oil/filter search for GM 2.9L Atlas motor

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As a brief history I have summited oil reports since 2005, so I am somewhat familiar with the site… here is my question … I just purchased a 2012 Colorado with a 2.9L and only 23k miles, but this one has the dreaded timing chain rattle on startup. It only last 2-3 seconds and from all the info I could gather on the i-net, its just an annoyance.it has the acdelco dexos1 and ac filter now. With that said, how do I go about finding a better oil for my engine to possibly help quiet it down. No additives, just a quality full synthetic oil. Is it trial and error with brand X, then Y, etc. ? Any insight on where to start is greatly appreciated. thanks, (mods please move if in the wrong section)
 
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The Fram Tough Guards are some of the best filters for holding oil when shutdown since they use a combination of fiber end disc with silicone anti drain back valve which seals very well.

For oil I would look at Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 since it's got extra ZDDP and other goodies like Boron and moly.
 
Maybe just the tensioner problem, replacement?

You could try going up a thickness grade, and you'll find the oils that say LL-01 on the back are among the best, highest performing synthetics in the world, some used in racing quite a bit. And cheap at walmart. M1 0w-40 or Castrol 0w-40 in the 5 quart jugs.

Like mentioned already, any oil filter with a silicon ADBV is usually an indicator of some quality. Fram Ultra or ToughGuard are good.
 
yes, should be under the 5/100 powertrain and hopefully the tensioner. only issue is the earliest opening is August 11th. There aren’t enough Chevy dealers to support the amount of people that have moved into the Lafayette and surrounding areas in the past few years. i have read it could be oil prime related and should not harm the engine itself. for now just a filter change and top off with AcDelco oil. Huge thanks for the Fram suggestion
 
just a quick update.i've run the Fram TG3506 for the past week and it has helped with the duration (lenght of time) but only marginal, so it was worth the try.next step is the dealer.
 
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Dealer confirmed my suspensions, its oil not priming the exhaust actuator fast enough to open the valves (or something close to that explination). Because of age, not mileage, its covered under the powertrain but only until Oct. 2016. I’ve decided to wait until cooler Spring weather of next year to have the work done. Still under warranty I’ll stay with the 5w-30, but switch to a full Synthetic and Fram Ultra and see how it goes.
 
Originally Posted By: NewC-05
As a brief history I have summited oil reports since 2005, so I am somewhat familiar with the site… here is my question … I just purchased a 2012 Colorado with a 2.9L and only 23k miles, but this one has the dreaded timing chain rattle on startup. It only last 2-3 seconds and from all the info I could gather on the i-net, its just an annoyance.it has the acdelco dexos1 and ac filter now. With that said, how do I go about finding a better oil for my engine to possibly help quiet it down. No additives, just a quality full synthetic oil. Is it trial and error with brand X, then Y, etc. ? Any insight on where to start is greatly appreciated. thanks, (mods please move if in the wrong section)


Hi NewC-05 - Instead of looking for other people’s trial and error stories, why not test out the product for yourself? We’d like to offer you the opportunity to test out some of our new offerings in the Pennzoil Synthetics line up. It’d be as easy as use sending you some samples to use in your 2012 Colorado, sending in the used oil and we’ll provide you with results on the oil’s performance from an independent testing facility. If you’re interested, send us your contact information and we can get you enrolled in the program. – The Pennzoil Team
 
I also own a 2.9L Atlas in my 07 GMC Canyon. I run either Amsoil or Mobil 1 and either a Fram Ultra or an Amsoil oil filter on it. Both Mobil and Amsoil have been in the synthetics business for a very long time and they are the best in the business. I have been running synthetics for over 20 years and there is no looking back to conventional oils for me. Simply the best, they don't break down/separate in the cold, they pump when conventional oil won't, they lubricate the engine sooner, and they cling to metal parts better. The synthetics will flow faster and will help you quiet down that noise.

And if your not hanging out on 355nation and coloradofans forums you should check them out. Simply a wealth of info.

I had a AC Delco filter on the truck when I bought it and the noise was much more noticeable then. Not sure if it is the change in oil and the filter that helped, but the startup noise is hardly noticeable now on first startup after sitting over night. Some have pointed the finger at the drain back valve in the filter and not holding the oil leading to more noise. I don't know about that since the AC-Delco filter is known to be a decent filter for conventional oil. Whatever the case I ran an engine flush, changed the oil and filter and it is much quieter now. Our trucks are prone to oil flow issues due to the camshaft solenoid getting plugged and the screens coming off. It is a 10 minute job to pop out that solenoid and check it to see if the screens are present or you see any signs of obstruction. Then from there keep an eye on it! If you do have to replace it make sure to use the AC-Delco part as the Dorman and others have been hit or miss on reliability.
 
Originally Posted By: NewC-05
Dealer confirmed my suspensions, its oil not priming the exhaust actuator fast enough to open the valves (or something close to that explination). Because of age, not mileage, its covered under the powertrain but only until Oct. 2016. I’ve decided to wait until cooler Spring weather of next year to have the work done. Still under warranty I’ll stay with the 5w-30, but switch to a full Synthetic and Fram Ultra and see how it goes.


Why are you waiting?
crazy2.gif
If they are willing to do it now then have it done before any other problems crop up as a result. Never walk away from warranty work.

I mean absolutely no offense by this but it makes no sense to me whatsoever to wait. You have a defined problem, the dealer acknowledges it and is willing to fix it under warranty, so waiting for next spring and cooler weather makes no sense. Get it fixed asap.

If something happens and it causes other problems don't be surprised if you run into hassles and being asked why you waited and didn't get it fixed when it was originally diagnosed. They(GM) could reasonably say we were willing to fix problem X last year but the owner wouldn't do it then and because of that problem Y and Z cropped up and thus we don't feel we have to fix it.

Wait 8+ months at your own risk.
 
update ... I was actually going to bring it in next month, but this dealer crawfished on their word. i went in last week to clarify the paperwork that showed "start up rattle and very low and slow acceleration". repair code 200 engine parts/7164 labor. there was no documented diagnosis or suggested repair or anything noted saying it was the actuator, only the verbal explination thru the service advisor.(I’m guessing a loop hole here for GM). They would not correct the paperwork showing other wise and further more stated I’m over my emissions warranty anyway @ 24k??? so off to another more reputable dealership if there is one …
 
Originally Posted By: NewC-05
update ... I was actually going to bring it in next month, but this dealer crawfished on their word. i went in last week to clarify the paperwork that showed "start up rattle and very low and slow acceleration". repair code 200 engine parts/7164 labor. there was no documented diagnosis or suggested repair or anything noted saying it was the actuator, only the verbal explination thru the service advisor.(I’m guessing a loop hole here for GM). They would not correct the paperwork showing other wise and further more stated I’m over my emissions warranty anyway @ 24k??? so off to another more reputable dealership if there is one …



Now that sounds more like the GM that I knew before I decided to never buy another...
 
Originally Posted By: NewC-05
update ... I was actually going to bring it in next month, but this dealer crawfished on their word. i went in last week to clarify the paperwork that showed "start up rattle and very low and slow acceleration". repair code 200 engine parts/7164 labor. there was no documented diagnosis or suggested repair or anything noted saying it was the actuator, only the verbal explination thru the service advisor.(I’m guessing a loop hole here for GM). They would not correct the paperwork showing other wise and further more stated I’m over my emissions warranty anyway @ 24k??? so off to another more reputable dealership if there is one …


Should be a 5/100K warranty for powertrain/emissions related stuff. What is the in service date of the vehicle? It might still be under the 3/36K bumper to bumper warranty.

Not being a jerk but this is exactly why I said never walk away when they are willing to fix something. You should have left it there and had them do it then.
 
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Originally Posted By: Longsnowsm
I also own a 2.9L Atlas in my 07 GMC Canyon. I run either Amsoil or Mobil 1 and either a Fram Ultra or an Amsoil oil filter on it. Both Mobil and Amsoil have been in the synthetics business for a very long time and they are the best in the business.
....
Your choice of oil filters is about the best oil filters I've ever seen, and add Royal Purple, Purolator Synthetic oil filters, and Microgreen oil filters to that list too. Of them all, I prefer Fram Ultra because it filters down to 5 microns 80% efficiently, outstanding.
Your use of the phrase "are the best" with oils is stuck in the past though. While Mobil1 Extended Perf (and their 0w-40) and Amsoil Sig Series are great, the current competition from SOPUS (Pennz Ultra from GTL), Castrol's Edge Extended Performance gold jugs, Castrol Edge black jug 0w-40, Kendall GT-1 full syn, and then Motul & Total Quartz majority PAO/POE basestock oils means its hard to use the "are the best" phrase anymore.
 
NHHEMI, when i changed my mind the following week i couldn't understand why the dealer crawfished, well ... months later found out that with no DIC code (P0017) they will not address the issue, wish they would have stated that from the very beginning ... so that brings me to present day and 7k miles later and not much has changed. my next step is to make sure oil pump/passages are clean. I switched from PUP to PYB 5w-30 and would like to add/substitute a cleaner like MMO. Or should I stick with only PUP. In either case, how short of an OCI should I go? suggestions appreciated thanks,
 
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Originally Posted By: NewC-05
update ... I was actually going to bring it in next month, but this dealer crawfished on their word. i went in last week to clarify the paperwork that showed "start up rattle and very low and slow acceleration". repair code 200 engine parts/7164 labor. there was no documented diagnosis or suggested repair or anything noted saying it was the actuator, only the verbal explination thru the service advisor.(I’m guessing a loop hole here for GM). They would not correct the paperwork showing other wise and further more stated I’m over my emissions warranty anyway @ 24k??? so off to another more reputable dealership if there is one …


I would have had the dealership fix it the second they agreed it was an issue. Walked home if I had too haha
 
Finally brought the truck in to my normal Chevy dealer for the startup rattle. Gave the keys and a USB with about 10 recent sound clips to the service advisor. There was no code present, just noise. After a week of diagnosis, they did an oil change and replaced the camshaft position actuator 12589782 (sprocket under the valve cover). Picked up the truck and before getting out the parking lot the check engine light came on, which I thought was kinda funny considering it didn’t go in with one. In the end, they determined it was a faulty (new) actuator. I’m at 34k and have a 100k powertrain until Oct. 2016. So far my dealership has been awesome to deal with and props to the mechanic that did the work you can hardly tell the engine was messed with.

“33738 exhaust cam actuator not latching code P0017 4065090 + ET 2.5 7.10 started unit cold & had rattle noise & setting code P0017. Removed valve cover, front cover & engine pan to check proper camshaft timing asper SI. Timing was correct. called TAC and was advised to snapshot of actuator data when cold start. Timing indicated 51* off commanded position which set code & rattle. replaced exhaust camshaft actuator. ET was used to verify correct cam chain timing. Road tested, code no longer present.”
 
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