Maxlife ATF Honda Users
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I like max life and used it in a friends 2003 civic.. I since changed it back to Honda fluid. The Honda fluid shifts better and seems to be a better fit.
Just rough mileage estimates....
'06 Odyssey: 0-80k mi on a couple of drop/fills of Honda Z1, 80-140k mi few drop/fills Amsoil, 140-225k mi Maxlife. Traded in van at 225k mi. with original trans still running well.
'09 CRV: 0-30k mi factory fill, 30-135k mi Maxlife. Daughter still driving it with zero problems. Amazing factoid: this CRV, bought new for daughter, has NEVER had a single repair outside of normal wear items. Amazingly reliable vehicle.
'06 Odyssey: 0-80k mi on a couple of drop/fills of Honda Z1, 80-140k mi few drop/fills Amsoil, 140-225k mi Maxlife. Traded in van at 225k mi. with original trans still running well.
'09 CRV: 0-30k mi factory fill, 30-135k mi Maxlife. Daughter still driving it with zero problems. Amazing factoid: this CRV, bought new for daughter, has NEVER had a single repair outside of normal wear items. Amazingly reliable vehicle.
0-18k miles on Z-1, 18k-current (91k miles) on Maxlife ATF. Shifts well, and better than at 18k miles when it shifted like a race transmission.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
can I get any Maxlife ATF users in Honda applications to sound off on what application and how many miles they have with it working fine or on the other hand anyone who tried Maxlife ATF and lost a transmission?
Stick with the dealer DW-1
perhaps if you have a older HONDA that only required ATF-Z1 then you might MIGHT be okay.
but if your Honda AT says ATF-DW1 ONLY then by all means use the DW1 only.
I mean why risk it.
I know you see a whole Gallon of FULL SYN MAXLIFE an its only $16 and you think well its a full syn and you think why not.
Perhaps if it said DW1 approved / tested on the jug.. but it dont.
it says suitable.
Plus it has all them other specs its good for.
ALLISON TRANSMISSION...
Would you buy Allision ATF Fluid and put it in your HONDA AT???
think about it.
can I get any Maxlife ATF users in Honda applications to sound off on what application and how many miles they have with it working fine or on the other hand anyone who tried Maxlife ATF and lost a transmission?
Stick with the dealer DW-1
perhaps if you have a older HONDA that only required ATF-Z1 then you might MIGHT be okay.
but if your Honda AT says ATF-DW1 ONLY then by all means use the DW1 only.
I mean why risk it.
I know you see a whole Gallon of FULL SYN MAXLIFE an its only $16 and you think well its a full syn and you think why not.
Perhaps if it said DW1 approved / tested on the jug.. but it dont.
it says suitable.
Plus it has all them other specs its good for.
ALLISON TRANSMISSION...
Would you buy Allision ATF Fluid and put it in your HONDA AT???
think about it.
good info all thank you. Seeing some of you with 90k plus on it is hard to deny. I want to do a drain and fill ever other oil change 10k. Could I just start with one drain and fill of Maxlife and go from there every other oil change or do I need to do the full 3x drain and fill. My 2005 called for Z1 originally. Im a bit torn on sticking with Dw1. It's not even fully synthetic and honestly in FL hot weather I like the higher burn off temp of a full synthetic. I just wish Dw1 made me feel great about its price. Instead I just feel like its ripping me off. I also see the point about why risk it I'm just not sure.
I have no dog in this fight. I no longer own any Honda's (my daughter now owns the CRV in my last post), and it is unlikely that I will ever own one again. Nothing wrong with them, but I am an empty nester, a country boy, and honda's no longer fit my needs.
I completely understand the statement "why risk it...just use what Honda specifies". But, if we were all to follow that recommendation, then why even have this forum? Isn't a major drive of this forum to ask 'WHY?'. Do we not want to challenge the status quo?
I keep hearing over and over that one is nuts if they stray from Honda ATF. I keep searching for a TECHNICAL reason, but I can never seem to find it. All I hear is anecdotes. Honda transmissions are supposedly 'designed' different and 'require' their own fluid spec. That may very well be correct...but I would like to hear the proof and understanding behind that demand.
Short Story: my '14 Silverado is my first vehicle that has trans fluid temp available on one of its displays. Back in the spring, on a nice ~65degF afternoon, I made a 40mi drive across town. I made a point to watch the trans temp out of curiosity. I noted that it didn;t reach the 190-195 normal operating temp unil mile 38. Since the great majority of trips are less than 38 miles....I began to question the importance of a centipoise or two of viscosity. Even in the July heat wave we are having, it takes at least 15 miles for my trans to reach equilibrium temps of 190-195f. So, other than long trips, WHY is a Cp here or there so critical since our vehicle ATF temps are all over the place?
I undersrtand there are many more variables to consider other than viscosity. Just using that as an example..
No argument intended here. Just want to know the scientific reasons that some substitutes are not wise. Just trying to learn.....same as the OP..
I completely understand the statement "why risk it...just use what Honda specifies". But, if we were all to follow that recommendation, then why even have this forum? Isn't a major drive of this forum to ask 'WHY?'. Do we not want to challenge the status quo?
I keep hearing over and over that one is nuts if they stray from Honda ATF. I keep searching for a TECHNICAL reason, but I can never seem to find it. All I hear is anecdotes. Honda transmissions are supposedly 'designed' different and 'require' their own fluid spec. That may very well be correct...but I would like to hear the proof and understanding behind that demand.
Short Story: my '14 Silverado is my first vehicle that has trans fluid temp available on one of its displays. Back in the spring, on a nice ~65degF afternoon, I made a 40mi drive across town. I made a point to watch the trans temp out of curiosity. I noted that it didn;t reach the 190-195 normal operating temp unil mile 38. Since the great majority of trips are less than 38 miles....I began to question the importance of a centipoise or two of viscosity. Even in the July heat wave we are having, it takes at least 15 miles for my trans to reach equilibrium temps of 190-195f. So, other than long trips, WHY is a Cp here or there so critical since our vehicle ATF temps are all over the place?
I undersrtand there are many more variables to consider other than viscosity. Just using that as an example..
No argument intended here. Just want to know the scientific reasons that some substitutes are not wise. Just trying to learn.....same as the OP..
Buy the DW1 from a dealer and be done with it. Curry Acura in New York used to sell me cases and cases of DW1 for $6 a quart and shipped it to me for free. They now charge a few bucks for shipping (like $5 or so last time I ordered), but are still one of the cheapest, if not the cheapest place to buy DW1 in the country. At that price, using Maxlife is a losing proposition in my mind.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Buy the DW1 from a dealer and be done with it. Curry Acura in New York used to sell me cases and cases of DW1 for $6 a quart and shipped it to me for free. They now charge a few bucks for shipping (like $5 or so last time I ordered), but are still one of the cheapest, if not the cheapest place to buy DW1 in the country. At that price, using Maxlife is a losing proposition in my mind.
They sent me a case for $6.17 per quart and charged $11.11 shipping from New York state to Washington state on 27Apr15. Works for me. Castrol TransMax MVI is like $5.70 a quart at Wal Mart.
Buy the DW1 from a dealer and be done with it. Curry Acura in New York used to sell me cases and cases of DW1 for $6 a quart and shipped it to me for free. They now charge a few bucks for shipping (like $5 or so last time I ordered), but are still one of the cheapest, if not the cheapest place to buy DW1 in the country. At that price, using Maxlife is a losing proposition in my mind.
They sent me a case for $6.17 per quart and charged $11.11 shipping from New York state to Washington state on 27Apr15. Works for me. Castrol TransMax MVI is like $5.70 a quart at Wal Mart.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
Could I just start with one drain and fill of Maxlife and go from there every other oil change or do I need to do the full 3x drain and fill?
I do a simple drain and fill every 18K miles. 2010 Civic. Don't EVER buy SuperTech Mercon V that claims to be Z-1 compatible. It's not. It slips. I did whole fluid replacement to chase that thin [censored] out. Got Castrol TransMax MVI in there now and got scared after the slipping and got some DW-1 for $6.17 a quart.
Could I just start with one drain and fill of Maxlife and go from there every other oil change or do I need to do the full 3x drain and fill?
I do a simple drain and fill every 18K miles. 2010 Civic. Don't EVER buy SuperTech Mercon V that claims to be Z-1 compatible. It's not. It slips. I did whole fluid replacement to chase that thin [censored] out. Got Castrol TransMax MVI in there now and got scared after the slipping and got some DW-1 for $6.17 a quart.
Used it in many hondas and it works well, if you want a cost effective option its maxlife atf.
Between two Hondas, a Civic and a V6 3.0L Accord both spec'd for Z1, best estimate would be ~65k total miles using MaxLife. And only done single d&f's every 25-30k miles.
I've used it before, and would have zero worry that my transmission would fail on that fluid. In fact, the shifts are noticeably firmer with it, so you could make the argument that they'd last longer.
But, the shifts ARE different on MaxLife. Firmer, notchier, not as "clean". I tried it for a few drain/fills on both cars in my signature, and now use DW-1 exclusively in them.
But, the shifts ARE different on MaxLife. Firmer, notchier, not as "clean". I tried it for a few drain/fills on both cars in my signature, and now use DW-1 exclusively in them.
I'm using Maxlife ATF in my wife's 2006 Pilot. It didn't have any changes of the original fluid until about 60k miles. It is at around 82k now and I've done 2 drain and fills over that period using Maxlife ATF. It shifts good and plan to keep using it.
I'm using Maxlife ATF in the '02 Accord.
At 145K, the tranny is showing serious symptoms of the classic problems that these transaxles develop in this generation of Accord, which has nothing to do with the Maxlife.
As Bubbatime pointed out, Curry Acura will sell you a case of DW1 for a real deal price.
I bought a case in September 2013 for around $72.00 shipped.
Interestingly, the Acura branded fluid was around twenty cents cheaper a quart from Curry than was the Honda branded DW1.
At 145K, the tranny is showing serious symptoms of the classic problems that these transaxles develop in this generation of Accord, which has nothing to do with the Maxlife.
As Bubbatime pointed out, Curry Acura will sell you a case of DW1 for a real deal price.
I bought a case in September 2013 for around $72.00 shipped.
Interestingly, the Acura branded fluid was around twenty cents cheaper a quart from Curry than was the Honda branded DW1.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
.....As Bubbatime pointed out, Curry Acura will sell you a case of DW1 for a real deal price.
I bought a case in September 2013 for around $72.00 shipped.
Interestingly, the Acura branded fluid was around twenty cents cheaper a quart from Curry than was the Honda branded DW1.
Curry Acura used to have free shipping with everything too. Those days are now over.
Once you add DW1 (or any part/fluid) to the cart, then go to 'complete' check out, shipping is now added to the cost. Not the deal it once was.
That said, I have used Curry's parts and fluid prices (because shipping costs don't show until final check out page) to negotiate with my local Honda dealer for a price match.
.....As Bubbatime pointed out, Curry Acura will sell you a case of DW1 for a real deal price.
I bought a case in September 2013 for around $72.00 shipped.
Interestingly, the Acura branded fluid was around twenty cents cheaper a quart from Curry than was the Honda branded DW1.
Curry Acura used to have free shipping with everything too. Those days are now over.
Once you add DW1 (or any part/fluid) to the cart, then go to 'complete' check out, shipping is now added to the cost. Not the deal it once was.
That said, I have used Curry's parts and fluid prices (because shipping costs don't show until final check out page) to negotiate with my local Honda dealer for a price match.
Great info about dw1 online. My local honda wanted 15 a qt. thanks. I might just try sticking with dw-1 but I have made the change in the old Toyota Avalon for the last 30k and it's working fine for what it's worth. Thanks everyone for the response. For thoes of you doing drain and fills does every other oil change sound about right?
Originally Posted By: Jake777
.. My local honda wanted 15 a qt....
Say what?
They don't call them stealerships for nothing. Honda suggested retail is ~$8.30/qt. If they wouldn't come to that at a minimum, I'd tell them to pound sand. Even Amazon, rarely the least expensive for Honda fluids is less than that with shipping included.
ebay has some sellers with shipping included qt.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40...w1&_sacat=0
.. My local honda wanted 15 a qt....
Say what?
ebay has some sellers with shipping included qt.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40...w1&_sacat=0
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Originally Posted By: Jake777
.. My local honda wanted 15 a qt....
Say what?
They don't call them stealerships for nothing. Honda suggested retail is ~$8.30/qt. If they wouldn't come to that at a minimum, I'd tell them to pound sand. Even Amazon, rarely the least expensive for Honda fluids is less than that with shipping included.
My local MB dealer wants almost every part above MSRP. One tiny instrument light bulb for my E430 is $10.99, there are about 18-19 bulbs total if I change all bulbs it would costs me $200. I bought a used instrument from eBay for $40, took out the bulbs and replaced 2 burnt out bulbs and have 16-17 spare bulbs.
Do you know how much they want for 1 quart M1 0W40 ? $14.99 for a generic Mobil 1 0W40 quart ! Yes, some MB owners buy oil at dealer and they got hammered.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
.. My local honda wanted 15 a qt....
Say what?
My local MB dealer wants almost every part above MSRP. One tiny instrument light bulb for my E430 is $10.99, there are about 18-19 bulbs total if I change all bulbs it would costs me $200. I bought a used instrument from eBay for $40, took out the bulbs and replaced 2 burnt out bulbs and have 16-17 spare bulbs.
Do you know how much they want for 1 quart M1 0W40 ? $14.99 for a generic Mobil 1 0W40 quart ! Yes, some MB owners buy oil at dealer and they got hammered.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
....Do you know how much they want for 1 quart M1 0W40 ? $14.99 for a generic Mobil 1 0W40 quart ! Yes, some MB owners buy oil at dealer and they got hammered.
As the saying goes, there's a sucker born every minute. But more importantly you wouldn't pay the MB dealer those prices. Neither should the OP pay the Honda dealer an ~80% premium from Honda's MSRP for DW1 which already includes a substantial markup from invoice cost.
Undoubtedly some stealers use highly inflated prices for parts, think at one time it was referred to as matrix pricing. And though the concept of inflated prices is the same, I'd consider MB in a different category/class than Honda. So personally less surprised by a significant MB mark up, no negotiation anecdote.
....Do you know how much they want for 1 quart M1 0W40 ? $14.99 for a generic Mobil 1 0W40 quart ! Yes, some MB owners buy oil at dealer and they got hammered.
As the saying goes, there's a sucker born every minute. But more importantly you wouldn't pay the MB dealer those prices. Neither should the OP pay the Honda dealer an ~80% premium from Honda's MSRP for DW1 which already includes a substantial markup from invoice cost.
Undoubtedly some stealers use highly inflated prices for parts, think at one time it was referred to as matrix pricing. And though the concept of inflated prices is the same, I'd consider MB in a different category/class than Honda. So personally less surprised by a significant MB mark up, no negotiation anecdote.
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