OEM Corolla drive shafts, Toyota vs Saginaw

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Was looking at OEM drive shafts to see if it gets rid of a highway vibration. Based on everyone I heard from I'd stay away from aftermarket, and since it is already 235k and has been in an accident I'd just replace them instead of reboot (not too sure about junkyard pulled OEM quality and there's no OEM reman on this one).

Toyota seems to have 2 vendor: Toyota or Saginaw. I heard that they are internally different but interchangable if you are not replacing just part of the shaft (i.e. the joint).

http://www.oemtoyotapartsgroup.com/a/Toy...302-151430.html

Toyota one is from $250-511
Saginaw one is around $183-440

Are they pretty much interchangeable? Why are there so many parts?
 
I recommend you give these guys a call. They may have your CV axles in on a shelf. If your axles are servicable, they'll rebuild them.

I send in both my cv axles on my Solara in for a full reman. as I wanted to stay OEM. This is a great option compared to new ones from the dealer.

http://www.cvjaxles.com/

4101 Brighton Blvd.
Denver, CO 80216

Toll Free: 1-800-292-2953(AXLE)
Local: 303-297-2448
 
I have rebuilt and replaced a fair number of 1/2 axles over the years.

The very Last thing I would do is replace an entire 1/2 axle to remove an unknown "highway vibration."

So many other more likely causes, including the (vague) prior accident that you mention. For really good advice it would be helpful to discuss that, and what you've done to address the (how bad?) vibration before this radical axle-ectomy?
 
The background story:

The car have been having some highway vibration in the past, I'd say in the last 10 years it was having mild vibration that was due to tires. You would notice immediate improvement when you get new tires, and it gradually got worse as the tire wears down. The wheels were always rotated regularly, around every 7.5k miles in cross / front back / left right.

The current tires on it are General Altimax RT, 2 2 years old and 2 1 year old (1 due to nail at the shoulder and 1 because mom hit a curb that she didn't see at a turn (15mph) and destroyed the sidewall of the tire.

Prior accident history:

1) 96, fender bender on the right, mirror is repainted and fender replaced. Car was touched by a merging car on highway.

2) 02, fender bender, front bumper hit car in front, replaced bumper energy absorber, radiator support, headlights, and AC condensor (it bent and rubbed against radiator till it leak).

Left fender rattle when idle in D, mechanics found 2 bad engine mounts (I think it is left and front, but forgot) and replaced them, no more vibration.

Struts replaced due to carpool wear and tear (4 people all the time)

3) 09, mom hit the gas station steel / concrete beam, fender bent and I can feel the car was out of alignment, camber kit installed on right front.

4) 11, mom got hit when lane change on the right by another car passing from the right. Both front wheels' studs threads got damaged, the left wheel bearing whine and replaced, the car is way out of alignment, camber kit installed on the left front. The right front door got so dented we replaced it with a junkyard door, and have to bent it slightly so it will seal to the car, most likely the frame is a bit bent.

New tires

5) 14, mom hit an intersection island curb when doing a left turn, blewing the right front tire but seems to have no other damage. I can feel the car is out of alignment again but didn't bring it in to be aligned.



I also noticed some white paint like residue on the firewall that has been there for a long time, like at least 10 years. I didn't pay attention to it but recently I started to realize it is actually at the inner CV joint of the right CV shaft. I suspect there may have been a slow leak of grease or somehow a white fluid got on it and flung out. It doesn't feel greasy like the black grease I saw on my other cars' torn CV boot, but more like a dried up home paint.
 
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The highway vibration is noticeable, I'd say it feels like a steering wheel vibration as well as cabin shaking, at around 70mph. It is tiring for long drive but not something unbearable that I would drive the car because of that.

I figure since the car is 235k miles, shafts are probably due anyways.
 
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After so many intimate encounters with curbs I would be looking for bent wheels first. Confirm other front end components are tight... tie rod ends, balljoints...

After confirming the wheels are true, I would confirm the tires are round as well (replace or have shaved/trued to make round)

Roadforce balance the tires at a shop that knows how to use the machine and is willing to index the tires if prompted by the machine.

You could test for drivetrain balance by securely placing car on lift or stands and bringing the drivetrain up to speed with the wheels off. Just snug the lugnuts back on after removing wheels so the brake rotors don't flop around and hang up. I really doubt it is an axle though.
 
Originally Posted By: AndyinAL
After so many intimate encounters with curbs I would be looking for bent wheels first. Confirm other front end components are tight... tie rod ends, balljoints...

After confirming the wheels are true, I would confirm the tires are round as well (replace or have shaved/trued to make round)

Roadforce balance the tires at a shop that knows how to use the machine and is willing to index the tires if prompted by the machine.

You could test for drivetrain balance by securely placing car on lift or stands and bringing the drivetrain up to speed with the wheels off. Just snug the lugnuts back on after removing wheels so the brake rotors don't flop around and hang up. I really doubt it is an axle though.



Mom just hit the curb again today while doing a U turn.....

How much do you think the inspection / straightening up bent wheel, roadforce balance / remount tire, drivetrain balance cost in labor hour?
 
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