2015 F350 diesel need cleaner oil

[roadrunner1]

The Motorcraft oil filter is $13.50 from the dealer, and for oil I pay $15.50 per gallon for 10w-30, so in round numbers I have about $70.00 per OC. I figured buying 4 gallons, so every OC I have 3 quarts remaining as I purchase my oil in gallon containers.

As with anything else if someone feels better paying more for something thats required thats their business.

 

[sdude2k2000]

Originally Posted By: stchman
It's CRAZY how expensive an oil change for that truck is.

According to documentation the engine with filter change takes 13 quarts. Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel is $26.83 per gallon at Walmart here in the USA. If the OP goes with a Mobil 1 oil filter (M1-405), that filter is $30.

The OP is looking at ~$145USD just in oil and a filter. YIKES!!!!!!


You picked like the most expensive 5w40 synthetic mass-market oil you could to make that analogy lol.

 

[CrazyMike]

Awesome info, thx everyone. I've sent off uoa before, all changes show lots of additives remaining but high silica count, very dusty here. Doesn't change with stock intake/stock filter or the s&b intake with dry filter and wrap I'm using now. Changing exhaust and re calibrating flow doesn't change frequency either. This truck from what I've seen even though ford claims no loss in mpg with the 440/860 output, it's a pantload. I have '11-14 diesels in fleet, they all have better mpg in same conditions, and regen half the time with twice the kms.

The '15 gets fully warmed up every day, at least 40kms of highway a day with around town driving. The mineral 15/40's start out fine, but becomes frequent with regens as the oil dirties up. Filters have been wix or oem, no noticeable difference.

Full synthetics, 0w40 or Mobil delvac 5w40, or this current synthetic blend, they all are descent when fresh, and last a bit longer before frequent regens become irritating, the current syn blend excluding since it's only been a week since the change.

I was assuming the euro specs "may" be cleaner or more refined than the cj-4 options I've tried, extending the time between regen cycles. IMO, outside of a delete, and or adding a amsoil/Donaldson bypass system with a fine micron filter, I don't think there's much I can do. I've read, and been told more than once, there's been great results up here with amsoil's 15/40 cj-4, and it has great properties against cylinder wash with newer dpf diesels, I just hate boutique lubes. The calibration of the dpf on this truck has been checked by dealer more than once. If the 229.51 is a poor choice I'll keep focus on the cj-4 products, a delete or at least a bypass to filter better.

 

[roadrunner1]

Try a 10w-30

 

[Garak]

Maybe Delvac 1 LE 5w-30 could be an option, assuming that's an appropriate, approved viscosity. The price is certainly right at Imperial Oil.

 

[mobilaltima]

Delete it. 4 or 5 inch exhaust and an EGR delete and roll with it.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: CrazyMike
Awesome info, thx everyone. I've sent off uoa before, all changes show lots of additives remaining but high silica count, very dusty here. Doesn't change with stock intake/stock filter or the s&b intake with dry filter and wrap I'm using now. Changing exhaust and re calibrating flow doesn't change frequency either. This truck from what I've seen even though ford claims no loss in mpg with the 440/860 output, it's a pantload. I have '11-14 diesels in fleet, they all have better mpg in same conditions, and regen half the time with twice the kms.

The '15 gets fully warmed up every day, at least 40kms of highway a day with around town driving. The mineral 15/40's start out fine, but becomes frequent with regens as the oil dirties up. Filters have been wix or oem, no noticeable difference.

Full synthetics, 0w40 or Mobil delvac 5w40, or this current synthetic blend, they all are descent when fresh, and last a bit longer before frequent regens become irritating, the current syn blend excluding since it's only been a week since the change.

I was assuming the euro specs "may" be cleaner or more refined than the cj-4 options I've tried, extending the time between regen cycles. IMO, outside of a delete, and or adding a amsoil/Donaldson bypass system with a fine micron filter, I don't think there's much I can do. I've read, and been told more than once, there's been great results up here with amsoil's 15/40 cj-4, and it has great properties against cylinder wash with newer dpf diesels, I just hate boutique lubes. The calibration of the dpf on this truck has been checked by dealer more than once. If the 229.51 is a poor choice I'll keep focus on the cj-4 products, a delete or at least a bypass to filter better.



Again - I don't understand how/why you are equating your regen cycles to the type base stock you use ... What criteria are you using to measure the perceived differences?

If you believe that the base stock has something to do with the regens, then you need to define a reliable measurement system, track accurately in a log, and then manage the data with some credible form of analysis.

At this point, because you've not done this, it's all incidentally anecdotal. Your perception is tainting your observations, and your conclusions are completely biased.

You CANNOT use regen cycles as a means to judge a lube; there's just no conscionable way to get there.

And just what evidence, testimony or even guttural uttering have you be subjected to that makes you believe that a bypass filter will alter your regen cycles?

Regens are predicated on several engine operational criteria (temps, time since last regen, duty cycle loading, etc) as well as back-pressure from the DPF. How is it that you believe the lubes/filters alters these things?



You are confusing correlation with causation.

 

[JFK]

Oil used will not affect regen unless it is so volatile you are getting lots of consumption.

Regen is more about fuel.

 

[Bzab32]

Agreed with above, oil has nothing to do with regens, I usually get around 750-900 miles between regens on my 6.4L. The big thing with these engines is there problem of "making oil" so they need to be changed every 5K miles. Msking sure to drain you water separator, buying only quality fuel, and using cetane boost has really helped with the regens

 

[BobS]

Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
Try a 10w-30


I thought that 10w-30 or 5w-30 was the recommended oil in the new Ford engine and all the oils that the OP has mentioned are 40w oils and he is in Canada- colder climate.

 

[dnewton3]

It is the recommended vis unless you're "severe" duty, then they recommend 5w-40. Which is stupid to me, because if you're using your diesel truck like a real work truck, then you'll be "severe" by any definition. You know, things like towing, hauling, year-round temps, etc ...

They are essentially responding to a market division; lot's of folks now buy diesels and treat them like daily commuters, so they offer things for better fuel economy such as lower vis oils. They reserve the thicker lubes for "severe" use.

However, in all my data analysis and personal testing, I've not seen any reason to think that either a 30 grade or a 40 grade shows any darn difference in terms of real world wear rate protection. It's just not there! So why care?

If someone wants a commuter truck, they need to get a 1/2 ton with a gasser. Even these trucks today are super-capable; they are darn close in terms of towing/hauling to what my 2006 1-ton can do!

I have a cousin whose son works for Cummins now, after graduation. He was an intern there for a few years before full hire. One of his summer projects was to help in a study of the effects of short and light-duty cycles on diesels and the results in regens and DPF loading. He studied "spotters" (aka yard trucks) that are used intermittently to move trailers around warehouse lots, etc. These things suffer in that they never get up to temp and stay there. They wet-stack, they regen often, they have high fuel and soot loads due to low heat, etc.

Using a diesel like a gasser is a recipe for disappointment. But using diesel like a real hard-working truck (ironically what the OEM would call "severe") is EXACTLY what the truck was designed for. And using a 30 grade where a 40 is recommended shows absolutely no difference in real world performance in wear protection.

What I find wholly ironic is that watching today's commercials, and seeing the capability data from the big three (Ford, GM, Ram), you'd swear these trucks were infused with testosterone right at the factory. These trucks (from 1/2 to 1-ton) all make more power, have more capacity for towing, have more braking power than anything we've ever seen before. But then they say it's "severe" to use them like a truck? What a bunch of hooey!

Wear data analysis shows that any modern diesel does just as well on 10w-30 as it does on a 40 grade. And yet the OEMs say "severe" service commands thicker oil? I see ZERO proof of this being true. Not that using a 40 grades hurts the truck; it certainly won't. But it really does not "help" the truck either; that's old-skool mentality. And for someone who only drives 10k miles "ish" a year, they'll never wear out their truck anyway. And the fuel savings is minimal by using a 30 grade. It's just a silly moot topic that only BITOGers find worthy of banter.

But fleet ops and BIG equipment (off-road mining, etc) can save big money in fuel by using thinner lubes. And yet what would you call the service factor of a Cat D-10 or Komatsu PC650 excavator, if you consider towing your RV is "severe"?


Ford is stuck in the "thicker is better" mentality because it costs them absolutely nothing to have a recommendation that affects the consumer and not the OEM. They don't pay for your OCIs and they don't pay for your fuel. So it is easy for them to say "Hey - we recommend a synthetic 5w-40 if you're going to use the truck to tow something ..." You know, using a truck like a truck and not a car.

 

[TiredTrucker]

Well, the heavy diesel OEM's are factory filling with 10w30 CJ-4. Cummins, Detroit, Mack, Volvo, Navistar, Paccar, etc. Now, they seem to think that it is good to use in a 13-15L motor pulling 80,000 lb anywhere from the Arctic Circle to the Rio Grande, coast to coast. Not sure why a good 10w30 or 5w30 HDEO would not be the ticket in the PStroke.

I agree, operating a diesel like a gasser is not a good thing. If one has a definitive need for diesel, that is one thing. To get one to prove their machismo to the neighborhood is another. My primary needs are hauling, not towing. So I got the 6.0L gasser in the Siverado 2500HD. And it will tow anything I have in mind to tow any time I want, and do it quite well. I save the diesel for my heavy trucks.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
I agree, operating a diesel like a gasser is not a good thing.

My dad stated that many times, and that was long before all this emissions stuff made things difficult on the diesel crowd. If he was going on the highway and/or towing, the diesel was used. If it was puttering around town, one of the gassers got used.

 

[ChrisGuerrero]

Originally Posted By: CrazyMike
My 2015 regens lots, every 250-300kms, goes for 20-25minutes, losing lots of fuel this way. I've ran 15/40 cj-4 mineral, coop and shell, 5w40 delvac Mobil, coop 0w40 full syn for the winter, currently trying a coop 5w40 syn blend. All seem fine early on but once I get to 2,500-3000 miles it really kicks In every 3-4 days. I'd like to try a Mobil esp 5w40 formula M I have on the shelf for the wife's 2014 MB diesel. It's a 229.51 rating, all the cj-4's I've been using are 228.31 rated. I've switched the wife's rig to 229.52, latest and greatest for MB so I have this stuff on the shelf. It doesn't show any ratings other than European. Thoughts on trying this stuff out on my f350? Thx for the time.


Hello CrazyMike – You are correct, the Mercedes Benz 229.52 is the current diesel engine oil specification for their most recent diesel engines. However, the MB 229.52 rated motor oil does not meet the API CJ-4 classification which is required for your 2015 Ford F-350 6.7L Diesel. With that said, we think Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic HDEO would be a good choice for your F-350. Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic is based on free-flowing synthetic base oils that allow reliable pumping on start-up under cold climate conditions. Yet, it remains thick enough under high temperature operations to protect against wear. Hope this info helps! – The Shell Rotella Team

 

[dnewton3]

Always up-selling, isn't he ...


You don't "need" a syn; you don't "need" T6. Sure - it will work fine. But it would do just as well on TP, or any other CJ-4 lube.

Any CJ-4 lube will do a great job for normal OCIs regardless of how "severe" you use the truck. And none of them are going to significantly alter the regens, which is what the OP was after.

 

[m37charlie]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Always up-selling, isn't he ...


You don't "need" a syn; you don't "need" T6. Sure - it will work fine. But it would do just as well on TP, or any other CJ-4 lube.

Any CJ-4 lube will do a great job for normal OCIs regardless of how "severe" you use the truck. And none of them are going to significantly alter the regens, which is what the OP was after.


Except for the fact that the OP lives in central BC, which is pretty cold in the winter, colder than where I live by far (unless he's on the coast).
But I agree whatever oil will have no effect on the regens; only a delete will do that. And allow longer OCIs due to no fuel pollution of the oil.

Charlie

 

[spiderbypass]

The only oil pep boys has for reasonable price is Mobil 1 Delvac Esp 5w40. Is 27 dollars at Pep Boys in Baltimore County. They charge 35 for TDT.

 

[Garak]

The OP won't be able to hit Pep Boys unless he crosses the border, and Delvac 1 ESP from the distributor is usually cheaper than M1 TDT from anyplace.

 

[roadrunner1]

I just changed the oil in my 6.7 and will post UOA when data gets back.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: m37charlie
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Always up-selling, isn't he ...


You don't "need" a syn; you don't "need" T6. Sure - it will work fine. But it would do just as well on TP, or any other CJ-4 lube.

Any CJ-4 lube will do a great job for normal OCIs regardless of how "severe" you use the truck. And none of them are going to significantly alter the regens, which is what the OP was after.


Except for the fact that the OP lives in central BC, which is pretty cold in the winter, colder than where I live by far (unless he's on the coast).
But I agree whatever oil will have no effect on the regens; only a delete will do that. And allow longer OCIs due to no fuel pollution of the oil.

Charlie



Shell has the T5 in 10w-30. The cold-weather performance is essentially the same as T6 5w-40. (Admittedly not exactly, but so darn close in similarity that practical delineation would be near impossible to ascertain in start-up routine). So if cold starts are the issue, then there are choices from the Rotella line that do offer the same benefits for less cost.

Additionally, I would contend that the 10w-30 will hold it's vis "better" (longer and more stable) than the HIGHLY dosed T6 with all its VIIs. T6 has a history of shearing; T5 10w-30 does not. Shearing does not automatically imply a loss of protection, but for those who seem hung up on using a 40 grade, the T6 won't be one for very long ... And so if the desire to follow Ford's recommendation (using a 5w-40) is the utmost goal of the OP, then T6 may not be the best fit. And if the T6 will become a 30 grade soon, why not just feed it a 30 grade in the first place?

Understanding that this 6.7L engine does not use HEUI, we can still see what happens between T6 and T5 and dino TP products, in other engines. The 30 grades of T5 and TP hold their vis very, very well, even with HEUI. The T6 does not, and it becomes a 30 grade. I would much rather have a lube that stays in grade than one that drops from shearing. While protection (wear control) may not be grossly affected, it does speak to the integrity of the overall product package. Oils with fewer VIIs have more room in their solubility for other advantageous products in their add-pack. As much as I am the one to preach about concern for wear-control (it is the reason we use lubes, after all), I don't just ignore other characteristics of the lubricant world.

In UOA data, I have seen absolutely nothing to indicate that T5 is inferior to T6 in terms of wear-control, even in "severe" conditions as defined by the manual; even TP does as well as T6 in this regard. So if wear control is assured, and you can get the same vis (a 30 grade, or one that becomes a 30 grade), they why pay more for the T6? If cold starts are an issue, get the T5. If not, get the TP.



But my point was that Chris's answer most often to any thread here is T6, regardless of the question or a thorough review of the application. While I agree that T6 will often fit in just about any application for CJ-4, it is typically not the better choice, when all attributes and operational conditions are considered.