A note on the CLR flush....

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Yesterday I did a CLR flush on a client's truck that had been run with straight water long term. Corrosion was so bad that the thermostat was eaten through and fell into pieces, and all of the smaller coolant fittings were completely closed, causing incurable air lock.

I readied a new water pump to go in with the new thermostat, and performed the CLR flush. It was extraordinarily effective, bringing most of the system back to bare uncontaminated metal.

However, the heaviest rust buildup, behind the thermostat and water pump remained partially intact. I also noticed that these rust deposits were now greenish white in color. When I busted them up using a chisel, they were greenish inside and smelled of CLR. All this after rinsing, performing a baking soda flush, and rinsing again.

My advice to anyone doing a CLR flush would be to give both CLR and baking soda ample time to do their parts, and finish with a good lengthy rinse, so nothing is left in the system.

Also, be prepared to get in there and bust stuff up if the engine is loaded up bad with corrosion.
 
Yikes, why can't people run 50/50 antifreeze? It's not a conspiracy! They aren't that special living somewhere otherworldly hot that the extra few percent cooling capacity of straight water would matter. Though they feel like they are. Dangit, Cooter, you cracked the code!
 
Ford Ranger utility truck with the 2.3 4 cylinder and computer controlled thermostat.

The employee he sent to drop it off actually told me, "Yeah right!", after I explained to him that electrolysis occurs even in Florida.

I, myself, prefer coolant for the boil over protection, if nothing else. Once the boiling starts, it all goes downhill rather quickly.
 
Thanks for the valuable info in your post DoubleWasp. I appreciate it and wrote some notes so thank u sir
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
Yikes, why can't people run 50/50 antifreeze? It's not a conspiracy! They aren't that special living somewhere otherworldly hot that the extra few percent cooling capacity of straight water would matter. Though they feel like they are. Dangit, Cooter, you cracked the code!

This word, antifreeze, is the problem for many drivers/owners in California and Florida. Because they think that since the temperature is almost never drop below freezing they don't need antifreeze. If the word "coolant" is used then they may change it every 5-10 years.

I know some owners never changed their coolant for as long as they own their cars up to 20-25 years, and the reservoir is dark brown of rust.
 
Hello, Thanks for the post.
I cleaned a neglected cooling system last Summer and asked here about using CLR.
CLR has a warning against using against aluminum so fellow BITOGers dissuaded me.
I used 2 different commercial coolant flushes and one of vinegar with thorough rinses after each.
NOTE: The vinegar flush yielded heavily blackened rinse water so it did some good too.

I now think CLR could've been used because I rinsed so well. Then again, this neglected system was 13 years old and could've had thin spots. Such is life. Kira
 
I only resorted to CLR because the system was still 1/4" thick with rust after repeated flushes using water and Peak radiator flush. Far as I and the owner were concerned, the engine was trashed anyway, so nothing to lose, really.
 
I was afraid to use clr in my old s10 after doing the intake manifold gasket replace. I used Prestone rad flush and rinsed well. It worked fine and the truck ran normal after.
 
What in the world were they trying to accomplish with straight water? Since you said computer controlled thermostat, that must be a 2.3L Duratec, so it would have come with G-05 from the factory. If it's a 2001 there's a slim chance it came with green, but most likely G-05 came in it. They would have been better off with funky old G-05 than straight water.

It's really not hard to keep a cooling system clean. My 2002 truck has a SPOTLESS cooling system...nothing but clean metal, with no flushes ever and the original water pump. Different engine, but same materials and original coolant as the truck in the OP. Just drain & fills, never even a complete change. Cooling system maintenance is one of the few things most manufacturers put in an easy provision for. On a Ranger you literally need NO tools at all to do a coolant drain and fill unless the radiator drain is clogged.
 
01rangerxl said, "On a Ranger you literally need NO tools at all to do a coolant drain and fill unless the radiator drain is clogged."
Thank goodness for that. I've seen it too and am grateful for the relative ease of cooling system maintenance.
The Hondas in my life, the family's Saabs and my Volvo are all easily laid out. Kira
 
OT: I have a 2.3 Duratech and there is no computer controlled thermostat unless I don't understand where the control is situated.; I'd be interested in hearing more about that.

Thanks for the info re: CLR flushes. As the responses have indicated it is unlikely a native BITOG'r would ever need to do one, except under the circumstances you have described.

This site remains to be a source of great info.
 
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It's not a computer controlled thermostat, but it is only serviced in an assembly with the outlet, at least from the dealer. On some applications, I honestly forget which ones, the sensor comes with the assembly also.
 
Well sometimes the internet is a bad place to get your information. A lot of people on this sight have either no understanding of the chemistry involved or no real understanding about how their vehicles operate take your pick. So in the absence of knowledge or experience they all side with caution to the extreme even when it is not needed.

I will say this all the aluminum and plastic does make cooling systems more fragile now then 20 years ago but they are not made from tin foil or paper yet.

Things like CLR, Lime Away, The Works, Draino etc....are not that concentrated and most of the ingredients in these products where in use in far more concentrated form as coolant flushes not long ago.

Short of a broad spectrum chelating agent only strong acid or alakli is going to quickly remove a lot of deposits. The real problem is that automotive chemical companies do not trust litigation happy idiot with strong products today. Combine that with lighter components made from more reactive alloys and that means dumbed down less effective products.

I can only imagine how many products people in California for instance cannot even buy. They used to be the 4th largest economy in the world.

On top of all of this you also have insane OEM CCI which by itself leads to neglect.
 
01rangerxl, The Rat is a 94 xlt long cab and same running gear as your 94 with 30 K on the odometer. engine runs purty good for 130 k rest/rust of truck could be 330k
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Originally Posted By: andyd
01rangerxl, The Rat is a 94 xlt long cab and same running gear as your 94 with 30 K on the odometer. engine runs purty good for 130 k rest/rust of truck could be 330k
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My '95 Explorer was something like that. 4.0L ran beautifully and never needed top off oil, but the rust took a toll on the body due to over a decade in Pittsburgh and Philadelphia with a total of one application of rust proofing when it was new.

My 1994 Ranger runs purty good too, and also doesn't use any oil at all. Very smooth and routinely gets over 20 MPG (doesn't see much stop & go). Thankfully this one is rust free.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
What in the world were they trying to accomplish with straight water? Since you said computer controlled thermostat, that must be a 2.3L Duratec, so it would have come with G-05 from the factory. If it's a 2001 there's a slim chance it came with green, but most likely G-05 came in it. They would have been better off with funky old G-05 than straight water.

It's really not hard to keep a cooling system clean. My 2002 truck has a SPOTLESS cooling system...nothing but clean metal, with no flushes ever and the original water pump. Different engine, but same materials and original coolant as the truck in the OP. Just drain & fills, never even a complete change. Cooling system maintenance is one of the few things most manufacturers put in an easy provision for. On a Ranger you literally need NO tools at all to do a coolant drain and fill unless the radiator drain is clogged.
The electrolysis is minimised/eliminated with the fresh coolant, as you did.
 
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