HGMO 0w-20: 6,243 miles: '11 CRV

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Here is the latest run from our '11 Honda CRV. 95% city/5% Hwy, mostly short in-town trips using HGMO 0w-20 'full synthetic' and OEM filter. 1/2 quart makeup oil. Blackstone assumed the jump in titanium was from me using a different oil for the 1/2 quart makeup--one that contained titanium. The 1/2 quart makeup was the 1/2 quart that remained after the 4.5 quart oil change. They don't think the Honda K24 engine has titanium in it so no clue where this is coming from.

I replaced with M1 AFE 0w-20 and M1 oil filter. The M1 is readily available and there was a nice deal going if you buy the M1 oil and filter together.
Blackstone thinks I should try 8,000 miles with the HGMO

Question for the forum:
What are thoughts on running the M1 AFE for 8-10,000 miles? Remember it's mostly city miles; I would like to try to go longer though.

Code:


Miles on oil 6,243 6,043 4,553 6,185 5,942 Universal

Miles on unit 48,876 42,631 36,588 32,035 25,850 Averages

Sample date 7/5/2015 10/13/14 04/07/14 10/25/13 04/08/2013

Make up oil added 0.5 qt 0 0 0 0

OIL TYPE HG 0w-20 HG 0w-20 HG 0w-20 HG 0w-20 HG 0w-20



Aluminum 4 3 4 4 4 4

Chromium 0 0 1 0 0 0

Iron 6 5 6 6 9 9

Copper 1 1 1 2 2 2

Lead 1 0 0 0 1 1

Tin 0 0 0 0 0 1

Molybdenum 17 17 22 70 42 74

Nickel 0 0 0 0 0 0

Manganese 0 0 0 0 0 1

Silver 0 0 0 0 0 0

Titanium 9 0 0 2 0 1

Potassium 1 0 1 1 1 3

Boron 54 40 62 44 4 47

Silicon 23 24 17 25 16 13

Sodium 5 6 8 0 7 47

Calcium 2256 2123 2000 2050 2378 2087

Magnesium 9 10 8 12 16 188

Phosphorus 662 642 675 637 691 689

Zinc 753 727 749 692 854 810

Barium 0 0 0 0 0 0







SUS Viscosity@210F 47.7 48.9 46.8 49.2 49.4

cSt Viscosity@100C 6.56 6.93 6.28 7.02 7.09

Flashpoint 380 365 355 340 355

Fuel % TR 1.0 1.5 2.3 1.5

Antifreeze % 0.0 0.0 0 0.0 0.0

Water % 0.0 0.0 0 0.0 0.0

Insolubles % 0.2 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.4

TBN 2.0 2.3 2.1 1.7

TAN
 
HGMO is about as boring as it comes. Yet, this UOA is outstanding. But then again, it's a Honda 4 cylinder. You could run this thing on 3-in-1 oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Cardiobuck
Here is the latest run from our '11 Honda CRV. 95% city/5% Hwy, .... They don't think the Honda K24 engine has titanium in it so no clue where this is coming from.


HGMO might be using a little titanium now (from Afton or similar source), as Castrol has backed their's down to about that level that you just saw. (Kendall runs a lot of titanium still, like 90 ppm.)

Originally Posted By: Cardiobuck
Question for the forum: What are thoughts on running the M1 AFE for 8-10,000 miles? Remember it's mostly city miles; I would like to try to go longer though.

No, to go that long, I'd try M1 Extended Performance, not the AFE one. Your TBN was low enough that I'd stop it there. Maybe M1 EP or Castrol gold bottle EP would go further, or Amsoil SS of course too.
 
At what % was your MM when you changed the oil?
How much time will it takes you to make it to 8k miles?
Would you have to add another 1/2 quart to get to 8k miles?

Do the math and see if that makes sense to you.

I believe in Ohio, it is better to change oil in summer than in winter, right ? :). If you can do it a once a year OCI, you can decide to make the change when it is easier for you.
 
The wear numbers do look good, but the oil has sheared pretty badly (0w-20s typically start with a 100C cSt in the 8.2-8.8 range) and the TBN at 2.0 is getting close to expiration. So I wouldn't run this combination any longer.

You may want to have a UOA of the Mobil1 fill to see if it does any better. It would also be interesting to see if the M1 oil filter reduces insolubles (though these don't look bad at all ) - Honda OEM filters have reputation for low efficiency, maybe to survive the 2 oil change life recommended by the manufacturer.
 
Ah, another K24 with evidence of excessive shearing on 0w20...

Your wear metals look great though, and I would recommend you keep the same OCIs on the AFE oil.

What % was your OLM when you changed?
 
Originally Posted By: wi11iam
Ah, another K24 with evidence of excessive shearing on 0w20...

Your wear metals look great though, and I would recommend you keep the same OCIs on the AFE oil.

What % was your OLM when you changed?


Not sure what the virgin flash point is on this oil but there appears to be signs of fuel dilution as well.
 
Originally Posted By: Pesca
At what % was your MM when you changed the oil?
How much time will it takes you to make it to 8k miles?
Would you have to add another 1/2 quart to get to 8k miles?


MM was at 15%
By seeking 10,000 mile OCI I am essentially shooting for once yearly oil changes.
Don't think I would have to add oil, the 1/2 quart that I added brought the oil to the max fill line, it was certainly not essential for safe operation.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL

Not sure what the virgin flash point is on this oil but there appears to be signs of fuel dilution as well.


Virgin flash point for this oil is 425. I was surprised at how high the flash point in this sample is. I accept fuel as a byproduct of the cars use pattern.
Before I went with the M1 AFE I looked around for oils that were thought to contend better with fuel dilution. I never got anywhere.
 
I would go for the EP M1 as well. 5w-20 if there is an M1 EP in 5w20 I like thick oils.
grin.gif
 
Good thing you followed the MM and didn't try to go 10k miles with 95% city driving. This oil held up very well considering how little calcium it has, but has reached the end of its life. Seems like Honda's MM is well calibrated.

I wouldn't blindly run M1 for 10K miles though, need some UOAs before extending intervals. If you can get M1 for cheaper than HGMO or TGMO then go for it.
 
my wife has a 2010 crv and does mostly city driving 7-9 miles back and forth to work. i forgot to take a sample of the 0w20 m1 afe ive been using this past weekend i have been using the afe the past few oil changes, but me i change it out at 5k miles regardless of the MM. i get zero burning with the oil and under the valve cover is amazingly clean!
 
Great uoa data. Good engine too. What oil filter brand/PN?

With TBN at 2, I would babystep 1k at a time. Take the AFE to 7.5k.

Try the Mobil1 EP 0w20 for a comparative 7.5k run.

Might need Amsoil, Redline, MPT or other EP oil for a 10k run.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...etic-motor-oil/
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=124&pcid=21
http://mptindustries.com/mpt_products/automotive.htm

or tbn booster:
http://www.oilextreme.com/oil1.html
http://www.hotshotsecret.com/shop/tbn-booster/
http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_2516.html

Topping off oil consumption with a high tbn oil might get you to that yearly point too. 5w40's like M1 TDT, Rotella T6, and Delo 400...might be a good top off choice.
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
What oil filter brand/PN?



Filter was Honda AO2. Have used nothing but Honda AO2 since it rolled off the line. Just now switched to the M1 filter with the current fill.
I think I will follow the advice given here and keep the AFE for the same ~6K interval, do a UOA and go from there. We will see how it compares.
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
HGMO is about as boring as it comes. Yet, this UOA is outstanding. But then again, it's a Honda 4 cylinder. You could run this thing on 3-in-1 oil.


I asked the Honda service tech guy about using 3-in-1 oil in my CRV and he gave me a weird look, I don't know what that's about.
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
With TBN at 2, I would babystep 1k at a time. Take the AFE to 7.5k.
Try the Mobil1 EP 0w20 for a comparative 7.5k run.
Might need Amsoil, Redline, MPT or other EP oil for a 10k run.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...etic-motor-oil/
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=124&pcid=21
http://mptindustries.com/mpt_products/automotive.htm
or tbn booster:
http://www.oilextreme.com/oil1.html
http://www.hotshotsecret.com/shop/tbn-booster/
http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_2516.html
.....


Excellent post! I did not know LiquiM made a tbn booster. Nice company, trusted. Great idea to reduce acids in long OCIs.
 
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