I want to protect my car that sits outside all day

[2civics]

With your Accord being garaged and having the FK1000 combined, you should get a really good long term result.

I am hoping to get a couple of months out of FK1000 sitting in the direct sun. We shall see.
So you've had good luck with on/ off thus far. That's good to know.

 

[ryanschillinger]

I just used the last of my spray wax and received Chemical Guys V07 spray sealant/ detailed hybrid. Haven't tried it yet, but should do a good job prolonging the sealant on the paint already. I use the spray wax after every wash. Figure on doing the same with the v07.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
I put FK1000P on my Accord...which is always garaged.

I put Sonax Net Shield with a ReJex "topper" on the Forester...which is always outside.

This is the first time I've ever tried FK1000P or the Sonax product. The Sonax Net Shield gives a really deep gloss. I was impressed.


How do you find Rejex as a "topper"? I was told by a local store that specializes in selling detailing products that Rejex should be applied only to a clean clayed car and not go over another wax or sealant. He said it cut down on how long the Rejex lasts. Thanks.

 

[Garak]

That's what I gathered from the Rejex site, too.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: Garak
That's what I gathered from the Rejex site, too.


Ahhhh, No. Unless you read something that I didn't find on their website.

ReJex's site actually says that their product CAN be applied over another product, even a carnuba wax, but the life expectancy of ReJex will be great decreased.
They go on to explain that once the wax breaks down (the base layer), it will wash away and take the ReJex with it. Makes total sense.

From the site: "RejeX can be used over existing wax, however, the duration of protection will be reduced as the softer underlying wax degrades comparatively quickly."

Since, I applied Sonax Net Shield (a long lasting sealant) and immediately applied ReJex, I've got a good, long lasting base coat of protection. The ReJex topper has the potential to cross-link with the Net Shield base as well. On the roof of the car, I only applied Net Shield, so I'm curious to see if the ReJex "topper" (I'll compare the hood, that has a ReJex topper....to the roof, which has only Net Shield) provides any extra protection/longevity.

In the worst case, the ReJex topper didn't adhere to the Net Shield, and it simply slid off the surface. But I don't think that happened, because the feel of the paint was dramatically different between the Net Shield only surface vs. the Net Shield with ReJex topper surface.

 

[Garak]

Hmmm, isn't that what I said? I don't recall saying you must not put it over anything else. I personally wouldn't, but what I read is exactly what you quoted, and that's what I was talking about.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Garak
That's what I gathered from the Rejex site, too.


Ahhhh, No. Unless you read something that I didn't find on their website.

ReJex's site actually says that their product CAN be applied over another product, even a carnuba wax, but the life expectancy of ReJex will be great decreased.
They go on to explain that once the wax breaks down (the base layer), it will wash away and take the ReJex with it. Makes total sense.

From the site: "RejeX can be used over existing wax, however, the duration of protection will be reduced as the softer underlying wax degrades comparatively quickly."

Since, I applied Sonax Net Shield (a long lasting sealant) and immediately applied ReJex, I've got a good, long lasting base coat of protection. The ReJex topper has the potential to cross-link with the Net Shield base as well. On the roof of the car, I only applied Net Shield, so I'm curious to see if the ReJex "topper" (I'll compare the hood, that has a ReJex topper....to the roof, which has only Net Shield) provides any extra protection/longevity.

In the worst case, the ReJex topper didn't adhere to the Net Shield, and it simply slid off the surface. But I don't think that happened, because the feel of the paint was dramatically different between the Net Shield only surface vs. the Net Shield with ReJex topper surface.



So the info the guy who sells the stuff told me was right. Basically he said it wouldn't last as long going over another product. So far I only used it over itself or a clayed car. It sounds like your system is working well though.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
It sounds like your system is working well though.


We'll see. It's only been a a couple of months since I applied the Sonax and/or ReJex on the Subie. I washed the car last weekend and couldn't tell any difference in the appearance of the finish. But the ReJex topped hood did feel "smoother" than the just the Sonax'ed roof.....whatever that means. So, I assume, the ReJex is still there.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
It sounds like your system is working well though.


We'll see. It's only been a a couple of months since I applied the Sonax and/or ReJex on the Subie. I washed the car last weekend and couldn't tell any difference in the appearance of the finish. But the ReJex topped hood did feel "smoother" than the just the Sonax'ed roof.....whatever that means. So, I assume, the ReJex is still there.


Time will tell. I have Collinite 845 over Rejex on my Jeep, and I will probably be waxing it within the next 2 weeks. The Jeep is garaged, and the wax is on over a year, but still beads water like I just did it. I don't feel like claying it, and I'm not sure if I should use Rejex or the Collinite????? My goal is two get a few coats on it before the winter.

 

[Phishin]

With over a year on the wax, I'd want to just start over.

Wash with Dawn and go over with a nano skin sponge, wipe down with IPA, and either just use your Collinite or go ahead and use ReJex, wait until the next day, and then top off with your wax.

But I don't think I'd want to wax/ReJex over a year's worth of oxidation.

Recently, some from here told me that Claying was for the birds, and to use this instead....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAW...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
With over a year on the wax, I'd want to just start over.

Wash with Dawn and go over with a nano skin sponge, wipe down with IPA, and either just use your Collinite or go ahead and use ReJex, wait until the next day, and then top off with your wax.

But I don't think I'd want to wax/ReJex over a year's worth of oxidation.

Recently, some from here told me that Claying was for the birds, and to use this instead....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAW...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER


That sponge is a new one to me, I'll have to read up on it.

The coating on the Jeep is shedding water like it was just waxed yesterday. It is garaged and that helps a lot. I do agree about a fresh start, just because of how long the wax products are on there it's a good idea. Thanks!

 

[grampi]

Originally Posted By: RTexasF
Originally Posted By: 2civics
What is the best for protecting the finish of a car? I'm not even concerned about best shine. I just want the most durable and long lasting protectant for my paint since it sits outside 24/7. Would a sealant be an option? Thanks

I currently use NXT Generation Tech wax 2.0. I'm told this stuff sucks? Help.....


This IS a sealant but among the very worst for durability in spite of what the "knowledgeable" people say. Easy on and off does not make a durable sealant. If you use it every month then it will work just fine. To me that is hardly a durable product.

Duragloss #105 mixed with #601 is good for a minimum of six months. So is Collinite #845. This is providing the surface is stripped completely and made ready for either product. Preparation is the key but the product is also important.



I have yet to find ANY Meguiar's products that last...

 

[2civics]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
With over a year on the wax, I'd want to just start over.

Wash with Dawn and go over with a nano skin sponge, wipe down with IPA, and either just use your Collinite or go ahead and use ReJex, wait until the next day, and then top off with your wax.

But I don't think I'd want to wax/ReJex over a year's worth of oxidation.

Recently, some from here told me that Claying was for the birds, and to use this instead....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAW...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Sponge is new to me too. Without being able to knead the surface for a fresh surface, I wonder how well that holds up compared to a clay bar.

 

[2civics]

Okay. Well I have spent some time reading up on the nanoskin sponge and I have to say not being able to see the contaminants that are coming off the car would be a drawback for me. Interesting concept though. Would be interested to hear more of how it goes with others.

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: 2civics
Sponge is new to me too. Without being able to knead the surface for a fresh surface, I wonder how well that holds up compared to a clay bar.


Simply clean the sponge off by rinsing it or dunking it in a bucket of water. Here are some reviews:

http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-speedy-prep-sponge-fine-grade.html#reviews

There's even a version you attach to a polisher:

http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-system.html

This excellent detail shop uses it on a Ferrari 458:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/18-mai...-opti-coat.html

 

[2civics]

Thanks. I bought the fine grade to try out the next time I have to detail. If they are using it on a Ferrari 458 then I guess I can be comfortable using it on my similarly expensive civic.