Best oil for long term storage (car, not oil)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
1,548
Location
Brittany / Canada
Hi guys,

I am (sadly) going to be transferred abroad for some time (at least 8 months, but more probably 1 year+), and won't be able to use the cars in my sig except the Colt for that amount of time.

So they will stay unused for quite some time and I was wondering if some oil could make a difference, like some thick ester based oil, or if it won't.

I plan to do an OC when leaving, along with changing all fluids (except maybe gearbox oil since their OC was fairly recent), and cars will be stored in a garage.

Thanks for opinion
smile.gif
 
Mineral oil is the best storage oil as a rule, it adheres tenaciously. Esters break down and oxidize badly so avoid them.

If you do an oil change before leaving make sure you get the engine oil up to full operating temp so that the heat activated additives all adhere properly.
 
Last edited:
Never had any issues with motor oil in storage. Proper use of stabil and fog the cylinders as well. Don't forget to max out.the tire pressure or put on blocks.
 
Perhaps disconnect or even remove or even sell the batteries.
I read once that long 'unuse' will kill a battery.
I don't know if that's true but a battery I let sit for 5 months wouldn't hold a charge. Kira
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Perhaps disconnect or even remove or even sell the batteries.
I read once that long 'unuse' will kill a battery.
I don't know if that's true but a battery I let sit for 5 months wouldn't hold a charge. Kira
Once modern batteries are discharged flat they often lose their ability to take a full charge and the leakage rate goes up.
 
Remove battery and store it in a garage. Don't change any fluids before it's a waste of money. Change it when you return. It would be perfect if you could raise cars so that tyres don't get flat spots.
 
Cars will be raised to avoid flat tyres, batteries will be disconnected for sure
smile.gif

So no fluids change before (they are all recent BTW)?
Nothing special to prevent oxidation in cylinders of gasoline models? Should I pour some oil directly in cylinders or not?

Looks like I was worrying for nothing
wink.gif
 
Some will say to not raise the vehicle. Unloading the suspension may be detrimental. Personally, I'd change the oil and mount a battery maintainer. I'd also add a few extra pounds to the tires. Flatspotting isn't a big concern unless you're running bias ply tires, somehow.
wink.gif
 
I can also raise the cars just a bit, to ease the load on the tyres just in case?
OC with HDEO oil like Shell Rimula is fine? It is quite cheap here.

I can't mount a battery maintainer, there is no electricity in the garage
frown.gif
 
I never raise the vehicles; increasing the pressure is more than enough, and I don't always even do that. An HDEO would be just fine. With no electricity in the garage, disconnecting it and taking it into a climate controlled area can help; heck, a maintainer can be used if it can be brought inside.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Some will say to not raise the vehicle. Unloading the suspension may be detrimental.
wink.gif



What is stated above is exactly what I was told by Bilstein. They said left unloaded the seals could be damaged.
 
Originally Posted By: ron in sc
Originally Posted By: Garak
Some will say to not raise the vehicle. Unloading the suspension may be detrimental.
wink.gif



What is stated above is exactly what I was told by Bilstein. They said left unloaded the seals could be damaged.



Are we talking shocks, springs, struts OR arms, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, bushings, etc?
 
You have tbn depletion with an engine when sitting in storage from the moisture contamination in the ambient air. Oil with some mileage on it, will have contamination you don't want sitting in the engine in long term storage unless the oil contains anti rust additives such as classic hot rod oil usually does.

Some people run a cam guard additive for rust prevention in engines with little use.
The mineral hdeo argument has validation. You don't want to risk crank and cam journal rust pitting with an engine you care about.
 
The only HDEO I can find easily (and cheap) here is Shell Rimula R6M, but it is a synthetic oil.

I can have access to many euro oils, but for the moment I've never seen mineral HDEO. I also never encountered anti rust additive, unfortunately, but maybe you can give me some examples?
 
I wouldn't panic too much chap, a year is not that long.

Depending on the conditions you're storing the car in the standard recommended grade in the manual will be absolutely fine.

I had a quick look on my data system

Fiat recommend a 10w40 with ACEA A3 for the Barchetta, a 10w40 ACEA B3/ API CF for the Marea and Smart car a 10w40 229.1 as an option (if shes coming with you). If you really wanted to change the oil before you went you could change the oil on all three cars for a 10w40 A3/B4 229.1 oil (like Shell Helix HX7 10w-40 here in England).

My mate had the Shell Helix HX7 10w40 in his Fiat Coupe 2.0 20v, it sat outside for over 2 years (in England which is wet, humid and cold most of the year). I got a new battery, started it, the hydraulic lifters were tapping away, let it idle until the oil warmed up and the tapping disappeared, absolutely fine with no engine damage.

All oils have anti corrosion additives that will stop it from rusting but a certain amount of mineral oil will be better than a full synthetic. It is a known phenomenon in 2 stroke microlite engines that semi synthetic oils are protecting the engines from corrosion better than the fully synthetic 2 stroke oils. If you really wanted to change the oil go for the above, if not just switch em off and change the oil when you get back.
 
Air con seals will dry out if the air con is not used on a regular basis.

Not sure what regular period should be adopted for long term storage.

Running the vehicle for 30-45 mins once a month may need to part of the storage program.

Not sure why BITOG worries about engine oil alone when there are many other factors to be taken into account.
 
Last edited:
Thank you both for your comments.

I've found a better storage perspective, I'll take Marea with me, Colt will be left at my parent's, my mom will be using it (city driving and lots of highway, hopefully I won't have to replace clutch when I return, lol!).

It is cheaper for me to take Marea rather than Colt (6HP vs 9HP, insurance wise...), it's a much less fun car but it will do.

Smart will be left at my GF's parents. Don't know yet how/if they'll be using it. They are not the "car pampering style" (they drive a Fiat 500 1,2L in which the dealer put C3 oil, didn't want to believe me when I said maybe there were better oils out there for it, never change/check spark plugs in 120000Km, etc). It is the only car with working AC so I'll ask them regularly to run the car with AC on. It has 5W50 oil in it now, but I think I'll put Mobil 1 0W40 (I have some in my stash), considering their driving habits...revving the motor when cold, etc...

Barchetta will be left alone in the dark in a garage. I've found worn out tyres for it so I won't rise it (so I'll use "good" tyres for the Marea). If you say that semi-synth oil is better, I have 10L of Helix HX7 10W40 on hand. Thanks BTW for the Fiat coupé experience return, I'm much more confident in leaving it now
smile.gif

Not related and off topic, but I will also have to replace the coils on it (already ordered them, not cheap
frown.gif
) and the rear left brake caliper which is leaking (finding the right part was tricky).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top