Plan 'B' for bleeders when Blaster and time fail?

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Originally Posted By: Lubener
A six point socket could round off.


Having just gone through this, I fail to see the advantage of a 6 point line wrench (I assume you mean a flare wrench) over a 6 point socket, as far as not rounding something off. They're both 6 points.

Of course, I also apparently thought that 14 year old brake fluid could come out of an 11 year old vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: sdan27
Loosen the banjo bolt that holds the brake line on? I've bled my brakes that way when I couldn't get the bleeder loose and it worked just fine.


Me too. Depending on your setup you might have to remove the caliper and lay it flat so the banjo fitting is "up top".
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
You may have to repeat the cycle a few times, be careful not to heat the bleeder nipple part for if it loses it's temper (hardness), you are going to strip it before snapping it into 2.

Disregard this advice. There is no way that bleeder screws are made of heat treated tool steel. I've broken them before; pretty sure they're just regular low carbon steel. Low carbon steel is not heat treated; there is no "temper" to lose there.
 
I don't know what you have for tools but a tool like this works well with an air hammer.


http://www.amazon.com/BrakeQuip-Bleeder-...eder+screw+tool

http://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-40...NTGK4K4CD276H3C

A few other things yu can try are using a deep socket (a chepo) big enough to over the bleeder and sit on the caliper around the bleeder.
Use plenty of Kroil, blaster,etc and hit it repeatedly for about 5 min using good sized hits (don't beat the [censored] out it it just hit it).

Pin the bleed screw with an cheap drill bit that fits snug but can still be hammered in, use the chuck end in the screw. Put the dril bit in a vice and break the twist part off then bang it in. This will increase the strength of the hollow screw a lot.

Put a wrench on the screw a 6 point wrench is best if you have one) then give the wrench a good quick sharp rap with a hammer. It will come loose. Replace the bleeder.
When bleed screws break the tend to cave in slightly before snapping, pinning the screw helps prevents this.
 
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Originally Posted By: Lubener
You want a good line wrench(not Harbor Freight stuff) to break loose.Tapping the wrench with a hammer is better than just using your muscle. it. A six point socket could round off. Worse case it will snap off and you will lose your core value.
why do you need line wrench to loosen the bleeder? Am I missing something or you had a senior moment here?


To lessen the possiblity of rounding it off...A common sense moment..Try it.
Now I *know* you have no idea what you are talking about. The line wrench is needed where a regular box-end wrench or a socket *can not* be used. In case you had no idea, a box-end wrench is *far superior* than a line wrench even it was a Snap On line wrench in *this application*.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Originally Posted By: Lubener
You want a good line wrench(not Harbor Freight stuff) to break loose.Tapping the wrench with a hammer is better than just using your muscle. it. A six point socket could round off. Worse case it will snap off and you will lose your core value.
why do you need line wrench to loosen the bleeder? Am I missing something or you had a senior moment here?


^^^Is this also called a 'Crescent' or adjustable wrench??
Or do you mean a line fitting wrench, as suggested above?
 
No, the line wrench looks like a boxend wrench with a slot cut in it to accept a fuel/brake/transmission line.

A flare wrench is what we call em.
 
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Originally Posted By: cjcride
No, the line wrench looks like a boxend wrench with a slot cut in it to accept a fuel/brake/transmission line.

A flare wrench is what we call em.


OK, flare wrench is what I call that as well.

NEVER heard them called a "line wrench" before.
 
But you don't need a flare wrench for the bleeder screws, only the hydraulic line. I have a small 8mm 6-point box end wrench I use for bleeder screws. That won't slip or round them off.
 
If a "line wrench" is a flare nut wrench, why does Vikas call for using it on a bleeder screw? I use a 6-point socket on mine to initially break them loose. The only reason to use a flare nut/line wrench is for something like a brake line that has a hose or tubing coming out of it, because it's better than just an open end wrench.
 
That was my argument and I tried to gently tell him about it but he went full retard on me :-(

Talking about "going full retard", the Robinair automotive A/C machine pressure gauge is marked with "retard" at the end of the scale! I wonder where the original expression came from.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
That was my argument and I tried to gently tell him about it but he went full retard on me :-(

Talking about "going full retard", the Robinair automotive A/C machine pressure gauge is marked with "retard" at the end of the scale! I wonder where the original expression came from.


Vikas, I think you need to take a hard look at yourself for making stupid comments regarding someone with a disability.Your version of "gently" telling is saying they are having a senior moment. You are an imbecile.
 
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