question about oil level

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 14, 2003
Messages
890
Location
USA
I recently purchased a Subaru Impreza. According to the internet
smile.gif
this car is an "oil burner". I checked the oil level yesterday for the first time at 600 miles and it was in the middle of the safe range (Below full and above add).

I wish I had baselined it when new to see if it was at the full line when new, but I did not.

Should I add oil to the full line or check it again next week to see if the level drops from its present location?

I previously had a Forester that required periodic topping of oil during extended drain intervals.
 
I'd top it off to the full mark and monitor from there. Personally, I like 'em full.
 
In the old days of cans of oil they "set the bar" on the dipstick so you could run down to the "add" line, open a quart, throw it in, and you'd be at "full". It was not advised to add before you got to "add", and even sometimes claimed that when it got half a quart down, would stop going any further, due to "magic". Maybe it was fuel dilution starting up, or the volatile parts of the new oil burning off. Maybe politics of "If you can make it to 3000 miles without adding 9/10 of a quart, you don't burn oil."

Now we have reusable caps on our quarts of oil so we can keep half a quart in the trunk. Yet the add/fill line stays the same.
 
For now, keep it in the safe range. After your next oil/filter change, cold after sitting overnight, I would check the oil level to see where it lands. If it doesn't land on the full mark,scribe a mark on your dip stick to indicate your baseline.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
In the old days of cans of oil they "set the bar" on the dipstick so you could run down to the "add" line, open a quart, throw it in, and you'd be at "full". It was not advised to add before you got to "add", and even sometimes claimed that when it got half a quart down, would stop going any further, due to "magic". Maybe it was fuel dilution starting up, or the volatile parts of the new oil burning off. Maybe politics of "If you can make it to 3000 miles without adding 9/10 of a quart, you don't burn oil."

Now we have reusable caps on our quarts of oil so we can keep half a quart in the trunk. Yet the add/fill line stays the same.


Exactaly!
 
add oil, drive hard and forget about most of what on the internet sez.

IMO internet, while serving it's purpose, many a time it's just a rampant echo chamber for the ignornats, arrogants and most important of all: the conspiracy theorists.

There's only 5% or less of important information on the internet these days, the rest is just noise.

Drive and enjoy, top up when necessary, and don't lose sleep over it.

Q.

And yeah: didn't I also mention the "horsefly" effect that has become rampant even on BITOG these days?
 
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
what year subbie? I believe the problem was from 2011-2014


2015
 
I would just check it weekly to see if it drops any.
If it gets to the add mark,add a qt and see where that puts you on the dipstick. This will be your full mark.
 
Check oil level at the same temperature, like cold in the morning, each time. Thermal expansion can artificially look like it gained around a quarter quart or so.
 
Thanks all. I will check the level when cold on flat ground again. If needed, I'll buy a quart of overpriced Subaru 0w20 from the dealer to top off before 1st oil change at 6k miles.

I plan on using Mobil 1 0w20 at 6k intervals (as recommended in owners manual). I will buy the 6 quart package for 27 dollars when Costco has it on sale. That will be enough to change the oil and top off (if needed) between changes.

I'm surprised that Subaru only allows 6k intervals on expensive synthetic. If one follows the severe duty maintenance schedule and pays the dealership 70 dollars for a synthetic oil change, it can be a costly proposition to maintain.
 
If it uses too much oil, I don't see why you couldn't go to using the M1 0w-30 AFE slightly heavier oil. More hydrodynamic lubrication anyway with only a very small loss in MPG.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
In the old days of cans of oil they "set the bar" on the dipstick so you could run down to the "add" line, open a quart, throw it in, and you'd be at "full". It was not advised to add before you got to "add", and even sometimes claimed that when it got half a quart down, would stop going any further, due to "magic". Maybe it was fuel dilution starting up, or the volatile parts of the new oil burning off. Maybe politics of "If you can make it to 3000 miles without adding 9/10 of a quart, you don't burn oil."

Now we have reusable caps on our quarts of oil so we can keep half a quart in the trunk. Yet the add/fill line stays the same.


I've wondered about oil use vs. oil level. It seems to me that if the oil level is higher in the sump, you'd have more oil mist in the crankcase due to crankshaft windage. The oil mist would be drawn out through the PCV system.

This could explain how oil use would drop off as the oil level in the crankcase drops.

Me? I check it cold, once a week (regular checking is important) and keep it between half and full on the dipstick. It's safe to run it to the add mark (the manufacturer doesn't want blown-up motors) but I'm just doing what I'm comfortable with.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
In the old days of cans of oil they "set the bar" on the dipstick so you could run down to the "add" line, open a quart, throw it in, and you'd be at "full". It was not advised to add before you got to "add", and even sometimes claimed that when it got half a quart down, would stop going any further, due to "magic". Maybe it was fuel dilution starting up, or the volatile parts of the new oil burning off. Maybe politics of "If you can make it to 3000 miles without adding 9/10 of a quart, you don't burn oil."

Now we have reusable caps on our quarts of oil so we can keep half a quart in the trunk. Yet the add/fill line stays the same.


interesting. i learned something new today.
 
Too many cars have oil issues. If you are a half pint low, top it off.

Pick a method of checking level. One of my cars can only do a cold engine oil level check. Other is fine with a hot check after a fuel fill up. I verified both after the oil/filter change capacity check vs stated capacity in the manual.

Many dipsticks are not a "quart range" anymore.

No mist to worry about.

Volatility is probably the major cause of initial oil drop.

And, there is no need to use dealer oil. Plenty of really good 0w20's in auto part and department stores.
 
Some vehicles will allow the filter to drain back into the pan after setting over night, oil could be fine on stick and actually be a pint or two low... Even though I use a Motorcraft filter, my beater F-150 has pulled this stunt... (yeah that'll cause sleepless nights for some of BITOG members)

I'll generally check mine cold but do check hot occasionally to be sure it's reading approx same... As far as what the owner manual says, that's fine for those who can't think on their own, a pint or two low isn't going to cause harm..
 
Originally Posted By: Joe1
I checked the oil level yesterday for the first time at 600 miles and it was in the middle of the safe range (Below full and above add).


I'd add a whole quart at that point.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top