Waterless coolant

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We have been through this before several years ago. There are a few issues. The most serious issue is that ethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol make a corrosive acid when mixed. You have to get all of the regular coolant out. I used to do this by attaching a hose to the radiator and running the car for several minutes with the drain open. Next you have to get all the water out. On some modern cars this is impossible. You will never get the heater core dry. After that, the Evans coolant is not as efficient as the normal mix, so you need a larger radiator unless your car has plenty of extra capacity (Hondas have no extra margin and Toyotas have plenty). However, if you solve all the installation problems you get a corrosion free cooling system for life. Roadside repairs will be problematic if you ever spring a leak and don't have Evans coolant handy.
 
I agree with all of the above comments. I looked at the price of this stuff and I think it's nuts the kind of money they charge. They're very proud of their product.

I watched the video with Jay Leno where they said how much coolant your system can have and still be compatible with their product and it's just stupid - I think they said your existing system can only have something like 3% remaining coolant when "converting" to Evans!

I'll pass on this product.

Ed
 
I have a friend who tried it- flushed with tons of water, drained as much as possible, and then the rest of the leftover water boils away because you run the Evans at much lower pressure than regular coolant. Which is nice in that it can still function with zero pressure, so if you get a small leak you can remove the radiator cap and go a loooong way without forcing all your remaining coolant out the way 50/50 systems pressurized to 15 psi do.

It worked, without issue, for several years. But its not really enough benefit to be practical. He converted back when he had to do some un-related work on the vehicle that required draining the coolant and he lost the inevitable splash here and there as parts and hoses were moved around. It wasn't worth the cost to buy another gallon of Evans to re-fill it.
 
I think it is useful for some collector cars that have plenty of radiator in front of them. You get a rust free system for life. It doesn't work for cars that are "radiator challenged" like a Lotus Europa or Jaguar XKE or Honda Civic.
 
Originally Posted By: carock
I think it is useful for some collector cars that have plenty of radiator in front of them. You get a rust free system for life. It doesn't work for cars that are "radiator challenged" like a Lotus Europa or Jaguar XKE or Honda Civic.


Exactly
 
I use waterless coolant in my Harley
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I've used it and found that my engine ran hotter under all conditions.

There are some Subaru engine'd experimental aircraft using Evans coolant with good results. But, the operating conditions are quite different than a car, truck or motorcycle.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I've used it and found that my engine ran hotter under all conditions.

There are some Subaru engine'd experimental aircraft using Evans coolant with good results. But, the operating conditions are quite different than a car, truck or motorcycle.
Someday they'll give up on that type of conversion. The Mooney Porsche didn't work out nor the attempt to make a Lexus V8 into an aircraft motor. On the other hand, all the specials in the movie "The .......... in their Flying Machines used bug motors.
 
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Originally Posted By: toyota62
Originally Posted By: carock
I think it is useful for some collector cars that have plenty of radiator in front of them. You get a rust free system for life. It doesn't work for cars that are "radiator challenged" like a Lotus Europa or Jaguar XKE or Honda Civic.


Exactly


Could you please explain this?
 
Originally Posted By: mesastoura
Could you please explain this?


At one end of the cooling system you have a piece of metal at a high temperature (the head)...at the other end you have the atmosphere, which is where your waste heat ends up...same for all heat engines, including power stations etc.

From air to cylinder head, you have the following as a minimumum.

Air/Aluminium passage through the aluminium aluminium/coolant coolant/cylinder head.

Every one of those interfaces takes requires a temperature difference to drive the waste heat through them, and all of the temperature differences add up.

If the coolant needs more temperature to shift the waste heat, then everything upstream of the air (heat sink) has to run hotter to push the heat along.

If the coolant has a lower specific heat (the number of degrees a liquid rises for a BTU input is the specific heat), the coolant itself has to run hotter to carry the heat out.

Best "coolant" is water in a fresh system (corrosion soon fixes that), 50:50 antifreeze is a fairly distant second, but a necessary evil.

Waterless coolants are another step in the bad direction.
 
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