Just moved into my new house 2 weeks ago and the limestone driveways driving me nuts already, getting estimates today on concrete and it seems $10-12$ sq ft is common place, does this sound reasonable? It's a smaller driveway so the price is a bit higher than if I had a huge driveway to pour looking at 15x22 with a 3x3 pad in front of my man door on the garage connected to the pad and 6 inches between house and garage on either side. So far I've had quotes of 3800 and 4200. I'm thinking 3800 sounds fair but I'd like input, keep in mind I'm in Canada where everything's expensive.
Driveway pricing
- Thread starter seanf
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I take it you're not living in Alberta. Replacing a standard driveway (replacement is typically twice the cost of a new install) is over $20K in our neighbourhood.
A driveway on a new house always sinks. I'd be tempted to wait at least a year, or better yet install an interlocking brick driveway. I built an interlocking brick patio (over the place where the loader went into the basement) and as expected had to redo it 5 or so years later. Do it yourself interlocking brick used to cost about the same as a poured concrete drive, so I saved a bunch by not having to pay for the inevitable reinstallation, not to mention it looked a lot better. It's actually not that hard. A lot of work and hard on the hands yes. And you do need a packer and a thick layer of compacted gravel under everything. And of course you'll have to rent a diamond saw or pay to have a few custom cuts.
A tip - If you're going to do interlocking brick, wrap your fingers with duck tape. Hard to get off, yes but saves your skin.
A driveway on a new house always sinks. I'd be tempted to wait at least a year, or better yet install an interlocking brick driveway. I built an interlocking brick patio (over the place where the loader went into the basement) and as expected had to redo it 5 or so years later. Do it yourself interlocking brick used to cost about the same as a poured concrete drive, so I saved a bunch by not having to pay for the inevitable reinstallation, not to mention it looked a lot better. It's actually not that hard. A lot of work and hard on the hands yes. And you do need a packer and a thick layer of compacted gravel under everything. And of course you'll have to rent a diamond saw or pay to have a few custom cuts.
A tip - If you're going to do interlocking brick, wrap your fingers with duck tape. Hard to get off, yes but saves your skin.
I installed a 16x18 interlocking patio in our old house. I want concrete because on nice days I prefer working on cars outside and not in the garage. Our new house is an infill in a 100 year old neighbourhood and the driveway is lane access as well which is why its so small I just want one parking spot. I am in Winnipeg.
Should be able to get good competetive pricing in Winnipeg. You'll pay more per square foot for a really small job though.
Suggest you get quotes specifying how deep they'll dig, minimum depth of compacted gravel, how many inches of concrete and some indication of how much rebar they'll be putting in.
Should have a discussion with the contractor about the pros and cons of drilling into your current (I assume) concrete slab and inserting the rebar. If you do, you might crack the slab. If you don't, the driveway will sink.
And it'll still crack! Pretty much always does.
You may have a building code in Manitoba that specifies construction minimums. It's a good starting point.
In Saskatoon we insisted on suphate resistant concrete but I don't know if that's an issue in Winnipeg.
And I'd be there the day they pour. Once the concrete is poured, what is down there is anybody's guess.
Suggest you get quotes specifying how deep they'll dig, minimum depth of compacted gravel, how many inches of concrete and some indication of how much rebar they'll be putting in.
Should have a discussion with the contractor about the pros and cons of drilling into your current (I assume) concrete slab and inserting the rebar. If you do, you might crack the slab. If you don't, the driveway will sink.
And it'll still crack! Pretty much always does.
You may have a building code in Manitoba that specifies construction minimums. It's a good starting point.
In Saskatoon we insisted on suphate resistant concrete but I don't know if that's an issue in Winnipeg.
And I'd be there the day they pour. Once the concrete is poured, what is down there is anybody's guess.
Many things to consider here.
Your soil, is it expansive? In the USA the country agriculture department probably knows. You can also hire a geologist or civil engineer. The quick way is how much dies it crack when it gets dry. Here in Missouri, I have had 3/4 inch wide cracks in the ground during summer drought. Here to be at all successful you must excavate at least a foot and use rock base. Then it needs compacted. Best way is to drive on the base for a year, and then before setting concrete have it rolled. You can roll and water a few times, takes a lot of water though.
Next is rebar. At least on 2 foot centers. I prefer 1 foot. I use the epoxy coated rebar.
Then you have the cement. I like to ask for an extra sack per yard, if you really want good stuff, get state highway mix. Make sure the crew only adds the minimum amount of water to place. They get lazy and like it soupy. That will be weak concrete. Then as the concrete company what additives, like air, sulfate, calcium, Ice etc you need for your weather. Make sure the aggregate does not contain sandstone or shale, that makes popouts. You want a minimum of 4 inches, for the transition from the street to the drive and the drive to the garage I make it 5 or 6 inches for extra strength. Your walk pad can be 3.5 inches. They use 2X4 for forms, then you need to stretch a string and measure to make sure you have 4 inches. Tap the edge of the forms with a hammer to consolidate the concrete for better appearance and edge strength.
Then you cure. You can use a spray sealer, or cover with burlap or old carpet that you keep wet. At least 2X daily. For minimum of 7 days, 21 is better before you take off the Forms. Saw every 8 to 12 feet. Saw more often the more expansive your soil. Here with our sun, I prefer to cover, keeps the concrete from overheating. I suspect in Canada you will not have that problem.
All this will cost more. This driveway will last for 30 or more years without cracking. The one at my dads house we set when I was 20. I am 59 now and it has 1 crack. The saw we rented broke and we did not make that last cut. Opps.
Your concrete placing crew will hate you. You are paying for it, they have no choice.
Rod
Your soil, is it expansive? In the USA the country agriculture department probably knows. You can also hire a geologist or civil engineer. The quick way is how much dies it crack when it gets dry. Here in Missouri, I have had 3/4 inch wide cracks in the ground during summer drought. Here to be at all successful you must excavate at least a foot and use rock base. Then it needs compacted. Best way is to drive on the base for a year, and then before setting concrete have it rolled. You can roll and water a few times, takes a lot of water though.
Next is rebar. At least on 2 foot centers. I prefer 1 foot. I use the epoxy coated rebar.
Then you have the cement. I like to ask for an extra sack per yard, if you really want good stuff, get state highway mix. Make sure the crew only adds the minimum amount of water to place. They get lazy and like it soupy. That will be weak concrete. Then as the concrete company what additives, like air, sulfate, calcium, Ice etc you need for your weather. Make sure the aggregate does not contain sandstone or shale, that makes popouts. You want a minimum of 4 inches, for the transition from the street to the drive and the drive to the garage I make it 5 or 6 inches for extra strength. Your walk pad can be 3.5 inches. They use 2X4 for forms, then you need to stretch a string and measure to make sure you have 4 inches. Tap the edge of the forms with a hammer to consolidate the concrete for better appearance and edge strength.
Then you cure. You can use a spray sealer, or cover with burlap or old carpet that you keep wet. At least 2X daily. For minimum of 7 days, 21 is better before you take off the Forms. Saw every 8 to 12 feet. Saw more often the more expansive your soil. Here with our sun, I prefer to cover, keeps the concrete from overheating. I suspect in Canada you will not have that problem.
All this will cost more. This driveway will last for 30 or more years without cracking. The one at my dads house we set when I was 20. I am 59 now and it has 1 crack. The saw we rented broke and we did not make that last cut. Opps.
Your concrete placing crew will hate you. You are paying for it, they have no choice.
Rod
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here in Manitoba driveways are MINIMUM 5.5-6" thick, the lowest quote I have is from the concrete guy that did my old driveway at my old place and in 2 years there was not a crack to be seen on it. I can't remember how much compacted limestone base but I'm fairly certain its at least 6" thick, I want to say 8-10", rebar is 16-18" centre and 32 MPA concrete.
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