Do I need to "bed in" Akebono ProAct Pads?
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Driving normally should be fine
Drive a little easy for the first 500 miles and you will be fine. Those pads do not require any bedding, but you should avoid hard braking for the first 500 miles.
No, you don't need to bed them in
If they instruct to bed them in, do so. If no instructions, i'd drive normally.
They scorch the surface of their OEM pads on new cars for that already broken in feel. The reason for bedding/breaking in is the organic materials in the pads such as rubber, cork or walnut hulls. These are considered noise deadeners but put off gas as well as the binding agent that holds it all together. The ProAct pads do not get the same pre-scorching in their process so the bedding is definitely recommended.
2civics - pretty close by.
There are alot of things that you would not expect and they are considered a Ceramic pad but also and organic pad. There is also a small amount of kevlar that really increases life span and smoothness. Each batch is made in basically a 5 gallon pail so they are small batch but that is quite a few brake pads.
There are alot of things that you would not expect and they are considered a Ceramic pad but also and organic pad. There is also a small amount of kevlar that really increases life span and smoothness. Each batch is made in basically a 5 gallon pail so they are small batch but that is quite a few brake pads.
Akebono actually touts the lack of bed in as an advantage for their pads. I use them too and I bet you will really like them.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85&
Looked up a link at tirerack that state the different bedding procedures. It is not what some think of when bedding that you actually hold the brake pedal short distance and release to off gas. With the Akebono Proact pads if you brake too hard then the resin will glaze up the rotors too fast to burn it off. If can actually ruin the pads.
Looked up a link at tirerack that state the different bedding procedures. It is not what some think of when bedding that you actually hold the brake pedal short distance and release to off gas. With the Akebono Proact pads if you brake too hard then the resin will glaze up the rotors too fast to burn it off. If can actually ruin the pads.
I have a simple bed-in procedure I've used the last few years. Most recently, a few weeks ago w/Akebono ceramics on a Lexus. Great results.
This was recommended by a manufacturer when I did a meta-survey of this subject. It sounded the most physically logical to me of my survey and conformed closely with what had worked perfectly for decades for me with motorcycles.
A) At 60mph, brake agressively down to 30mph, near lock-up.
B) release at 30 mph and cruise for a mile or so for cooling, while accelerating back to 60.
c) Repeat a/b for 10 cycles.
I did this recently and the results were great; the new ceramic pads bite amazingly,no dust, and don't fade from what I have tried yet (there was new fluid a few months before the pad swap).
I am sure you can get away with no break-in, but this really seems to split the difference between excessive wear-in and nothing, and it gives results consistently. It is easy to do unless you live in a dense urban area.
I'm a bit of a fetishist about brakes; my bikes/cars have the best pads I can get, braided lines on any performance machine, bleeds once a year and flushes every 2. I have seen a difference in long-term performance and longevity with this proceedure.
This was recommended by a manufacturer when I did a meta-survey of this subject. It sounded the most physically logical to me of my survey and conformed closely with what had worked perfectly for decades for me with motorcycles.
A) At 60mph, brake agressively down to 30mph, near lock-up.
B) release at 30 mph and cruise for a mile or so for cooling, while accelerating back to 60.
c) Repeat a/b for 10 cycles.
I did this recently and the results were great; the new ceramic pads bite amazingly,no dust, and don't fade from what I have tried yet (there was new fluid a few months before the pad swap).
I am sure you can get away with no break-in, but this really seems to split the difference between excessive wear-in and nothing, and it gives results consistently. It is easy to do unless you live in a dense urban area.
I'm a bit of a fetishist about brakes; my bikes/cars have the best pads I can get, braided lines on any performance machine, bleeds once a year and flushes every 2. I have seen a difference in long-term performance and longevity with this proceedure.
I have used Pro-ACT pads in the past, and will continue to use them, and I have not done anything special in terms of break-in, as instructed by Akebono.
Brake bedding MUST be adjusted for the vehicle. Small economy cars do not need the same speeds or procedure as cars with larger brakes.
Many pad materials do not require it at all. It's not a one size fits all procedure...
Many pad materials do not require it at all. It's not a one size fits all procedure...
I have never done a break-in on new brakes.
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