converted the vette from 1157 to 3157

[turtlevette]

It seems the aftermarket 1157 sockets are real junkie. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't depending on whether you hit a bump or whatever.

I got a tip off the vette forums to use the 3157 socket harness. The more modern version. We'll see how it works out but the connection seems more positive and reliable.

Led 1157s wouldn't even work in my existing sockets.

 

[Vern_in_IL]

With the 1156/1157 bulbs you MUST use dielectric grease or they will corrode.

It is 1960's tech.

 

[turtlevette]

Its more than just corrosion. The cheap sockets don't hold the bulb in far enough to get good contact with both rails. The ground doesn't make good connection being sloppy in the bore.

Its just a bad design. So hopefully its less likely the new units will quit working mid drive and cause me to get pulled over by a trigger happy cop.

 

[901Memphis]

The 5702KA is specified by Gm now to help with longer life due to the higher alternator voltages of Gm, might want to try some of those if you have issues with the 3157

 

[turtlevette]

Found this
, output listed bright/dim:

3057: 32/2 candlepower (also 3057K, 3057LL)
3057A: Amber version (also 3057NA, 3057NA/K, 3057NA/LL...)

3157: 32/3 candlepower (3157K, 3157LL)
3157A: Amber version (3157NA, NA/K, NA/LL...)

3357: 40/3 candlepower (3357K, LL...)
3357A: Amber version (NA, NA/K, NA/LL...)

3457: 40/3 candlepower, high-heat base (K, LL...)
3457A: Amber version (NA, NA/K, NA/LL...)

4157: 32/3 candlepower extra long life (K, LL)
4157A: Amber version (NA, NA/K, NA/LL...)

4114: 32/3 candlepower ultra long life (K, LL)
5702KA: Amber version

Looks like I should ditch the 3157 for the 3357 to get brighter brake lights.

 

[901Memphis]

The 5702KA is not any brighter than the 4157NA, but the lifespan is much better.

 

[turtlevette]

My old car does not use amber lights. The regulator charges at around 13.5 v so I don't need the high voltage bulbs.

 

[901Memphis]

Here is some info i got for you.

The brightest widely commercialized bulb in that family is 3357/3457 (same burner; the 3457 has a higher-heat plastic base). The major filament in 3357/3457 produces 503 lumens, compared to the 402 lumens from a 3057 or 3157 major filament.

 

[turtlevette]

What would you recommend for a cost effective led type bulb. Something really bright but with good distinction between tail and brake brightness.

There are tons of stuff on eBay. Who's tried some of these?

 

[901Memphis]

Most of the eBay stuff is illegal junk. You pay premium for the right bulbs

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Most of the eBay stuff is illegal junk. You pay premium for the right bulbs


Not going to pay 25 bucks for a single bulb. I'll play with the junk.

 

[901Memphis]

The cheap stuff is downright dangerous. Don't be surprised if someone rear ends you because they couldn't see your brake lights or someone doesn't see your back up lights for instance if you replace those with cheapos. The cheap led bulbs have awful viewing angles.

Don't say I didn't warn you!

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The cheap stuff is downright dangerous. Don't be surprised if someone rear ends you because they couldn't see your brake lights or someone doesn't see your back up lights for instance if you replace those with cheapos. The cheap led bulbs have awful viewing angles.

Don't say I didn't warn you!


I believe you. I'll experiment with cheap smd leds on the front turn signals and stay with good old incandescent bulbs on the rear. I ordered some 60 count smd leds for 2.50 each. I'll report back.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL
With the 1156/1157 bulbs you MUST use dielectric grease or they will corrode.

It is 1960's tech.
There are 1157s in the front turn signals of one of my Gen 4 Camrys which have been there for 200,0000 miles without grease of any kind. Toyota, it seems was using good quality OEM (US made) bulbs at that time anyway.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Its more than just corrosion. The cheap sockets don't hold the bulb in far enough to get good contact with both rails. The ground doesn't make good connection being sloppy in the bore.

Its just a bad design. So hopefully its less likely the new units will quit working mid drive and cause me to get pulled over by a trigger happy cop.



Funny that those 1157 bulbs look like the P21W bulbs used in my euro diesels for hundreds of thousands of miles and now over three decades.

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Its more than just corrosion. The cheap sockets don't hold the bulb in far enough to get good contact with both rails. The ground doesn't make good connection being sloppy in the bore.

Its just a bad design. So hopefully its less likely the new units will quit working mid drive and cause me to get pulled over by a trigger happy cop.



Funny that those 1157 bulbs look like the P21W bulbs used in my euro diesels for hundreds of thousands of miles and now over three decades.


The vette is 4 decades but I replaced the original sockets probably 20 years ago. I believe the new design (wedge bulb) was come up with. because it needed changing.

 

[JHZR2]

I thought it was to shave pennies!

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I thought it was to shave pennies!


With the push and twist, tolerances are more important. If the contacts lose their bow, your get an intermittent connection. The wedge is simple. Less to go wrong.

 

[turtlevette]

I bought 7443 sockets by mistake. How do those perform vs 3157

Is there a brighter version of the 7443

 

[turtlevette]

I just compared the 7443 with the 1157 socket. They don't match so It won't fit the housing. I messed up.

I'll buy the remaining 3157 sockets at az.