Anyone w/experience refinishing AT steel plates?

[Oro_O]

Rebuilding one of GM's less than stellar transmissions. But details of that aren't important.

I need to refinish some steel plates. I have read various methods but have never done it myself. Most revolve around A) blast to clean, then de-grease and use as is, or B) blast, then lightly sand to #240/#200 and de-grease.

I am very experienced at blasting/refinishing many materials, so technique is not the question really, but what is good for AT steel plates.

Here's a pic of the steels in question. These burned with the friction discs when the fluid got low, some are polished and some have heat-transfered friction material on them.

 

[901Memphis]

I don't have experience with that but what is the transmission model. You can get some pretty nice 4T65e stuff here.

http://tripleedgeperformance.com/Frictions_and_Steels.html?no_redirect=true

 

[Oro_O]

It's a 4L30E, so not as easy to go grab a specific steel pack.

I appreciate the idea. I have (effectively) a machine shop at my disposal so refurbing is faster and cheaper than replacing.

PS, though far away now, I'm from northern Kentucky. I grew up around Lousiville and that is still really "home."

 

[Merkava_4]

Scotch-Brite Roloc discs is probably what I'd try first. If there's anything sticky on there, spray the Roloc discs down with WD-40 or an equivalent solvent. You're gonna need a metal backing like a steel workbench or something.

 

[ragtoplvr]

The disks were overheated, and the heat treat changed. They are junk. yes, most disk are treated. Often they are stamped from treated materials not post heat treated

You can clean them, when you consider the effort to rebuild again, it is NOT worth it to me.

Rod

 

[Quest]

Hey bud,

If you seriously want the rebuilt trannie to perform as it should, consider buying fresh new plates.

Per ragtoplvr's remarks: there seems to be a bit of overheating (burning/bluing) of the plate surface, which, unless you are able to mic all of them one-by-one and compare against the spec of fresh new ones, and then "true" them on a plane or similar, otherwise: uneven contact surface from these A T clutch plates will lead to elevated localised temperature and also poor friction distribution (chattering may result).

Bottomline: it's no use recycling them plates unless you have the means to verify their condition are within spec.

Q.

 

[ironman_gq]

clutch kits are cheap, I'd spend the money and get new parts.

 

[Trav]

There is no real way of refinishing the plates, some places tumble them in ceramic beads once they have been checked for flatness, just replace them, messing with the old ones is more trouble than its worth IMO.

 

[clinebarger]

Once the Steels get hot spots in them.....They are DONE.

Here is a pic of a 4L80E Intermediate Steel, This one hot spot was enough to cull it, The Intermediate clutches themselves were fine. It your clutch pack is burnt...The Steels likely "Coned" a little anyway.



You can buy individual steels for a 4L30E, But sometimes cheaper to buy a whole set.
In fact if the O/D Steels are OK....3L30/TH180 Steels will fit the back half of the unit, but only around $10 cheaper!

Here are some on Ebay for $50 free shipping & on the west coast.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4L30E-New-Steel-...54f&vxp=mtr