if I run racing oil in my modern street car, what

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I understand the zddp is going to poison the converter at 2 or 3 times the rate of a street oil. Say I don't care about that since this car sees very few miles.

The other big problem is the lack of enough detergents. But I thought an ester based oil has natural cleaning abilities.

I'm not convinced a racing oil is really a big problem.
 
No problem at all. I have thousands of miles on Dominator in my sig car. It actually works very well.

It is my understanding that the only thing it doesn't do well is go long OCI's....
 
Valvoline and Pennzoil both told me their racing oils are perfect to use in normal street cars.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
No problem at all. I have thousands of miles on Dominator in my sig car. It actually works very well.

It is my understanding that the only thing it doesn't do well is go long OCI's....


I want to go 4 years and 15k miles like I did with German castrol.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The amount of cat contamination is directly related to how much oil the engine consumes. Still take 150K or so with an oil burner.


Right. And they have to plan for the worst case of 1000mi per quart or so. I believe the cat poisoning calcs are very conservative. It was only using a quart every 6-8 k mi on the GC.
 
There is street racing oil then there is straight racing oil that lacks TBN and wont protect your engine from combustion byproducts etc for very long.

Using a street racing oil such as valvoline VR1 is different from a racing only oil.
 
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I wouldn't use a racing oil for 15k, not enough TBN especially at 4 years in service which will have some oxidation in the mix.

Better off with a compromise like Mobil 1 High Mileage that has API SL ZDDP levels plus lots of detergent or a LL01 full saps oil.

If this is for your leaking car Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 should do the trick.
 
VR1 syn isn't that bad and comes in 10W30. Ran it a few times in my mustang. They have "race only" oils as well that are pretty much 10-12 passes on the 1/4 and that's it.
 
Mix a quart of M1 0w-30 racing oil with the rest street M1 0w-30 AFE, then you'd have the mix of detergents from both, and the elevated levels of moly & zddp boosting the mixture from the racing oil.
 
Take a look at the 5W40 Mobil SHC in the VOA thread.
Call that a race oil if you want.
High SAPS HDMOs from 10W, 0W30 all the way to SAE 50 from several oil companies.
 
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I've already put klotz esterline racing in it. Its an SL/cf ccmc g5 racing oil. Its supposed to be ester.

I only put 4 quarts in of 5 capacity so I have room to mix in something else such as a high detergent oil or detergent/tbn boosting additives to "correct" the situation.
 
Run down to the Gloster fish dock where they filmed The Perfect Storm and grab a pint of 70 TBN SAE 50.
Top it off with JTO, and a few other ingredients that are
a secret, like undetectium 1000.
 
I think oxidation and neutralizing crankcase acids would be the problem in making a race oil do a long oci.

You either run a race oil like it was intended and frequently change the oil or you run a correctly blended longlife oil. There would be no benefit to the engine in trying to force one to do the other.

What performance increase do you think you will get over the Castrol oil you are using at the moment?
 
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