx. 79 in^2 of filter media. The filter media doesn't have end caps, instead it has glue/plastic coating holding it together. The bypass features a plastic plunger preloaded with a coil spring. It also has an anti-drain back valve, not sure if its nitrile or silicone… but it was still pliable (granted only has 120 miles on it).
Made the switch to a Fram Tough Guard TG7317 filter at 120 miles, this is my 2nd filter with ~230 miles on it:
The Fram TG7317 is decently constructed as well… its a "car" filter at 3.25" long vs. 2.5" for the factory filter, IIRC. It has approx. 127in^2 of filter media. The end caps on the filter media are "cardboard", but they still proved difficult to separate. The bypass features a plastic plunger with a coil spring that takes about the same force to open as the factory filter. However it appears to be made of cheap stamped metal and the plunger was a little "sticky". It also has a silicone ADBV and textured end (easier to spin by hand).
Used the same Fram for my next oil change. Then made the switch to a Bosch 3300 filter at 740 miles, this is 4th filter with ~570 miles on it:
The Bosch 3300 is well constructed… and has approx. 85 in^2 of filter media. The end caps on the filter media are metal and glued in placed. The bypass is built into the end cap and features a metal plunger with a very strong spiral "leaf" spring. The plunger takes a lot more force to open and doesn't open nearly as much as compared to the factory filter. However its worth noting the plunger is much larger and thus would require higher force to open for the same pressure-differential. It also has a silicone ADBV and smooth can, like the factory filter.
At the moment I have a Purolator PureOne PL14612 installed… supposedly its very similar to the Bosch. I can get the Bosch for $4 vs. Purolator for $7 and I could do without the mustard-yellow color of the Purolator as well
So I might be a Bosch-user from now on.
